95 plenum set up 1st timedoing

ttocs

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If you do not want to port the intakes then you can reduce the tb down to 70mm and save some cash. I was surprised to see the throat was only 70mm since I rarely see anything on top of the motor smaller then 75mm no matter if its boosted or not. I ported mine because of the vortech and thought you were hoping for some boost one day as well.

I have been confused where to go for tuning just because until recently we had one tuner in town and his reputation was a little lower then I wanted to risk. I will be needing a tune for sure because of all the changes I have made from the vortech/meth to removing the EGR/emissions crap going on the top of the trickflow heads/cam I already had. Then suddenly a new shop opened up with a dyno this summer so I am waiting till they run a few cars through it to see what they are like. If I had my way I would rather take it to a good dyno rather then learn the tuning software and hardware it controls just to be able to know its done right.

If you get your car on the dyno and can't get it to idle a little at first I would hazard to say that there is a bigger problem that the tune can't fix.
 

Addermk2

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What's a ballpark figure for a remote tune?

About $250 give or take.

Once you own the proper equipment, which is about a $350 investment. Then subtract an easy $150 from selling your SCT chip.

OR you could rent a remote tuning setup, and the tuner can burn your new tune to a chip. End cost is about $350.
 
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ranger56528

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For me to get up on a Dyno I would need to trailer to MPLS or there is a Good Dyno tuner in South Dakota also about same distance and I'm not sure if there is a Dyno tuner in Fargo ND. Dave said the guy in South Dakota would be the best. I can all ways go bigger on MAF and TP if the need comes around but for now I'll stay with the BBK that's on now.

For now I'm going to go ahead and start the R&R on the cam,heads,headers and exhaust and while I do that I will be figuring out what to do with tuning the obd1 system...
 
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ranger56528

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I'll get my gt40 and e303 installed get it running and go from there,I don't think I need to go 24lb inj till I plan on 425-450 so for now the 19s should be just fine with whatever I do.
 

Addermk2

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I don't think I need to go 24lb inj till I plan on 425-450 so for now the 19s should be just fine with whatever I do.

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ranger56528

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Really figured 24 would be overkill for what I'm doing,so do tell also is the Moates chip a way for me to go till I figure out things,seems I can call them with what I have and they will wright a basic tune for a reasonable cost.



By the way Adder I unofficially named the GTS...........The Turd........hahaha thought it was fitting.
 
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ranger56528

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Is this a viable way to go for me being no Dyno or tuner around me and I think This is what dave was talking about.

QH with base tune and wideband.......579.00 and it sounds like what he wants,to be able to drive and adjust tune or go with F3 and burner with wideband.....
 
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ranger56528

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Ok Thanks, so putting 24# injectors in with a 24# calibrated MAF say 90mm would not be overkill for what I'm doing with my 70mm TB?
 

Addermk2

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I wouldn't let willy tune my radio... nevermind a car.
 
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ranger56528

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I'll be doing the R&R this week and should have it all back together by Sat, I'm still waiting for some bolt on things like new exhaust and a under size pulley kit and also will install my my gauge pod on the drive side roof column,putting oil and water temp there plus I have a few other things coming.
Still need to order shift kit and new converter for tranny.
 
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ranger56528

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So I will be ok using the 76/19 MAF with 24# injectors ???...or should I just get a 76/24 MAF and 24# injectors and then wright down all my info and send it to dirty for a one time tune chip at 199 bucks and then I can spend more time figuring out what way to go with a tuner and programmable unit that Dave can use to really tune my 95...about 600 plus license agreement is about what I've seen so far.
 

