2v budget build.

OLD H2S

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You can run any cam on 90 pound springs. The problem is to what RPM... in autocross you are slamming 2 gear to beyond redline for 60 seconds at a run. Then what is the rear gear? This will help tell what your RPM is going to be at 60MPH. Next what intake manifold and what size throttle body? The Ford manifold is designed to quit flowing at 5200RPM, they will rev to the moon if the heads and throttle body are big enough but the rate of rise is slower, limited by the manifold runner length and size. A big cam in autocross causes the "lightswitch" effect, the RPM gets high enough and wham your in the powerband for that cam and slamming the brakes and you just turned off the lights. In racing slow is smooth and smooth is fast, being able to both accelerate and compression brake the car with just the gas peddle is smooth and keeps you from using as much brake which upsets the balance by transferring too much weight to the front end, then you start all over at the next cone, a very manic car is draining to drive fast. The fast cars I see are easy to drive and look slow and do not look and act like some one has wasps in the cabin.
 

B.mad

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Pretty good progress! It seems like you have quite the help with the 2v, but if you need anything about suspension and such, I might be able to help with that!
 

96blak54

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What im thinking, get the compression up to mild. Something like 11.1. Use all the stock components untill you feel its time to upgrade. OLD H2S makes a good point smoothing out your racing line. Only makes sense to set the car up for curves.

I will say the stock mustang pi cam along with its heavy floating valves and the modulars artistic valve train, i cant see why 6500rpm isnt possible with the right gearing. Gotta figure out how to delay that exhaust opening. Ford GT supercar lashers and matching followers helps and allows running hevier weight oil, which im sure will favor for the road courses. The GT lashers may not offer the exhaust float needed for overlap.....idk.

But if youre dead set on ordering parts, the comp 262, your stock valves and springs, long tube headers should be fun.

But if it were me, id find a way to control grind / remove 20° off the exhaust opening on them mustang cams....keep it cheap!
 
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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could some one go over what are the important numbers and why are they important, and also what I need to be concerned with when looking at them.
as it stands now I have written down all of the cam specs in a 3 panel comparison chart for the comp cam XE262H, XE262AH, and XE268H if anyone needs I can post up all the specs for all three cams. I'm not tossing out OLD H2S idea just looking at all the options. I do want to choose a cam with a noticeable change in the sound of idol that ones just my preference.

were able to order some fel-pro valve stem seals, summit short throw shifter for the 3650, some valve springs (just incase the tell me I can't use my stock ones for somereaosn) and intake manifold gaskets
 
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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Pretty good progress! It seems like you have quite the help with the 2v, but if you need anything about suspension and such, I might be able to help with that!
with out a doubt sir as soon as I get this motor situated I will that is going to be my next set up to attack...
Plan to change out all the bushings for polyurethane and a few other things to get the suppression dialed in, I had some good weld on sub frame connectors but had to sell them while the car was down to cover some bills.
 

96blak54

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First off "they" will tell you to buy new valve springs cause its product. Im running stock springs with comp 274 cams and dang does it run! If the springs were required to handle the valve, rocker, push rods like an in the block cam...then yea, get the springs. Choose to save the money.
 

B.mad

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with out a doubt sir as soon as I get this motor situated I will that is going to be my next set up to attack...
Plan to change out all the bushings for polyurethane and a few other things to get the suppression dialed in, I had some good weld on sub frame connectors but had to sell them while the car was down to cover some bills.


Thats a good start! Just let me know!!
 
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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First off "they" will tell you to buy new valve springs cause its product. Im running stock springs with comp 274 cams and dang does it run! If the springs were required to handle the valve, rocker, push rods like an in the block cam...then yea, get the springs. Choose to save the money.

Ok well as I see it I will run a comp 262AH cam with my stock valve springs retainers and keeps and only mill the head 40 thousandth to stay safe from any valve to piston issues.


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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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That’s also means when this is all said and done I will have a set of Romeo PI heads and also a set of well maintained NPI heads and a spare short block in the shed [emoji848][emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]


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96blak54

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Ok well as I see it I will run a comp 262AH cam with my stock valve springs retainers and keeps and only mill the head 40 thousandth to stay safe from any valve to piston issues.


