Aluminum driveshaft questions…

96blak54

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Ford made a plethora of aluminum driveshafts for all their rear drive vehicles except for the mustang. You may want to check driveshaft lengths from the other vehicles that got them like 2wd, 4wd explorers and ranger short bed single cab or short bed single cab 4x4, which would be 2 different lengths.
 

Rons95GT

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I just talked with Chris at Silver Sport Transmission in TN. The TKX has a shorter bell housing so requires a longer-than-stock driveshaft. He emailed me a measurements form which I will ask my shop to measure and fill in for me. $499 + a la carte upgrades…

Here’s a copy & paste of his email to me:

$499.00 Performance Driveline Engineering driveshaft, including Spicer slip yoke, Spicer high-performance solid hub sealed u-joints, Spicer weld flanges, dynamic 2-axis balanced and painted
OPTIONS:
Add $99 for 1350 slip yoke
Add $75 for DOM Seamless tube upgrade
Add $129 for Chromoly Steel tube upgrade
Add $195 for Aluminum tube upgrade
Add $99 for Fox/SN95 cars with flanged pinion yoke
It’s been a lot of years since I bought my Ford Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft for $149 (before it was called Ford Racing), but I went to a Tremec 5-speed and had the issue with it being 1” or so too short. There used to be machined spacers with longer bolts available to fix the issue and I’ve been running that for many years without problems with 514 rwhp. Multiple companies made the spacers, but I don’t know if they still do. Try Tremec, Steeda, or LMR.
 

leearnold.1122

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Ford made a plethora of aluminum driveshafts for all their rear drive vehicles except for the mustang. You may want to check driveshaft lengths from the other vehicles that got them like 2wd, 4wd explorers and ranger short bed single cab or short bed single cab 4x4, which would be 2 different lengths.
My last one cost $735. It's chromoly steel with 1350 u-joints and I purchased a Sonnax slip yoke for $172 from Summit. My story on why I now own three driveshafts is too long to write. It was a lesson well learned but very expensive. My last one was the most expensive but well worth it. The 3.5" chromoly seamless tube was so perfect it didn't need any weights to balance it. It just clears everything in the tunnel. I had the other two balanced as well. I have a T56 Magnum and a Moser 9" rear end so I had to get a new driveshaft because of the power my little 4.6 makes. Craftsmanship means everything when building nice parts. Here's a picture of the weld this builder makes and one from the builder before with the 3" seamless tube. There's the difference. They were both mig welded by hand. Get a picture of their work if you can or look when you go if you go in person. MAKE SURE IT'S BALANCED!
It’s been a lot of years since I bought my Ford Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft for $149 (before it was called Ford Racing), but I went to a Tremec 5-speed and had the issue with it being 1” or so too short. There used to be machined spacers with longer bolts available to fix the issue and I’ve been running that for many years without problems with 514 rwhp. Multiple companies made the spacers, but I don’t know if they still do. Try Tremec, Steeda, or LMR.

20240321_141057.jpg
 

leearnold.1122

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My last one cost $735. It's chromoly steel with 1350 u-joints and I purchased a Sonnax slip yoke for $172 from Summit. My story on why I now own three driveshafts is too long to write. It was a lesson well learned but very expensive. My last one was the most expensive but well worth it. The 3.5" chromoly seamless tube was so perfect it didn't need any weights to balance it. It just clears everything in the tunnel. I had the other two balanced as well. I have a T56 Magnum and a Moser 9" rear end so I had to get a new driveshaft because of the power my little 4.6 makes. Craftsmanship means everything when building nice parts. Here's a picture of the weld this builder makes and one from the builder before with the 3" seamless tube. There's the difference. They were both mig welded by hand. Get a picture of their work if you can or look when you go if you go in person. MAKE SURE IT'S BALANCED!


View attachment 33961
One more very important part of getting the right driveshaft is the length of it. It should have 1"-1.5" of space between the slip yoke and transmission flange at ride height. Any less and you could brake something. Any more and you'll have a vibration issue. If it's not properly balanced you'll have a vibration issue. Good luck with your project.
 
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Daryl

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Thx, all! I contacted my shop. They’re cool with doing the measurements, etc. but the question came up of fitment/diameter. With the torque arm, et al, there may not be room for the larger diameter aluminum driveshaft. I’ll get over there sometime this week and see if it’ll work.
Let ya know…. (fingers crossed)
 

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