Nuttinbutcrumbs

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So I will be ok using the 76/19 MAF with 24# injectors ???...or should I just get a 76/24 MAF and 24# injectors and then wright down all my info and send it to dirty for a one time tune chip at 199 bucks and then I can spend more time figuring out what way to go with a tuner and programmable unit that Dave can use to really tune my 95...about 600 plus license agreement is about what I've seen so far.
Keep the MAF that you have now, buy 24# injectors, and get a "one time tune". Or you could get a maf that's "calibrated" for 24's. You wouldn't "need" a tune if you go the second route but since you'll "want" a tune anyway there's no need in buying another maf.
*Disclaimer* I'm far from expert in regards to tuning but this is my laypersons understand of MAF's and injectors. A tune can and will make any maf work with any injector size. The 95/94 GT's and cobra's came with the same maf but the gt had 19 lb'ers and the cobra had 24's. The difference is the cobra ecu is "tuned" for the 24's and the GT's is tuned for the 19's. Pretend that you still had the stock maf and you were changing injector sizes. You wouldn't have to purchase a new maf as long as you had the ecu tuned. The "calibrated" MAF's are to be used in lieu of a tune, I think it's a kinda "they get it close enough" type of deals.
If you were to use your current maf with the 24's it wouldn't work with out a tune. I'm sure some of the experienced guys could chime in and give a more on the technical side of things, but that's pretty much the general rundown.


Don't Sext and Drive.
 
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ranger56528

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See that's what I like.....so if I put 24# injectors in and keep the 76mm 19# MAF I can the just write down what I've done i.e. Valves,lift duration,MAF size,injector size,tire size,rear diff( I have a auto so that's not included) TB size ect ect and send it to Dirty and they will do a one time tune for 199.00 and that's cheaper then a new MAF and I'm good to go while I do the rest...

Or just say heck with it spend the extre 40 bucks and just buy a 24 MAF and be done with it untill I can figure out what to buy for a tuner/programmer.....option 2 seems better.
 
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ranger56528

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Got side tracked today and putting my new front struts on and new black rotors with new red clippers,should look nice and when done I have a few other things to do on it before it gets torn down and not running. Figured I would do all the add on/ replacement parts then get into doing the cam and heads.
ill get the 4.10 Ford racing gears and kit in also before I tear it down,might as well have it all ready to roll and go when I'm done with the engine and this also gives me more time to figure out the tuning and programming stuff.
 
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ranger56528

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Well I got the KYB front struts on along with my Black rotors and Red caliber's front and rear and then bled the system and tomorrow I will be putting my undersize pulleys on with a new Alt and while I have the alt off I will be removing the smog pump and bracket being I have a chrome bracket for just the alt and also will be putting on the smog pump delete pulley( ya smaller belt but I have the pulley)then I need to find the o2 sensor hook ups being the o2 s are not on the h pipe being used now then I'll R&R the headers with new tuned BBK shorties with a BBK H pipe with o2 sensors and then I have a set of Pypes to run out the back with 3.5 rolled tips.........Now I did order a one time tune with all the mods I've done and also have a set of Ford racing 24# injectors coming along with a new BBK 5010 fuel rail kit( I called tech and they said it would work with after market intake)that will work with my intake,they also said the chip might work with e cam and Alum GT40 heads if not they will upgrade the chip free so this will get me to where I want to be at this time.
Finding a Programmer Tuner is going to be harder then I thought for obd1 there are a few options out there that take little to a lot of learning so I need to sit back chill out and figure out what and where I want to go with my build before I spend 600-1200 bucks on a programmer tuner. So this is where I am at 1:10 in the am.
Soon as I get the chip and put it in I will let you know how it runs with 19# MAF and 19# injectors and then I'll put in the 24# injectors with the new rail and see how it goes and then lastly I'll try it with my 24# MAF but think I should buy a 225 fuel pump and put in will see how it does with stock 1st,so right now it's running pretty good but can always be better.
 
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ranger56528

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I've learned a lot here and hardly scratched the surface on what can be done and what not to do,big thanks to this forum and the folks that really know their stuff.

I was a Counterman for 16 years and a good one from what I was told got out in 96 but I was in the game before fuel injection was the main stay,our store/ shop had a complete machine shop all the way to welding alum heads,had a tech specially trained just for heads and had another just for cranks and another just for line boarding and honing we even had our own line of motors and also sold Four Star motors back then,I've been out of the parts biz for just about 20 years now and man has it changed. We used catalogs to look up parts not computers,computers were for invoicing not looking up parts,that started about 92-93 and we hated it couldn't trust it but now parts man have no clue about catalogs for the most part,if the computer says no then it's no or wrong,we knew how to chase catalogs to get what the customer needed.........Ya I know the programs are 100 times better now then when I was in the game.
 

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