vortech v1 Q's

[94pacecar435]

well im going to try to install my vortech v1 and have a couple questions??first, the fmu that i got i have no idea whats it for??the only #s on it are 6z110116.another thing whats the difference between a v1 or v2.i got my blower used and im pretty sure i got everything.any tips on installing and or problem on installing it.the guy who sold it to is going to help me and he has installed them before, thanks

 

[Cobra456hp]

v1's are loud. and pretty sure the v2 is sq which is quiet. what did the blower come off. if a cobra, the fmu "should" be set for your 24lbs. the only way to tell is to take it apart and measure the diaphragm/ disc. The 2 hardest parts are gonna be the oil cooler hoses, (most people delete those, but kept mine, pulled my intake and re-plumbed them. and the a/c line bending. BE CAREFUL, its very easy to crimp the line or break the weld on the condenser.. good luck! If you have any ?'s about anything else let me know... it looks like everything is there though. and I had/have nos before I got my blower so I already had a T-rex. If I were you I would put a toggle switch on it cause they get annoying. luckily I did this as I was putting my NOS on and glad I did. if I feel like jumping on it hard, I just flip the switch for reassurance

here's my v1 http://videos.streetfire.net/search/supercharged+cobra/0/080E6E39-48AA-4014-81BC-26195385E289.HTM

 

[Peter]

I suggest upgrading your injectors over using the band-aid fmu

 

[94pacecar435]

im having problems with the oil t fitting.the kit that i got didnt got one so i had to make like 10 trips to get a few fittings to hopefully work.how much oil pressure does the blower need???i hope that with all the fittings and curving that it will get enough??? another thing in order to use the powerpipe i need to cut the shit of my inner fender right???if i need to i might just skip that and just find something else to use there.what would be the best spot to install the msd box, having trouble on where to mount it.i spend more time looking for fittings ,that i still not sure if its going to work ,than actually working on the car.this is what happens when u get a used kit.thanks for the help :thumb:

 

[Cobra456hp]

I mounted the msd on my fenderwell beside the blower. ill take your powerpipe off your hands for you. and to check the btm, hook it up, run a timing light and manually create boost with a vacuum pump, see if the timing is getting retarted. fittings should be 4-an to 3/8 npt...3/8npt t-fitting...3/8npt 2 or 3 inches long.. pull the oil sensor, run the 3 inch into the block, then the t- fitting, then the oil sensor. the other opening gets the 4-an and thats were your feed line goes.

 

[94pacecar435]

can i run it w/o the fmu and msd box for now just to c if everything is working fine? also wutz the big deal about the oil cooler can i just delete it. seems like a big hassle?

 

[Cobra456hp]

yes you can run without the msd. but I would back the timing down a little and run really good gas till you get it hooked up. as for the fmu, its not hard to install, takes all of 3 min. I wouldn't suggest running boost without it. the oil cooler can be deleted, This will allow you to run a larger oil filter. do you have a fuel pressure gauge? what about an adjustable fp regulator? If you have the gauge, watch it as you build boost, the fuel pressure should rise with the boost. if you hear ANY pinging, back out of it, that will cause a melted piston, head gasket , cracked block or other serious issues. if you don't have boost/ fuel pressure gauges, I HIGHLY suggest getting these SOON. Also what peter had posted about the fmu being a "band-aid" is true. but considering that if calibrated correctly and that 42 lbers and a new maf is around $400, Then a tune to get it to idle is $400=$600, it works. the thing is if under alot of boost, and the diaphragm were to break, the fuel pressure will drop and the possibility of the serious damage I talked about could occur. :noes: also if you dont want to cut the fenderwell, I have the vortech intake tract that puts it in the cai fender hole. posible trade and cash for your power pipe? being a pacecar im not sure I would want to cut it up either. as far as being restricted, I run at 11 lbs of boost, I would say not resrticted. uttahere:

 

