Type of Heads w/ a Kenne Bell

95KBGT

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Hey Guys, well i have a kenne bell twin screw. Gears and mild exhuast. Im still waiting on my injectors, and that should hopefully put me around 310HP. My question is, what are a good set of heads that i can run with the KB with out any problems?

Im looking for 400-500HP Id also like to know where i can find some long tube headers??

Thanks!
 

281cammer

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1 more for AFR's. Getting ready to order mine in next couple days.
Steve Ricketts
 
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95KBGT

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any specifics or just tell em i have a 95 5.0 with a KB i need these heads.
 

Eastcoast5.0

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Being blown I'd say the AFR 185's, but I'm no head expert so I'd ask a shop or call the manufacturer.
 

281cammer

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Is your shortblock stock? The pistons will have to be notched if you go with the AFR 185's. Thats why I'm going with 165's plus my car is naturally aspirated.
Steve Ricketts
 

jimgt95

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95KBGT said:
Hey Guys, well i have a kenne bell twin screw. Gears and mild exhuast. Im still waiting on my injectors, and that should hopefully put me around 310HP. My question is, what are a good set of heads that i can run with the KB with out any problems?

Im looking for 400-500HP Id also like to know where i can find some long tube headers??

Thanks!

95KBGT, I just went through this whole install last summer. Go with the AFR 165's. Like 281cammer said, you will have to notch the stock pistons if you go with the 185's. AFR will tell you this. I also got the pedestal mount (stock style) heads versus the stud mount and I got the spring upgrade due to the supercharger. All of my mods and dyno results are in my sig. I still need a little more tuning work and a couple of other items so hopefully I will be at about 400hp/tq at the wheels after that. Good luck and PM me or post here if you have any questions!
 
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95KBGT

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DId you ever run your car on the stock 19lb injectors? when you went to 42lbs could you tell a difference. Yes i still have stock internals but im so close to 300HP and im pretty sure im allready there (New belt and tensioner after tune) during the tune i was only pushing 9LBS now im pushing 10LBS. My TQ peaked at 365 i just need that last little shove to hang with terminators and im hoping, Heads, INjectors, and Full length headers will work.
 

jimgt95

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95KBGT said:
DId you ever run your car on the stock 19lb injectors? when you went to 42lbs could you tell a difference. Yes i still have stock internals but im so close to 300HP and im pretty sure im allready there (New belt and tensioner after tune) during the tune i was only pushing 9LBS now im pushing 10LBS. My TQ peaked at 365 i just need that last little shove to hang with terminators and im hoping, Heads, INjectors, and Full length headers will work.

I never did run on the 19lb injectors. I just went straight to the 42's. I could drive it with the 42's with a matched mass air meter, but I was in desperate need of a tune. I did NOT go into boost until I had it tuned properly. Are you using the FMU or just going off of a good chip tune? If so, SCT or a KB chip? The tune really is what ties it all together. I had all of the parts but until I was properly advancing spark and adding fuel, good hardware doesn't mean much.

What other mods to you have other than the blower? 2.2L or 1.5L? Bypass or no bypass?
 

Julian Moore

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jimgt95 said:
I did NOT go into boost until I had it tuned properly.

Hands down the SMARTEST thing to remember when going to a power adder!! Well said!
 

wytstang

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Personal preference goes to TW heads they have great low lift flow rates. Also take into consideration that AFR are a bit more $$ and they recomend a spring upgrade especially if you swap out you cam added cost. Also TW have more meat on them for porting allow some growth while AFR's are CNCed so there's not meat to port. .02
 
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95KBGT

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jimgt95 said:
95KBGT said:
DId you ever run your car on the stock 19lb injectors? when you went to 42lbs could you tell a difference. Yes i still have stock internals but im so close to 300HP and im pretty sure im allready there (New belt and tensioner after tune) during the tune i was only pushing 9LBS now im pushing 10LBS. My TQ peaked at 365 i just need that last little shove to hang with terminators and im hoping, Heads, INjectors, and Full length headers will work.

I never did run on the 19lb injectors. I just went straight to the 42's. I could drive it with the 42's with a matched mass air meter, but I was in desperate need of a tune. I did NOT go into boost until I had it tuned properly. Are you using the FMU or just going off of a good chip tune? If so, SCT or a KB chip? The tune really is what ties it all together. I had all of the parts but until I was properly advancing spark and adding fuel, good hardware doesn't mean much.

