What next?

the5.ohh · Jan 12, 2013

Had a couple things done to my stang in the past couple weeks, CAI, 76mm maf, ratchet shifter and mac pro dumps. (Idk if its the combo of the cai, maf and pro dumps but my car feels a lot more peppier and can actually break loose lol) Anyways, lookin to do a couple things within the next 1-4 months or so. What should be done first? Cost is a factor

Maximum Motorsports Full Length Subframe connectors - $134.99 free shipping.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...s-Bare-Finish-Full-Length-Subframe-Connectors

Eibach Anti-Roll Sway Bars (Front & Rear) - $299.99 free shipping.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-swaybar-94-04-mustang.html

SVE Tubular Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms- $169.99 free shipping.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...-Tubular-Rear-Upper-And-Lower-Control-Arm-Kit

I want to put something in myself, so right now it's most likely going to be either the Rear Upper & Lower CA's or the sway bars. Which is easier to put in? I have tools and my friends got a lift so that's not an issue. Would it be best to get the CA's first? Eventually sway bars will be put in, subframe connectors, shocks/struts, new springs and caster camber plates. I wanna install something's myself and start to learn how to work on my car so I can keep installations to a minimum (except anything to do with welding or major motor work since I need to have the car every day)

toyman · Jan 12, 2013

I would leave the stock sway bars in as well as the upper and lower CA's unless the bushings are shot. The full length SFC's are more important for ride integrity.

Georgia331 · Jan 12, 2013

Subframe connectors are probably the most important on that list. Not only do they help with handling A LOT but it can also be considered as a safety item in my opinion since they make the car A LOT easier to handle on the road and won't hop over lanes like mine will when getting on it!

Cpotts13 · Jan 13, 2013

I posted this else where but you do not want to change the upper control arms on these cars as the stock allow enough bending to reduce binding the four link set up.

/I wouldnt get lower control arms until your car is lowered with new shocks and struts
//the eibach sway bars were "icing on the cake" to wrap up my suspension.. The stock ones allowed for a ton of body roll and the eibachs are a good bit thicker and firmed everything up nicely. That being said they
should be one of the very last things you do suspension wise.

And if you cant weld (very very well) then the subframe connectors are something that cant be done at home ( do not get the bolt on kind).

So in short if you are looking to upgrade your suspension here is what i suggest in order:

-New shocks and struts
-lowering springs and cc plates
-full length subframe connectors
-lower control arms
-eibach sway bars
-strut tower brace (if you dont already have one)

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

The car rides pretty soft and has decent handling which I really want to improve. I would need to get the subframes welded in so I'd do the sway bars and ca's first because I'll be able to do them. I don't want to have any stock suspension parts, there 18 years old I think its well over due for an upgrade lol. By changing the rear upper and lower control arms what will improve besides better launches?

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

I hear ya. Probably not going to lower it despite the hideous 4x4 stance, I can thank nyc and its crappy roads and 3 million bumps and potholes

Cpotts13 · Jan 13, 2013

Replacing the upper control arms will create a bind in the suspension, the stockers flex just enough for it to work. I would recommend just replacing the bushings. as for the lcas upgrading is good. I went with the J&M brand ones, you will only reallllly notice a difference if you have wider rear tires, just my opinion/experience..

I liked my eibach sway bars and they were definitely easy to install, so go for those!

I would still replace the shocks and struts first if they haven't been recently, because like you said they are 18 years old. .

RichV · Jan 13, 2013

My 0.02 cents ...

Subframes, great idea, get it done.
Swaybars, don't bother unless you do springs. Even then, do springs 1st, then figure out if you need them.
Upper and lower CAs, lowers YES!! Anything is better than stock, buy what you can afford, uppers do stock replacement, as stated.

Other things to consider...
Springs/shocks, match them
Front CA bushings, go with poly
Front rack bushings, poly
Tires, sticky compound

Cpotts13 · Jan 13, 2013

RichV said:
My 0.02 cents ...

Subframes, great idea, get it done.
Swaybars, don't bother unless you do springs. Even then, do springs 1st, then figure out if you need them.
Upper and lower CAs, lowers YES!! Anything is better than stock, buy what you can afford, uppers do stock replacement, as stated.

Other things to consider...
Springs/shocks, match them
Front CA bushings, go with poly
Front rack bushings, poly
Tires, sticky compound

+1....

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

Sounds great thanks for all the help guys.

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

Cpotts13 said:
Replacing the upper control arms will create a bind in the suspension, the stockers flex just enough for it to work. I would recommend just replacing the bushings. as for the lcas upgrading is good. I went with the J&M brand ones, you will only reallllly notice a difference if you have wider rear tires, just my opinion/experience..

I liked my eibach sway bars and they were definitely easy to install, so go for those!

I would still replace the shocks and struts first if they haven't been recently, because like you said they are 18 years old. .