[94pacecar435]

we barely found out that the msd box has been prewired for us so all we have to do is plug it!!!the t rex is next and the fmu.yesterday i was talking to this guy from a mustang car crew and he said most of em run without the fmu, that their cars actually run better w/o it.the reason im hesitant about running it is because we dont know what its calibrated for????? the guy who sold me the kit got it on a parts deal and all he knew that it was for a 94-95.im getting the fp regualor, fuel pressure gauge , and boost gauge today too.how do i install the boost gauge????where should i install the fp regulator???
well i already got another intake tract, and i still dont know what i want to do with the power pipe , cause i want a 331 strker later on with more boost, but when i decide if i want to get rid of it, and let u know :thumb: thanks a lot, its my first blower install and have gotten a lot of questions answered, :thumb: heres our progress

 

[Cobra456hp]

pretty cool man! :thumb: O.k. The fp regulator will be located on the back of the pass side fuel rail. 2 allen screws and a vacuum hose. I run a kirban, be sure that its boost sensitive. and just run your boost gauge off any of the ports in the back of the intake. should be reading around 18-20 vac. also what size pulley is that? from some of the pics it look smaller than the stock 3.33 and its made different than all 3 of my vortech pulleys.. how did you like bending the a/c line and cutting that coolant tube? fun stuff huh? what does the guy mean they run better with out it? they must be running bigger injectors or 5-6 lbs boost. and if I'm not mistaken, if you were to put a gt fmu in it would produce more fuel pressure. I could be wrong on that but I have read that guys have seen as much as 90-100 psi. ridiculous, My fpsi is set around 40-42. start with 38-40 and work from there...each car is different.thanks for the pics, keep them coming

 

[Lightning Struck]

looks like you are getting close to the finish line , keep us posted with new pics and the first start-up 8)

 

[94pacecar435]

heres the lowdown.i started it without the fmu and the t rex and it started it fine.the maf was giving us problem cause it was crooked.we straighten it out and it idled and worked perfect.small coolant leaking problem that we quickly fixed.to our surprise no oil leaks!!!!now the problems we had.when we installed the t rex we used regular hoses so when we started it up we tought everything was cool, until we looked behind , fuel everywhere.we fiund out the problem and now it seems cool.one question we installed the t rex on a toggle switch but when we turn it off the whole system in the back moves.it seems the fuel pressure skyrockets with the t rex off and the regular pump working.so we just turn it on all the time.another thing when we rev it up 3500 or more it pops through the exhaust .it seems like its running rich.so i bought a bbk regulator and pressure gauge.right out the box its set at 29psi and when i rev it .it shoots to 33-35 psi???what do u think???should i set it higher??the car pops less.all of this is without the fmu, so im install it also just to make sure i dont mess anything else.which one is the inlet???on the fuel rail??and where should i put the vacuum at???now the good news, it sounds awesome!!!!! i love the sound, power i just took it to 3500 rpm and u can feel the difference ther!!!i cant wait till i can get on it!!!!at last wher should it start building boost???

 

[Cobra456hp]

29psi is low, factory is set at 36. "we turn it off the whole system in the back moves.it seems the fuel pressure skyrockets with the t rex off and the regular pump working." can you elaborate? your fuel rail inlet is in the front on the pass side. and where it will start to build boost will depend on the size of your pullies. 3500 is just the start though. what kinda gears are you running? if your factory pump is pumping more than your t-rex, then you have an issue. when my pump was factory, it would run normal (sometimes) until I jumped on it, it would fall on its face from losing pressure. Flipping that t-rex toggle would completely wake up the car. I now have a walbro.=problem solved=

 

[94pacecar435]

i installed the fmu and it runs like shit now!!!!! it bogs when driving and the engine shakes more.the vacuum is to the regulator and the intake tree next to the regulator and the fuel lines are right but runs like shit.the fuel pressure was set at 38 with no vacuum on the regulator.with vacuum it drops to 30.what do u guys think is going on????one more thing do u think the fmu is calibrated wrong???how do i know which one i got???

 

[94pacecar435]

i went to a mustang speed shop and ordered me a 10 to 1 calibration kit.they told me thats the one for my cobra??what do u guys think???how hard is it to install it???

