Torque specs and bolt sizes?

[Jardon]

Hey yall! I been posting quite a lot on here lol. Ive got my clutch ordered for my 1994 GT 5.0L and am looking mainly for torque specs on pressure plate, bell housing to engine, trans to bell housing, shifter bolts, and drive shaft bolts as ive never done a clutch. Thanks for any advice/help

 

[cobrajeff96]

You can derive a valid range of torque specs just by googling it based on bolt size (m6 x 1.0, 3/8-24, etc) and bolt grade (8.8, 10.9, etc.).

For the pressure plate, torque spec doesn't matter too much. What matters is that you torque the bolts down until the individual pressure plate fingers go perfectly flat.

For the driveshaft bolts, take a breaker bar, slip a cheater bar over it, and run it down with as much strength as you got.

 

[Jardon]

You can derive a valid range of torque specs just by googling it based on bolt size (m6 x 1.0, 3/8-24, etc) and bolt grade (8.8, 10.9, etc.).

For the pressure plate, torque spec doesn't matter too much. What matters is that you torque the bolts down until the individual pressure plate fingers go perfectly flat.

For the driveshaft bolts, take a breaker bar, slip a cheater bar over it, and run it down with as much strength as you got.

Honestly id be concerned abt stripping or breaking something since ive got some umph behind me lol. I have found the flywheel torque spec. When it comes to bell housing and transmission, I just dont want anything coming loose. Maybe its paranoia, but I guess its valid because its all drivetrain. One other issue is the clutch pedal has a hard time coming back up. Which im confused about because its cable driven which makes me believe i may need a new clutch cable

 

[RAU03MACH]

Don't forget some will require lock tite

 

[Jardon]

Don't forget some will require lock tite

I work at a dealership thankfully and have red high temp thread locker

 

[96blak54]

Yes 100% thread locker on the clutch bolts

 

[Jardon]

Yes 100% thread locker on the clutch bolts

Heard. I'll make a note on that. One final question for this thread. Why would my clutch pedal have troubles coming back up on its own despite it being cable driven? Ive been thinking about it since the clutch went

 

[96blak54]

Stretched or broken cable, broken clutch, cable adjustment out, clutch fork not correctly seated, or broke(not likely), pedal clutch quadrant(stock is plastic) could be broke or cable not seated in quadrant.

You about to dig in and find out what really happened. Be prepared to leave the car sitting, unfinished while ordering more parts

 

[96blak54]

It may benefit you to go crawl under the dash and put your eyes on the clutch quadrant. It could be broke or cable is off. If your stuff is compromised, BBK has a great kit with cable and a firewall adjuster.
This pic is from american muscle and Pro-force performance may be able to help you as well

 

[96blak54]

If your clutch pedal is limp with zero resistance, its fair to say either the cable broke or the quadrant broke. Quadrant is what the clutch pedal rotates to pull the cable....could be broke or something....gotta put eyes on it

 

[Jardon]

Stretched or broken cable, broken clutch, cable adjustment out, clutch fork not correctly seated, or broke(not likely), pedal clutch quadrant(stock is plastic) could be broke or cable not seated in quadrant.

You about to dig in and find out what really happened. Be prepared to leave the car sitting, unfinished while ordering more parts

I had a feeling. I already prepped myself mentally to have it down with new clutch in and trans out

 

[cobrajeff96]

I'd congratulate you and mail you a six pack if you were able to shear off a driveshaft bolt. I'd also nominate you for a Guinness record.

But seriously, just run the bellhousing bolts down with the 1/2 ratchet and put them pretty tight (not with a breaker and cheater). I've never had one come loose, but blue locktite will be peace of mind (not red). It's ok to use red on driveshaft bolts and is a requirement on wheel bearing nuts, but literally nothing else in the car should be getting red loctite. Maybe brake claiper to spindle bolts if you're suspecting the bolt threads are too worn. But rest assured, the only way you'll ever remove a red bolt is with a direct application of a propane torch for at least 15 seconds.

 

[Jardon]

If your clutch pedal is limp with zero resistance, its fair to say either the cable broke or the quadrant broke. Quadrant is what the clutch pedal rotates to pull the cable....could be broke or something....gotta put eyes on it

I wouldn't say its limp. It just has troubles coming back up on its own

 

[Jardon]

I'd congratulate you and mail you a six pack if you were able to shear off a driveshaft bolt. I'd also nominate you for a Guinness record.

But seriously, just run the bellhousing bolts down with the 1/2 ratchet and put them pretty tight (not with a breaker and cheater). I've never had one come loose, but blue locktite will be peace of mind (not red). It's ok to use red on driveshaft bolts and is a requirement on wheel bearing nuts, but literally nothing else in the car should be getting red loctite. Maybe brake claiper to spindle bolts if you're suspecting the bolt threads are too worn. But rest assured, the only way you'll ever remove a red bolt is with a direct application of a propane torch for at least 15 seconds.

Understood XD I haven't had the best history with working on personal vehicles which is why im extra cautious since the only big jobs I do (axles, clutch, etc) are on my own cars. Thankfully my dealership has different thread lockers in stock

 

[cobrajeff96]

I wouldn't say its limp. It just has troubles coming back up on its own

Happens with 40+ year old Mustangs I guess. Especially in the northern states.

 

[Jardon]

Happens with 40+ year old Mustangs I guess. Especially in the northern states.

I live in Pennsylvania and got the stang from New Jersey. So im not expecting everything to be all fine and dandy lol. I'll definitely be taking a look at the clutch pedal stuff as soon as im off work today