95gt alternator problem

[acomaelkhunter]

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[CC'S95GT]

just looks like they were wrapped with electrical tape. unless there is more that I am missing. How does the wire and connector look under the cover?

 

[acomaelkhunter]

it does look like they were wrapped in electical tape, the wires look better as the go toward the fuse box where they were covered by the heat shield. the connector to the white wire is broken. the black wire connector looks fine.

 

[acomaelkhunter]

thanks for the tip...posted pics of my mustang on my visitor page

 

[ttocs]

your plug wires are not stock by the look at it I would not think they would be a problem, nor is the connector. When you replaced that factory ground did you scrape the paint/rust off to ensure a good connection?

 

[acomaelkhunter]

okay...went back to the body ground. took the wires off and cleaned the connections with wire brush, as well as the contact points. vehicle is running better then before. after new alternator and solid ground. volt meter is reading 14.3 v. thank you ttocs and cc's95gt for your help....cruizing...next project is 24# injectors and MAF.

 

[ttocs]

man for some reason I knew it was a ground, they are always a biatch to figure out. It doesn't take much corrosion or paint to get in the way of a ground from making solid contact and completely change how things are supposed to work.

 

[CC'S95GT]

glad you got it.

 

[acomaelkhunter]

so this problem is reacurring! i need a ford electrician!!!! the alternator only works when the car is hot....i changed the alternator, belt, alternator plugs (yeah new plugs to the stator and 3 pin), checked the grounds and fuse. not charging in the morning or eve....starts working on its own, like rolling a dice when i turn the ignition????

 

[ttocs]

ahh damn that sucks..... Its possible that some corrosion has gotten back into the connections or maybe even a bolt made its way loose? Start simple and check everything over again. Grabe the grounds and give a good tug/pull (we all know how) and see if they are loose or move AT ALL. A solid ground should be able to take a good pull and not move or come loose.

 

[acomaelkhunter]

changing out the neg ground wire to the block next!!!!! i have a new positive battery wire to the starter and fuse box

 

[acomaelkhunter]

new neg wire from battery post to block. same problem. alternator only charging when vehicle is "hot".

 

[chrisv_10]

I would take the alternator and the battery to the at auto parts store and have them check em

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[ttocs]

start the car and go give some good tuugs/pulls on the wires for the alt and see if it does anything. If nothing happens try rappin yer knuckles on it(don't punch it no matter how much you want too) and see if any loose connections inside do anthing.

I learned my first freshman year in tech school that those raps with your knuckles can be called "technical taps" when you are billing someone to find the problem. You would be suprised how often in my tech career million dollar equipment(semi conductor manf fac) was either trouble-shot with them, or fixed with them. Now if you fix something with them no longer is a technical tap and you are required to say "AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA" afterwards and allowed one fonzy pose.

 

[CC'S95GT]

I called it a "vibra-sonic adjustment".
I never thought about the Fonsy pose though. I lol'd

 

[ttocs]

only allowed one pose so make it a good worth your, and our time. When its pulled off correctly its always a crowd pleaser.....

 

[acomaelkhunter]

i actually did the knuckle rap with the butt end of a hammer on the alternator with the volt meter attached and also had it checked at the parts store. operation normal and no changes on the volt meter. it's wierd that once it heats up it works.? i thinking of dropping 60 bucks for a new alternator to fuseblock fusable link 4 gauge wire harness. but dayam....i rather be saying "AAAAAAAAAAAAA"

 

[ttocs]

$60 give me a break you can go buy high quality 4 awg cable and some ring terminals for half that price but I don't think it will matter. disconnect the wire from one side and measure its resistance but as long as there is even continuity on the wire it should work. I would look more at what is controlling the alt and why it is going on/off. I have never looked into it that far myself but I do not understand why it would charge at one time but not another. If all the connections are confirmed good I would wonder more about the computer or the connections between it and the alt(little wires)

 

[acomaelkhunter]

voltage readings: battery post neg to positive - 12v and slowly dropping; alt "hot" wire to neg battery post - 18v; alt "hot" wire to positive battery terminal 12v and slowly dropping; alt "hot" wire to alt casing 18v. stator wire - 6v; ohm reading from white/yellow wire to fuse in engine bay shows connectivity.

 

[ttocs]

if your reading 18v out of the alt you either have a bad alt or a bad meter..... Measuring from the alts hot lug to the battery terminal should be close to 0 v. It would be the same as touching both the neg/pos lead of the meter on the batteries + terminal.