Who are the 4.6L 2V experts?

[PinkieT]

$600 for a set of PI heads? were they ported? Local pick a part place near me sells heads for like $50 each, a little more if its OHC with cams included.
As for the best combination, honestly you could go either way. PI swap is great to have the added compression, and can take a wider range of cams. NPI heads coil bind around .540", so in stock form they need lower lift cams. The heads can be modified, but few people do so. Another thing I want to do someday.

Honestly, if i had PI heads and intake sitting there already, I'd want to use them.

The only fly in that ointment is if you're doing all this in the car, in less than ideal conditions.
I've done swaps like this, and if I did it, id pull the engine and put it on a stand. Call me lazy but its much easier.
The cam/intake swap is more of a low buck simple thing to do. The headswap is more involved. Yes it nets a few HP, but I don't know what youre used to or what kind of a shop youd do this in.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
edited because i am a bad proofreader lol

Thanks for your input. End goal - improve on the stock NPI power without breaking the bank. Car is a cruiser, maybe autocross, but not a drag car.

To clarify, around $600 is what I see Comp Cams and others aftermarket cam pairs go for new. I have half that in my brand new shiny unmolested Ford PI heads with the stock cams. I have a pick a part nearby where I can get a pair of used cams for under $100 but I am leery of putting boneyard cams in. I did the heads myself I would pull the motor. That ain't lazy in my book, it's working smart! Shop I would use locally is The Snake Pit https://www.tspspeedshop.com/. Heard lots of good things about them. Being a retiree with limited income, I am tempted to meet in the middle - I pull the motor, let them do the engine work, and put it back in myself. Either way, might as well replace the clutch while I'm in there, right?

 

[OLD H2S]

I got PI+ cams for you, mild, made for low lift NPI heads from Bullet Cams..300.00

 

[delling3]

Been collecting everything I need for the PI CAM and INTAKE swap. I am getting ready to place an RockAuto order for some items that I have not yet acquired, and would appreciate it if you guys can review and let me know if I am missing anything:

P.I style heater tube and nipple
New 180° T-stat and O-ring
New Water Pump and O-ring
PI Intake
PI Cams
PI Intake gaskets
Fuel Injector O-rings
Timing Chain Set
Valve Cover gaskets
Hi-temp RTV
OTC Camshaft positioning tools
Assembly lube
Coolant

Am I missing anything? Engine currently sitting at 96,000 miles. New wires and plugs less than 2000 miles ago.

 

[lwarrior1016]

You don’t need timing chains or the otc cam tool. Swap your cam gears to the new cams and replace the chain guides and tensioner arms. And you don’t necessarily need assembly lube either. Engine oil will do just fine.

 

[Silver95bird]

at 96k i agree, get the chain guides. the chains will be fine.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[delling3]

I figured the chains were probably just fine, but isn't it "cheap insurance"? Are OEM parts with 96K on them better than new Cloyes chains?

I already have the OTC tools. Reading thru the process in Chilton, the tools clearly are part of the process. If they aren't required, what changes are there to the process?

 

[Silver95bird]

ive seen 200k chains still be serviceable, but 150k chain guides be shot. If you want both, do both, but if you cut a corner don't let the guides be it.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[96blak54]

Be sure its a Ford pi intake otherwise youll be disappointed! Nothing runs like the Ford.

I agree with using the original timing set if the engine is original to the car. Other 4.6l from other models have been known to have junk timing components. Get the front cover off, inspect the components, go from there.

If the engine is original, the tentioners are most likely cast iron and the guides are cast aluminum and steel with plastic slides. Those slides are replaceable, further reducing your costs.

Look at the cams to be used, report back the part #'s. Both left and right

Are the cams pressed on sprockets or bolt on?

Do you know what the heads are from?

 

[delling3]

Using pi cams in npi heads. Cams have bolt on gears. Don’t know how to differentiate between L & R camshafts. My eyes aren’t good enough to read the pn’s. They came from a 2001 GT. Seller didn’t include gears, but included bolts and spacers. Intake is a Ford performance intake - not a Dorman. Engine is stock and original to the car.

 

[96blak54]

Gears off and cant read the pn's....hmmm....this could be tricky.

 

[lwarrior1016]

if I’m remembering correctly, the cams will only go in on the correct side. When installed going forward, I don’t think you can mix them up. Lobe offset and cam journal offset won’t let you mix them up.

the heads are reversible yes, but if you move the right head to the left bank then you’ll still use the left cam.

 

[OLD H2S]

True, just pull the valve covers and hand match the cams.

 

[Silver95bird]

just make sure the drivers side cam gear stays on the drivers side - you need the pickup for the cam sensor.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[delling3]

After more careful inspection (bright light, readers and a magnifying glass!) I find that the cams are "Krupp Presta" - a part of Thyssen Krupp that is confirmed to have made the OEM camshafts for the GT.

Looks like two part numbers per camshaft that I can see are stamped "1L2E 5A274 CA" and "1845400" on the first camshaft, and "1L2E 6A274CA" and "2772344" on the other. Do these numbers mean anything to you guys?

 

[Silver95bird]

standard 01+ romeo camshafts, anything else blak96gt?

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[96blak54]

He scored good with the cams!

 

[delling3]

Ok, good to know I got the right ones! The cams appear identical. They appear to be interchangeable. Is it the cam gears that prevent from swapping cams?

 

[96blak54]

I agree with "identical" now that you stated it. Do me a favor and place the cams side by side with the key ways at 12o'clock and look them down real good. If they are identical, then you have a problem.

 

[96blak54]

I cant remember which part # is for what side, but i do know a matched cam set of passenger and driver side is not the same #. Typically a # containing 274 and 250 is a matched set. Ill search it to help me remember

 

[96blak54]

I search it and im more confused now. Anyhow, look the cams over like i described. Itll be easy to spot if the are identical.....meaning not a matched left/right set.