Weird Fan Problem?..... HELP PLEASE??

[Quarter Horse]

Hello Everyone,
Over the weekend (Basically all day Saturday) I had to change my Radiator due to a leak and also did an extensive Tune up on my 95 Stang! Changed Radiator with a Factory Replacement one, installed a 180* Thermostat, Oil & Filter(Syn. Oil went back in), New hoses, New AR25 Plugs(Gapped to .052"). All New MSD 8.5 Wires, MSD Cap & Rotor, MSD Blaster Coil, Wanted to check my Timing too but couldn't find my Damn Timing light!......... So timing will have to wait.
Anyways on to My Problem...... As soon as I was done I noticed when I went to start the car, the Fan kicks on as soon as I turn the Key on. Once the engine fires up it continues to run and then "Seems" to Cycle but not like it used too?? :undecided: The engine stays A LOT Cooler now(in Between 170-185*) just idling But takes a Longgggg time to get up to Temp with the Fan Cycling on/off from Start up. I haven't gotten a chance to drive it yet But I will be taking it to work tomorrow so maybe I will be able to give a better explanation of exactly when the fan is kicking on/off, Cuz of right now it seems to just do it randomly??
I unhooked my battery for all of last night to see if that would make any difference but it did not. (The car does not have the check engine light on or anything, Just thought I would give it a try)
You guy's think I need to change my fan thermostat switch or ??? Any and all Help would be Greatly Appreciated, Thanks in advance! :smiley:

Phil

 

[g36 monkey]

a/c on?

 

[Quarter Horse]

a/c on?

No Sir...... The AC doesnt even work(think there a leak somewhere) But No, all HVAC controls are off.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[CC'S95GT]

Are you sure you burped the cooling system completely?
Maybe the temp sending unit wire is shorting randomly. (there are 2 temp sensors, 1 for the guage, 1 for the computer)

turning the a/c or defroster on in the car will turn the hi fan on. It doesn't matter if the compressor kick on or not.

 

[Quarter Horse]

Are you sure you burped the cooling system completely?
Maybe the temp sending unit wire is shorting randomly. (there are 2 temp sensors, 1 for the guage, 1 for the computer)

turning the a/c or defroster on in the car will turn the hi fan on. It doesn't matter if the compressor kick on or not.

Thank You...... I will give it a shot.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[g36 monkey]

That's what I was going to say. Just didn't have much time this morning trying to run off to work haha!

 

[Quarter Horse]

Well Guys...... I am STUMPED!!!! Been driving the Car back n forth to work and the Fan issue is VERY STRANGE to me. Doesn't matter what condition I put the Car in, as soon as I go to Start the Car the Fan comes right on with the ignition on?? It does Cycle but randomly and I even tried turning the AC on and there is NO High Fan mode that comes on..... No Fan at all sometimes(Just depends if the fan cycle is on or off..... But it never changes Speed??).
This all started happening after changing the Radiator(Old one was leaking)and changing the Thermostat to a MR. Gasket 180* one & a Moroso 18-20lb Cap. (Could my problem be because of this???) I also did a Full Tune up, as I described above.
Another weird thing is when the car is fully Warmed up(Gauge is showing around 190-200*) I tried to Squeeze the Top Rad hose to see if the Thermostat was open and it's hard as a Rock, I Carefully tried to remove the Rad Cap...... and NOPE, System is completely Pressurized like the thermostat is closed. However the Car never gets Hot so I don't understand how this could be??
Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions I can try? Really thinking about changing the Thermostat back to a 195*....... I just find this really hard to believe that would affect the Fan coming on @ Start up and the Weird Cycling condition I'm having? Oh Ya, I also have a Check Engine light that will pop on and then go off..... WTF????

 

[CC'S95GT]

definately wierd.
When you installed the thermostat, did you put the spring toward the block? Gotta ask.
When the rad was changed out, I assume you disconnected ther CCRM. Double ck the connection to make sure it's fully seated. Since it's a large connector and sometimes you have to push/wiggle the connector then tighten the screw and repeat till the connector is fully seated.

 

[Quarter Horse]

definately wierd.
When you installed the thermostat, did you put the spring toward the block? Gotta ask.
When the rad was changed out, I assume you disconnected ther CCRM. Double ck the connection to make sure it's fully seated. Since it's a large connector and sometimes you have to push/wiggle the connector then tighten the screw and repeat till the connector is fully seated.

Thanks for Posting CC,
Yes Sir I installed the Thermostat Correctly. The CCRM...... is that the Big Black box that sits right in front of the Radiator? If it is, No I just moved it out of the Way. However, there was (2) other Plugs that I had to undo and I have Triple checked them and they seem to be good. Think I should replace the CCRM, Doesn't that control the Fan?

Little more on the Check Engine Light, Seems to come on only when I get on on the car hard or when Cruising at high speeds(Like on the Freeway). Does this make any Sense?? Not sure how to pull codes yet....... Need to read up some more.