So just replace the lower control arms and leave the stock uppers? Just trying to make sure I got this right lol. Eventually I'd like to get some wider tires, maybe 275/40s. I really want some 315s out back but I can't run D/R's gotta have regular all seasons. Would 275's be a big difference over stock 245s as far as width? I'm definately doing the eibach bars too. Shocks and struts are gonna go aswell, might go with KYB's, my brother just put them on his 91 GT and the ride is a thousand times better and tighter.

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

RichV said:
My 0.02 cents ...

Subframes, great idea, get it done.
Swaybars, don't bother unless you do springs. Even then, do springs 1st, then figure out if you need them.
Upper and lower CAs, lowers YES!! Anything is better than stock, buy what you can afford, uppers do stock replacement, as stated.

Other things to consider...
Springs/shocks, match them
Front CA bushings, go with poly
Front rack bushings, poly
Tires, sticky compound

Subframes will definately be on my list, just need to find a place that can weld them.
Springs- Are there any springs that only give a slight drop? Nothing that will need new C/C plates- Just drop the springs in and be done?
Shocks/Struts- Most likely going with KYB's
Front CA Bushings- Will get those, what exactly will it do for the handling though? - I'm a noob with suspension
Front rack bushings- Will get those aswell, I'm assuming for better handling right lol?
Tires- I got some good tires on the car now, they came new with it. So I gotta wait till they need replacing so I can buy new rims, keep the same ones up front and maybe get 275's for the rear.

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

Looking at these Rear LCA's
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rear-lower-controlarms-7998.html

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

Ford Racing B springs won't lower it too much right and won't require new CC plates?

RichV · Jan 13, 2013

the5.ohh said:
Subframes will definately be on my list, just need to find a place that can weld them.
Springs- Are there any springs that only give a slight drop? Nothing that will need new C/C plates- Just drop the springs in and be done?
Shocks/Struts- Most likely going with KYB's
Front CA Bushings- Will get those, what exactly will it do for the handling though? - I'm a noob with suspension
Front rack bushings- Will get those aswell, I'm assuming for better handling right lol?
Tires- I got some good tires on the car now, they came new with it. So I gotta wait till they need replacing so I can buy new rims, keep the same ones up front and maybe get 275's for the rear.

Most springs don't require CC plates, they are a good mod, but my 94 had BBK springs with stock CC plates. They were a 1.5" drop IIRC. The stiffness of the springs is what minimizes body roll and helps to keep the wheels in contact with pavement. With new springs you may need to get an alignment, when I lowered my SVO I never aligned it and it has been just fine. I'm sure some guys can answer if the SN95 absolutely requires an alignment or not after springs.

Struts, just make sure they play well with the spring rates you're choosing. A call to the distributor/manufacturer or google should answer that.

Front CA bushings, yours are probably worn out and loose, so just replacing them would be good. Going to poly just removes a lot of deflection you get in the up/down movement and front/rear movement. This is due to the stock bushings flexing. The downside you will get more feel in the road/bumps.

Rack bushings just give you a better road feel and crisper turn-in, it just feels much more responsive than the clapped out rubber bushings.

The tires are crucial to handling, soft and wide is good. The tires do everything, accelerate, turn, and stop.

The J&M control arms are great. I run the standard J&Ms on my race car (no spherical bushing) and was very suprised at their integrity after about 5 seasons of punishment with r-comp tires. R-comp tires tear up rear bushings like no tomorrow on road race cars. Also see pricing on www.hotpart.com

Cpotts13 · Jan 13, 2013

RichV said:
Struts, just make sure they play well with the spring rates you're choosing. A call to the distributor/manufacturer or google should answer that.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=tech_struts_shocks_matching_spring_rates

I second the J&M lower control arms, I have them and they work great!

Any of the frpp springs will lower it a tad. like under an inch.. the frpp b springs are progressive like your stock springs do they will be a better ride then the frpp c's (standard).

For shocks and struts Id recomend the tokico blues.. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/TOK-HB3140K/94-04-Mustang-Tokico-Hp-Series-Strut-Shock-Kit
Check this out: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=tech_struts_shocks_matching_spring_rates

the5.ohh · Jan 13, 2013

Thanks for the explanation Rich I appreciate it. I hope to lower it a bit, but definate things are sway bars, shocks and struts, rear LCA's, poly bushings. I heard tokico blues weren't that good?

RichV · Jan 13, 2013

I dunno about the blues, but if you have the ducks, go with some Bilsteins and H&R Super Sports.

Cpotts13 · Jan 13, 2013

RichV said:
I dunno about the blues, but if you have the ducks, go with some Bilsteins and H&R Sportlines.

Both me and my buddy are lowered with H&R super sports for 6k+ miles with the blues. mine are still super firm and nice!

I would recomend the koni str.t, alot of other guys are liking them. But i am a little hesitant because a friend of mine is having bad luck with them on his 2010.. Dunno..