What other mods to you have other than the blower? 2.2L or 1.5L? Bypass or no bypass?
I have the FMU by kenne bell and a great tune. ANd i believe i have the SCT chip. ( idropped her off) I have a the twin screw 1.5 with no bypass from what i know (how can i verify?) and a 2 3/8 pulley. They say that fmu is telling my 155 sending unit to send a shit load of gas and the injectors cant take it. so thus i need 42lbs.
OSNAP.jpg
 

jimgt95

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Ok, you do not have a bypass. If you did, it would be a a black tube with a vacuum driven valve going from the intake side of the blower to the output side ("bypassing" the compressor).

Whoever did the analysis of your problem is not right. The FMU isn't telling anything to your car, it has no electronics. The FMU is a simple (and not very precise) way of getting your 19lb injectors to flow enough fuel when you go into boost. It is just a mechanical vacuum (boost in this case) driven valve that cuts off the fuel return line to the gas tank thereby increasing the fuel pressure at your smaller injectors. The increased fuel pressure causes your injectors to flow more fuel (unmetered by the ECM). Also, your 155lph fuel pump pumps at 155lph whether you are idling or going full throttle. (This is somewhat debateable due to fluctuations in voltage going to the pump - just ask KB).

So, I would recommend ditching the FMU, it is not very precise. Buy a set of larger fuel injectors. 42lbs would be plently large and leave you with room to grow for future mods. Also, buy a mass air meter calibrated for 42lb injectors or whatever size injector you go with. Go with a custom chip tune to tie it all together and you will be suprized at how much better your car drives/runs.

I will post a pic of my engine to show you what the bypass looks like.
 
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95KBGT

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jimgt95 said:
Ok, you do not have a bypass. If you did, it would be a a black tube with a vacuum driven valve going from the intake side of the blower to the output side ("bypassing" the compressor).

Whoever did the analysis of your problem is not right. The FMU isn't telling anything to your car, it has no electronics. The FMU is a simple (and not very precise) way of getting your 19lb injectors to flow enough fuel when you go into boost. It is just a mechanical vacuum (boost in this case) driven valve that cuts off the fuel return line to the gas tank thereby increasing the fuel pressure at your smaller injectors. The increased fuel pressure causes your injectors to flow more fuel (unmetered by the ECM). Also, your 155lph fuel pump pumps at 155lph whether you are idling or going full throttle. (This is somewhat debateable due to fluctuations in voltage going to the pump - just ask KB).

So, I would recommend ditching the FMU, it is not very precise. Buy a set of larger fuel injectors. 42lbs would be plently large and leave you with room to grow for future mods. Also, buy a mass air meter calibrated for 42lb injectors or whatever size injector you go with. Go with a custom chip tune to tie it all together and you will be suprized at how much better your car drives/runs.

I will post a pic of my engine to show you what the bypass looks like.

thanks man you have been a great help! Where can i get a mass air meter? is that aka MAF? what size?
 

jimgt95

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Ok, so here's a picture of my engine. The gloss black tube running from the intake where the throttle body bolts over to the output manifold of the compessor is the bypass. It comes standard with the 2.2L Blowzilla that I have and is optional on the 1.5L. I also posted a pic of my car up on the dyno, just for fun.

Mass air meter = MAF (mass air flow). Here's where you need to plan in advance. Ok, you are planning heads, injectors, and a MAF meter. You can get a MAF meter from Pro-M (good 80mm thats what I have), C+L, Granatelli, and SCT among others. I would recommend one in the 80-90mm range to support the extra flow from the heads and other improvements down the road.

What you are going to have to decide is how you will deal with hooking up the mass air meter to your existing CAI. That's where I am at right now. I also had/have whats left of a MAC CAI mated with an 80mm pro-m mass air meter. I decided to go the AFM Power Pipe route. I'm actually waitiing on it right now. Anyway it's something to consider.

Hope this helps.

[attachment deleted by admin] SORRY HAD TO CLEAR ROOM
 

94twinscrew

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afr's are good,but pricey. Tri-state cylinder heads has a new aluminum set that flows just as well,for only $800, it was just in the last 5.0 mag. You don't want to run the TW with the kb,because of the height difference,you would have to run a spacer to clear the valve covers,and modify the snout bracket to make it work.

As for the bypass,you don't have one,......but you could add one like I did to my ported and polished manifolds .......


 

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