Timing Nightmare! Help!!!

CC'S95GT

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Screw the 'by ear' BS. You need a timing light.

Remove #1 plug.
Use something in the plug hole to feel piston top.
Turn crank until you feel piston at TDC, should be 0* on pointer/crank.
Mark the #1 on the distributor halo ring under cap, turn distributor until rotor points to mark.
Remove spout, cap/wires/plug back on, start car.
Use timing light to get 10* BTDC on scale.
Put spout back in.

Funny story, I used a newer timing light that you would set with a dial. I had the dial set to 10*, didn't know you were supposed to set the light to zero. I set the light to 10* and had my timing at 0* for almost 2 seasons before I figured it out. Didn't run bad, just a little hotter. And I guess my headers would glow red on the dyno.

Just trying to get it to idle better without it back firing till the HB can be replaced. A timing light would be useless till the HB is replaced anyway
 

RichV

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Just trying to get it to idle better without it back firing till the HB can be replaced. A timing light would be useless till the HB is replaced anyway

True.

But were all ASSuming it's bad. Which we have no clue, I'd bet chances of it being bad are slim. When a balancer moves, you'll know.
 

CC'S95GT

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True.

But were all ASSuming it's bad. Which we have no clue, I'd bet chances of it being bad are slim. When a balancer moves, you'll know.

agreed. there are other signs. and timing marks are at the bottom.
 

Win

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But if it's a 20 yr old balancer he should replace it regardless especially with a fresh rebuild that most likely will be spinning higher rpms then a stock motor.
 

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