 

[CC'S95GT]

your haynes/chilton manual can tell you how to pull codes with a paperclip. just count the flashes on the dash

yes the CCRM does control the fans. Usually when the relays stop working they are either on or off. they're not usually intermitant. usually

 

[Quarter Horse]

Ok Thank you, But one when you say "Fan's" are you talking about there being (2)? Mine only has (1) Fan and it looks like it's factory to me?...... So this has me more confused now? lol

 

[toyman]

Let's clarify a few things. There is only one fan but it has a 2 speed motor (low and high). The CCRM has 4 relays, low and high fans, fuel pump and ECU power. The factory ECT setting for the low fan is 208* - 220* depending on the source reference. The Ford service manual says 220*. High fan on with the A/C on, the vehicle speed under 47 mph and engine temp above 230*. An intermittent issue is most likely a loose or bad connection. In this case I would check the ECT sensor connection. The ECT is above the T-stat in the heater bypass hose. A hard upper rad hose means the T-stat is open. A 180* temp T-stat only allows the water to start to circulate earlier than a 195* one. The T-stat only establishes a minimum operating temperature. Learn to pull codes or buy a reader like this for $22 with a digital code display. You really need to know what events the ECU has logged before spending $$'s on parts based on best guesses.

 

[Quarter Horse]

Let's clarify a few things. There is only one fan but it has a 2 speed motor (low and high). The CCRM has 4 relays, low and high fans, fuel pump and ECU power. The factory ECT setting for the low fan is 208* - 220* depending on the source reference. The Ford service manual says 220*. High fan on with the A/C on, the vehicle speed under 47 mph and engine temp above 230*. An intermittent issue is most likely a loose or bad connection. In this case I would check the ECT sensor connection. The ECT is above the T-stat in the heater bypass hose. A hard upper rad hose means the T-stat is open. A 180* temp T-stat only allows the water to start to circulate earlier than a 195* one. The T-stat only establishes a minimum operating temperature. Learn to pull codes or buy a reader like this for $22 with a digital code display. You really need to know what events the ECU has logged before spending $$'s on parts based on best guesses.

WOW..... THANK YOU Toyman!!! :thumbsup: I just leaned More in this one Post than I have in the Last 3 Days looking into this Fan problem! I watched a few YouTube video's last night on how to check the engine codes and it looks pretty easy. I will pull the Codes and go from there. Again thank you for posting this info for me Sir! :wink:

Thank you to EVERYONE that has Posted to help me, I really Appreciate it Fellas! Sorry for some of the Dumb Questions.... I'm Just a Ford/Mustang ROOKIE!!! :smiley:

 

[rz5.0]

ECT sensor. When it goes bad the fan will stay on. Maybe it's on its way out. .

 

[Quarter Horse]

ECT sensor. When it goes bad the fan will stay on. Maybe it's on its way out. .

I will Deff check into this....... Thank you for Posting. :wink: I am going to pull the Codes and then go from there. :thumbsup:

 

[Quarter Horse]

Ok Guys, Finally got some time to Work on the car today. I pulled the Codes using the "Jumper" method. Here is what I got......
556 - Primary Fuel Pump circuit failure (This Code came 1st every time I did the Procedure)
Then the Stored codes were.....
117 - Coolant Temperature circuit below minimum voltage/indicates above 245 degrees F
118 - Coolant Temperature sensor circuit above maximum voltage/ indicates below -40 degrees
172 - Heated oxygen sensor indicates lean condition, right side
176 - Heated oxygen sensor indicates lean condition, left side

Now I'm Pretty Sure I need to throw a New Coolant Temp Sensor in Her..... But code 556 Has me REALLY Worried! Also, Should I replace My Cats as well.... What to do you all think?

 

[rz5.0]

I would replace the ect and oxygen sensors. Then reset the eec and get codes again. .

 

[CC'S95GT]

The cats are after the O2's, meaning the O2's don't know what the cats are doing or if they're even there. Don't worry about the cats unless you think they're clogged.
When ever I got both 172 and 176, it was because my MAF was dirty. This may not be the case for you this time.
556 might be from the car stalling. Or it might be from the dizzy going out. (after the initial FP time out, the rotation of the dizzy keeps the FP running)
I agree with changing the sensors too.

 

[Quarter Horse]

I would replace the ect and oxygen sensors. Then reset the eec and get codes again. .

The cats are after the O2's, meaning the O2's don't know what the cats are doing or if they're even there. Don't worry about the cats unless you think they're clogged.
When ever I got both 172 and 176, it was because my MAF was dirty. This may not be the case for you this time.
556 might be from the car stalling. Or it might be from the dizzy going out. (after the initial FP time out, the rotation of the dizzy keeps the FP running)
I agree with changing the sensors too.

Ok, Thanks Guys. Then I will order up Some New o2 Sensors & ECT today. I will check back in once I have replaced them and what the out come was/is..... Thanks again for the GREAT HELP!!! :wink:

 

[CC'S95GT]

You might be able to test the coolant temp sensor similar to the way you test a thermostat.
Place the sensor in a cup of water and connect an OHM meter to the sensor. slowly heat the water and watch the OHMs change.