Used blowers?

[justinschmidt1]

I dont really know what an fmu does exactly...but from what ive heard its like a bandaid.

Besides, I want to see what my car will dyno at

 

[voidfinger]

I dont know if thats cheaper than a blower...I dont know about you, but Im not capable of taking an engine out of a car and replacing the whole block.

Paying for the install on that would cost an arm and a leg

I do all my own work... thanks to a full set of shop tool, twin bay shop, and a lift

I had a chance to snag a 5.4 PI motor coplete with out injectors for around 400 bucks.

So Price List as Follows

Motor : 400
Adapters : ~ 300 ish
Modifiing Mid pipe to fit ~ 100
Tune ~ 400

So around 1200 ish to 2000

That set up with just a stock 5.4 PI 2v has run deep into the twelves. goes to show how much a crap ton of torque helps our miss piggy cars.

 

[justinschmidt1]

Yea, but install for that stuff...like 1500? haha

 

[voidfinger]

It's so simple... I could do it within a day... I'd put money on it.

Step 1: Remove Current Motor
Step 2: Lower 5.4 In
Step 3: Bolt in and reattach everything
Step 4: Tune
Step 5: Drive... Super simple...

But i guess if you've never removed a motor it isn't the nices thing to think about.

 

[justinschmidt1]

no ive never removed a motor.

I dont have the tools to do it.

Its also my daily driver so its not like I can just tear it apart and say whoops Ill throw it together later

If its that easy Id be glad to pay you for a days work while you do it. :hammer:

 

[voidfinger]

no ive never removed a motor.

I dont have the tools to do it.

Its also my daily driver so its not like I can just tear it apart and say whoops Ill throw it together later

If its that easy Id be glad to pay you for a days work while you do it. :hammer:

k then, if you got the money and the parts and can get it to me lol. ... average shop pay, a 5th of vodka and a pizza and its done... exept for tunning... I'm not that self sufficent yet lol.

 

[justinschmidt1]

haha, honestly....if It was 2 weeks ago and I didnt already buy a blower, I would really consider it.

Is probably get the parts and drive to NC, with a 5th of vodka and a pizza.

Id rather go n.a....but these 4.6s dont want to make power n.a so thats why Im gonna blow her.

 

[nesqwick_05]

I dont really know what an fmu does exactly...but from what ive heard its like a bandaid.

Besides, I want to see what my car will dyno at

raises fuel pressure to accommidate for boost, typically you would run richer then usual, but mine was deadon when i was dynoing. what do u think they did before all the computer tuning?? its considered a bandaid now because there are better things out there, ie dyno tuning, datalog, etc. but they are still used because they work. every fmu car ive seen has done great though, infact alot of 96-98 cobra guys run them along with a bigger inj/tune setup, just to help out some... :thumb:

 

[voidfinger]

hmm... they probably did work well with a "stock system" ya know...

 

[nesqwick_05]

they work very well, esp for us young guys without alot of money...

 

[voidfinger]

lol hear ya there.

 

[justinschmidt1]

I dont have any money...but id rather wat 6 months and save up the money to do it right.

Is that stupid?

should I just hook it up with the fmu?

 

[voidfinger]

why risk it dude. save the money... you already got half the battle won there.

 

[nesqwick_05]

I dont have any money...but id rather wat 6 months and save up the money to do it right.

Is that stupid?

should I just hook it up with the fmu?

i say bolt it on, your not gunna blow the motor if its running right with the fmu. and you can always save and upgrade later.

 

[justinschmidt1]

I would be with you if it wasnt my daily driver...but I need it to get to school/work. So if rather save up and be on the safer side.

 

[voidfinger]

wise words.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Look on corral.ent and modularfords.com .... I am sure you can get a good used vortech for 1500-2000 bucks. Just have to be patient and look for deals and have cash in hand ready to buy when the good deal comes around.

I got my first kit, a Vortech S-trim for 1200 bucks on Ebay.

FMU will work fine, but Justin, it certainly won't hurt to wait, the only thing you are gaining is power, not safety though.

 

[19mustang95]

the installation +parts would be over 2k

no it wouldn't, i don't know what backyard mechanic's do your work taht take 3Xs the regular labor time to install something at decent rates or you take your car to a ferrari machanic that is use to charging people whatever he wants...

 

[19mustang95]

You could probably run 13s with some drag radials, 4.10s and some weight reduction if you really wanted to..its hard to shed weight I guess.

You've got 4.10s, get some drag radials, pi intake and pi cams and you should be solid high 13s if you can drive.

drag radials, 3.73s, full exhaust, intake, and UDPs and i can run 13.6-13.7s all day easily. full NPI stock longblock...

 

[justinschmidt1]

the installation +parts would be over 2k

no it wouldn't, i don't know what backyard mechanic's do your work taht take 3Xs the regular labor time to install something at decent rates or you take your car to a ferrari machanic that is use to charging people whatever he wants...

Assuming you buy the 1400 dollar kit..how would installation not be over 600 dollars?

even if you pieced it together you would probably spend 1,000

I would imagine any mechanic would charge close to 1000 dollars to install all that crap.

They quote 700 to install cams around here.

You could probably run 13s with some drag radials, 4.10s and some weight reduction if you really wanted to..its hard to shed weight I guess.

You've got 4.10s, get some drag radials, pi intake and pi cams and you should be solid high 13s if you can drive.

drag radials, 3.73s, full exhaust, intake, and UDPs and i can run 13.6-13.7s all day easily. full NPI stock longblock...

You are such a vagina

You left out all these details like the fact that the car was stripped of a lot of shit and weighed like 3,000 pounds at the time and you were cutting 1.6-1.7 60 foot times.

heres what you said
so i weighed the car at the track at the end of the night, with a little bit less than 1/4 of a tank it weighed right about 3000 pounds. the car had no passenger seat, no back seat, no front sway bar, no spare/jack, i put my kirkey racing seat in.

The same car ran 14.7@97 you said...so with those mods, without the weight reduction the car ran 14.7 right?

Im just saying that you should probably include details like that.

In order to make your stang ( not gutted, no weight reduction) run 13s you will need more power, pi intake and cams.



Weight reduction does make a huge differance...but generally I think people want to run faster by making more power and not having to strip 500 pounds of shit off that you will put back in the car anyway.