Does anyone know anything about AODE transmissions, Ive seen people talking about bypassing some things and make the tranny work better. What does locking the converter do, what is better non-lock up or lock up. If anyone know anything to make these tranmissions work better post it up.
Tips on AODE transmissions
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94gtstang50
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I threw a shift kit on mine, the response time is still slow when you manually shift it, but there is no more 5 sec hang time between gears.
Jrgunn5150
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Updating the acumulators and removing the springs will work wonder's for your shift's. Exactly how inclined are you to taking your valvebody off and drilling holes in it?
A torque converter convert's torque.... Into yummy cotton candy :2funny: Ok, no, it is a hydraulic coupling, it allows for some slippage when you start off, like a clutch you don't have to work.
I tell people to think about torque converters like two fan's facing each other. If you turn fan #1 on (this will be the engine side from now on) and leave Fan #2 (trans side) off, slowly but surely, fan 2, even though it isn't running, will start to spin, fast and faster, until it is going the same speed as fan 1. The speed where that happens is your stall speed. And just like fans, it is determined by the pitch of, and how close together the blades in your converter are.
People who have swapped in longer duration camshafts, will tend to make power a little higher (or alot higher) in the rpm range. This happens at the expense of low rpm power. So if you have a cam that makes little to no power at 2000 rpm, but you've already hit your converter's stall speed by then, acceleration and driveability will suffer. A swap to a converter with a stall of say, 300 rpm, will allow the engine to move into it's powerband easier, kind of like slipping the clutch moe in a manual car.
Hope that helps, lemme know if you wanna get into the gut's of your trans, because transgo sucks, but I can point you in the right direction if you ain't afraid to drill.
A torque converter convert's torque.... Into yummy cotton candy :2funny: Ok, no, it is a hydraulic coupling, it allows for some slippage when you start off, like a clutch you don't have to work.
I tell people to think about torque converters like two fan's facing each other. If you turn fan #1 on (this will be the engine side from now on) and leave Fan #2 (trans side) off, slowly but surely, fan 2, even though it isn't running, will start to spin, fast and faster, until it is going the same speed as fan 1. The speed where that happens is your stall speed. And just like fans, it is determined by the pitch of, and how close together the blades in your converter are.
People who have swapped in longer duration camshafts, will tend to make power a little higher (or alot higher) in the rpm range. This happens at the expense of low rpm power. So if you have a cam that makes little to no power at 2000 rpm, but you've already hit your converter's stall speed by then, acceleration and driveability will suffer. A swap to a converter with a stall of say, 300 rpm, will allow the engine to move into it's powerband easier, kind of like slipping the clutch moe in a manual car.
Hope that helps, lemme know if you wanna get into the gut's of your trans, because transgo sucks, but I can point you in the right direction if you ain't afraid to drill.
im looking into a b&m transkit and and aftermarket valvebody ..its around $250 nothing fancy really but it says it will hold 1st and 2nd and all the goodies of quick and powerful tire chriping shifts it says lol ...i was curious if i get it ...if i need a shiftkit....sorry to kinda jack the thread but it might help you too
Jrgunn5150
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If you get a premodded valvebody, you won't need a shift kit, all the mods will be in there, and the transkit usually includes new seperator plates and gaskets with new and exciting holes for the fluid to pass through.
J.R. said:
yeah the valvebody is a direct replacement piece it says just remove and replace...that should be all i need ...thanks J.R. i appreciate it ..i will take the 70 i planned for the shiftkit to go towards the trans cooler now...another quick question...i see race trans coolers offered...whats the difference can they handle street driving??
again sorry for derailing the thread
Jrgunn5150
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Lol, funny you should Derail. That's the brand of transcooler I recommend to everyone, you can get one at Summit Racing.
I dunno what a race transcooler is, do you have a link to what you are refering too? It's probably just a big one someone decided they could sell more of if they called it a race cooler, lol.
I dunno what a race transcooler is, do you have a link to what you are refering too? It's probably just a big one someone decided they could sell more of if they called it a race cooler, lol.
Jrgunn5150
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Yeah, that looks like any other tube and fin design to me lol. They work, and work well. I prefer these stacked plate types for the ultimate in cooling efficiency though. You can get one that's like 4x13x3/4 that will fit really nicely behind your bumper cover.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/61908/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/61908/10002/-1