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Wait a minute. You deck the head .040" that puts the intake valve closer to the piston. Most folks are good swapping in the 262 without decking. Decking will decrease piston to valve clearance and i cant tell you with certainty that your build won't have interference problems.

Doesnt this suck! Only sure positive way to ensure adequate clearances is to notch pistons. Either pull the pistons out or notch while installed. Pulling means hone glaze breaking and new rings. Not a big deal and 100% revives the cylinders. More positives than negatives here!

You get pistons notched, you can use whatever cam you want.
 
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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Wait a minute. You deck the head .040" that puts the intake valve closer to the piston. Most folks are good swapping in the 262 without decking. Decking will decrease piston to valve clearance and i cant tell you with certainty that your build won't have interference problems.

Doesnt this suck! Only sure positive way to ensure adequate clearances is to notch pistons. Either pull the pistons out or notch while installed. Pulling means hone glaze breaking and new rings. Not a big deal and 100% revives the cylinders. More positives than negatives here!

You get pistons notched, you can use whatever cam you want.

96black54,
I haven't actually had anything done to them yet that I know of. The heads are at the shop now when I stopped by yesterday he had only cleaned the valves up and bled the lifters, but when I left I had mentioned that I had wanted to change from .030" to .040" milled off the heads.

ive only been looking at doing this after talking to "OLD H2S" and was saying that his were decked .080" I dont know what to think now....just call the machine shop tell them to make a skim pass and then leave them alone??:confused1:

is there an (flame suit on!) "EASY" way to check valve to piston clearance?

Also what about this spare 4.6 block I have if I do end up getting reliefs cut would it be better to use the npi pistons or the pi pistons?
although honestly I am thinking of just not milling the heads I would like to save this second motor to do a forced induction build in the some what near future
 
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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can any one aid in helping me out I will be ordering Comp Cam XE262AH
and am wondering can I use the stock cam gear from the romeo heads that I have laying around for sale.... if so then I want to remove them and use them before the do sell.
I would replace the bolts if need be but after looking at them I don't see any wear to indicate replacing them
thanks for help in advance
 

lwarrior1016

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You can use your Romeo gears, no problem. Depending on what size your stock cam bolts are, you may need to get new bolts for the new cams.
 
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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You can use your Romeo gears, no problem. Depending on what size your stock cam bolts are, you may need to get new bolts for the new cams.
so the comp cams I purchase will have the correct keying for the cam gears?
also just out of curiosity I noticed the romeo cams are bigger ( at least in diameter)
will this affect anything?
 

lwarrior1016

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The factory gears should bolt up to any aftermarket cam you get. You say the Romeo cams are bigger, in what sense do you mean?
 
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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The factory gears should bolt up to any aftermarket cam you get. You say the Romeo cams are bigger, in what sense do you mean?

The overall width of the cam shaft the Romeo measuring at 1.432
And the Windsor measuring at 1.108
I have pics from when I measured them if you need to see.


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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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Well the time is finally here getting everything situated in shop to get this done over the weekend I will be bringing it in Wednesday night and hopefully done swapping everything over by Friday and then putting the motor in the car Friday night.

Heads are finally back together final decision was to mill the head .40 and use the comp 262AH cam
THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT HELP ME OUT IN PIECING THESE THINGS TOGETHER!

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Now she’s just waiting
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pgfdv6

pgfdv6

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so turns out that this application isn't going to work out I am having PTV issues looks to be that the intake valves are just "kissing" the pistons...

so I started to look in to my options and I started thinking to switch to a thicker head gasket since its so close... the research I I did said the stock HG is 30mm with a 90mm bore after looking around I came across a few HG that were 36mm with a 94mm bore cant seem to fine one that is 36mm thickness with a 90mm bore.
I also spoke to a tech at modular head shop and after several minutes of mocking/asking why I cut the head .040" he said that I would need at least a .060" head gasket.

Thoughts? recommendations?

my second option I was thinking about is to just re use the heads I took off since it turns out that the gentleman I purchased the motor from had no clue that the PI Swap had already been done. I would just take my cams and swap them in for the stock cams.
only thing worried about here is I did not take the heads off in sequence order.
 

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