Woofer/Electronics Cut out Randomly - Help!

Zgadson · Sep 6, 2010

New problem (and I'm thinking its the alternator). I've got reverse glow gauges, and a woofer in my car as the only added electronics, but my car likes to randomly shut them both off whether I'm at a complete stop, speeding up, or coming to a stop. They only come back in when I turn the whole car off and back on. I can make them shut off if I floor the car, so I'm thinking I've ever got a ground issue, or the alternator is dying. Could also be the battery I guess.

Anyone else ever have a similar issue with powering your electronics? I don't want to go blow money on parts I may not need.

ttocs · Sep 6, 2010

if it is just your dash lights and subwoofer that you hooked up I have no idea. IF there is a connection that is common between them then you did something wrong to be honest. I would start by ensuring that all bare wires are insulated and cannot short out but if you had alt issues there would be more then just those two things dying.

Is the radio still stock?

Zgadson · Sep 6, 2010

Yea - still have the stock stereo in. The woofer and reverse glow gauges are not connected in any way, which is why I was thinking the alternator or battery could be the issue.

ttocs · Sep 6, 2010

if just those two go out, no i would suspect something with your wiring as the lights, windows, everything would go out if it was the alt not just those two.

I would triple check your wiring, turn the key on and check the wiring by giving a good jerk on its connections and along the wire to see if you can get the problem to come back. Don't be afraid to give them a good pull as there should be no chance that they just vibrate loose on their own.

If you used T-tapps, twist nuts or some other type of connection that is not crimp or solder then replace them with a good crimp connection or a soldered connection. I know those gauge kits come with T-taps and they have ABSOLUTELY no use in car audio/security.

Zgadson · Sep 7, 2010

I checked all the connections and rewired everything. Even chose a different fuse to connnect the remote power wire to for the amp. At a complete stop, with the engine on or off, the woofer works fine UNTIL I turn on something else electrical - headlights, AC, brakes, etc, the woofer cuts out.

I had this same woofer/amp in 3 other cars and it worked fine in all of them, so I know my equipment is in good condition. What am I missing? I'm really leading to the battery or alternator being the problem. Am I right?

ttocs · Sep 7, 2010

no aftermarket amp should be wire up to a fusebox first and foremost. They are capable of pulling too much current and you can very easily overload the wires supplying that power to the box. The power wire should go to the battery and be fused with in 12 inches of the battery, there are no other options for that...

Zgadson · Sep 7, 2010

I may not be the brightest crayon in the box, but I'm not an idiot. The nice, thick 12+ is wired to the battery directly with an inline fuse several inches away from the battery like its supposed to be. The remote wire for the amp that is connected to the fuse box and tapped into the stereo fuse so the amp only draws power when the stereo is on.

Zgadson · Sep 7, 2010

Just had Advanced Auto Parts test my battery only to find that a cell was bad. I had them put in an Optima Red Top battery, and now the car starts nicely and even the windows seem to work faster (though its probably just my imagination), but the woofer still shuts off whenever any other electronics are used - windows, lights, etc. I have to actually turn off the car and start it again for the woofer to kick back on. This is getting annoying.

ttocs · Sep 8, 2010

THE POWER WIRE FOR ANY AFTERMARKET AMP SHOULD GO TO THE BATTERY! It is not one of those things that has to be done because it looks good, it is out of necesity.

You really have two options:
1.)install the power wire correctly and run it to the battery fused with in 12" of the battery.
2.)install a fire extinguisher, upgrade your insurance and pray for the best!

I have seen alot of poeple turn holy and start prayin only to pay me to fix it later. The repairs that this cheated install can cost would far exceed the amp/subs value....

Zgadson · Sep 8, 2010

ttocs said:
THE POWER WIRE FOR ANY AFTERMARKET AMP SHOULD GO TO THE BATTERY! It is not one of those things that has to be done because it looks good, it is out of necesity.

You really have two options:
1.)install the power wire correctly and run it to the battery fused with in 12" of the battery.
2.)install a fire extinguisher, upgrade your insurance and pray for the best!

I have seen alot of poeple turn holy and start prayin only to pay me to fix it later. The repairs that this cheated install can cost would far exceed the amp/subs value....

I don't see what's so hard to understand. Look up at my last few posts! It clearly says that the 12 volt power wire IS attached DIRECTLY to the battery WITH a fuse. The REMOTE wire is connected to the stereo fuse - this wire has absolutely nothing to do with 12+ power. It only allows the 12+ wire to pull battery power when the car is running. Those of you with amps know what I'm talking about - its not rocket science. wtf?

CanaryGT · Sep 13, 2010

So you're saying that you're remote wire is hooked up to your 12volt switched and you are running your standard (4,8,whatever) gauge power wire to your amp. And when you turn on other electronic components your stuff shuts off.... Hmmm...

Honestly I have no idea. Do you have a friend that can test voltage etc when you turn on other components?