 

[Cobra456hp]

The Vortech FMU is a “rising rate†fuel pressure regulator. It senses boost condition in the intake manifold. Once it senses boost presence, it compensates by adding more fuel to the combustion system. Depending on the disk size, it adds the intended fuel pressure. For an example, 10:1 disk means that it will add 10 psi of fuel pressure to the fuel rail for every 1 psi of boost that it senses. basically restricts/regulates the amount of fuel that normally recirculates back to the fuel tank... Im pretty sure that you need an 8:1 for 24 lb injectors. This is what summit states also. now superchargers online lists the 8:1 for 24 lbs and the 10:1 for 93 Cobras, which I dont really understand because they run 24 lbs also. now are you running rich at idle? cause the fmu doesnt kick in till boost is provided. might wanna check your timing

 

[94pacecar435]

do u think 10 to 1 will work??? cause thats what the guy ordered.he called vortech and i guess thats what they told him.and yeah i checked out summit too and thats what it says for 24s.well if i got 10 ill just return it and order 8 to 1.yes, im running rich at idle.what should my timing be set at???all of this happened after the fmu, so i doubted its anything else???thanks for the answers :thumb:

 

[Cobra456hp]

thats odd. Ive never had any problems from an fmu (knock on wood). unless the one you have has a broken diaphram I dont see why it would affect idle...? after you get it apart, take some pics. I would like to see what they look like inside and exactly how it works. Im thinking that not under boost the diaphram is open allowing fuel to return, under boost- the diaprham must be pushed closed to restrict the fuel return. possibly it is stuck closed and restricting return.? therefore the fuel has to go somewhere=injectors. I also think if thats the case you would see alot of fpsi at idle and not the 29 psi you said. Come on, someone else chime in on this. you got me on this one...??? as far as timing goes. some say 10 with the spout out and some say 14. I have a good bit of advanced timing as I set mine with a light and by FEELING and HEARING. get it out on a hot day, put a load on it till spark knocks a little then back it down a couple degrees. hope this helps a little, sorry I couldnt be more help..

 

[94pacecar435]

thats odd. Ive never had any problems from an fmu (knock on wood). unless the one you have has a broken diaphram I dont see why it would affect idle...? after you get it apart, take some pics. I would like to see what they look like inside and exactly how it works. Im thinking that not under boost the diaphram is open allowing fuel to return, under boost- the diaprham must be pushed closed to restrict the fuel return. possibly it is stuck closed and restricting return.? therefore the fuel has to go somewhere=injectors. I also think if thats the case you would see alot of fpsi at idle and not the 29 psi you said. Come on, someone else chime in on this. you got me on this one...??? as far as timing goes. some say 10 with the spout out and some say 14. I have a good bit of advanced timing as I set mine with a light and by FEELING and HEARING. get it out on a hot day, put a load on it till spark knocks a little then back it down a couple degrees. hope this helps a little, sorry I couldnt be more help..

yes, thats exactly what one of my friends told me it feels like.it seems like all the pressure goes to the injectors, we screwed with the fuel pressure, and nothing same idle.under 3500 theres no boos t but it surges like shit, especially on 2nd gear.before the fmu the idle was perfect, and it run good.after the fmu u can smell the raw gas and the idle went to hell.so it probably is a messed up fmu.ill take pics on friday thats when im getting the new fmu.another how tight is the belt supposed to be???i tighted pretty tight but i dont want to mess up the bearing or anything, so i want to get an idea????also i measured the pulley and it seems like 3 1/4???thanks for the help :thumb:

 

[Cobra456hp]

the belt should be pretty tight. Ive read that if over tightened, the crank pulley has actually broken off. I use a 1/2 breaker bar when tightening mine by myself. with that large a pulley, you shouldnt get any belt slip though, only when you go with smaller pulleys.. are you currently running the fmu? if not, I would pull it apart to see.

 

[94pacecar435]

yeah im currently running it, i need the car for work for tomorrow, ill take it apart after work on friday.and yeah i got it pretty tight i just wanted to check to make sure :thumb: