Bottom end is toast - Need Guidance

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Freefallin

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The throttle cable definitely will. 99.99999% sure the fuel rails will. Only way it wouldn't is if it were some odd Edelbrock specific fuel rail.
Why not use the Edelbrock top end stuff though?

Well I could use my current top end minus my PI heads and Comp Cams and just pulley way back up and keep meth so it's safe. But I was just concerned that the 90mm tb/plenum and Vic Jr. would be overkill for a stock bottom end and stock heads/cams. Thoughts? Because if I DID NOT use my Eddy intake and 90mm TB/Plenum, I would be forced to run my NPI intake and stock TB/Plenum which would be fine, but I am just struggling with what to do!

Just found a 60k mile 2005 Town Car motor for $650 out the door which doesnt seem too bad at all.

Sean
 

lwarrior1016

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You will out a long Allen wrench through the hole where the side bolts go into the main cap. It's either 6mm or 8mm I can't remember specifically. You will tighten them against the main cap. Then the caps come out real easy.
 
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Freefallin

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You will out a long Allen wrench through the hole where the side bolts go into the main cap. It's either 6mm or 8mm I can't remember specifically. You will tighten them against the main cap. Then the caps come out real easy.

Wow that is good to know, thanks man! What am I looking for exactly regarding the condition of my crank?

May be picking up a 60k mile 05 TC motor this week for $650 but haven't fully decided that's the route I should go.
 
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Freefallin

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Didn't make it to the garage last night, but still giving this Lincoln motor some thought. $650 for a 60k mile motor seems like a pretty good deal. If I went this route, I was thinking of selling my 3.12 and 2.75 pullies for a 3.33 so I can run about 8/9psi on the stock motor. I will likely keep meth and my current stock MAF and MAFia if I go this route, as the car shouldn't make more than 400 whp with that setup. I would then set my shortblock aside and start saving for a forged rotating assembly...

Sean
 

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Didn't make it to the garage last night, but still giving this Lincoln motor some thought. $650 for a 60k mile motor seems like a pretty good deal. If I went this route, I was thinking of selling my 3.12 and 2.75 pullies for a 3.33 so I can run about 8/9psi on the stock motor. I will likely keep meth and my current stock MAF and MAFia if I go this route, as the car shouldn't make more than 400 whp with that setup. I would then set my shortblock aside and start saving for a forged rotating assembly...

Sean

This is exactly what I'm doing basically.
 
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Freefallin

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What would a fair price be for selling my PI heads w/Comp Cams and Comp cam gears? I think I am going to have to sell those in or derto pay for my new used motor.

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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This is exactly what I'm doing basically.

Nice. So if run that honking Edelbrock intake with the 90mm tb and 39lb injectors and that used stock 60k TC motor on meth and a 3.33" pulley, will that be safe and kosher or will the massive intake and TB cause issues on a stokc motor with stock heads?

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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Somewhat of an update. Figured out I have a custom grind Comp Stage 1 Blow Cam w/Beehive springs, Comp Retainers and Comp cam gears. I thought I just had the gears and cams, so it makes me feel better knowing the heads are done right. This new information for some reason makes me want to save and be patient and build a forged shortblock....hmmmm dammit this decision isn't easy!

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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Gents, quick update. Thinking since I have such a nice top end kit already and all of the supporting mods, why not just drop in the least expensive motor I can find on a 3.33" pulley with Meth and a safe tune and run it while I save for the forged shortblock?

I am looking at Crown Vic motors with around 110k miles give or take for $400 and 160-170 compression #'s. Are these compression #'s OK? I have my old NPI intake w/stock TB/Plenum that I will likely throw on along with my oil pan, timing cover, injectors, long tubes and exhaust. Is there any thing else I need to worry about while swapping this one in?

I am still concerned that the throttle linkage and fuel lines won't match up since those are aftermarket so hoping someone else can chime in regarding this also. Meaning, if I have the aftermarket fuel lines plumbed to my Eddy Vic. JR. intake, will those mate up to the stock intake? Same goes for the throttle linkage going to the Accufab 90mm TB...not sure if these will bolt up or if I will have to do something different?

My last concern is the tune. The car obviously ran like crapola with the last "base tune" Justin from VMP sent. Should I return the cars tune back to stock with my SCT before driving gingerly to get a dyno tune or should I keep the same tune in the car? Sorry for the ignorance guys just wouldn't want to mess anything up. If I go this route, hopefully the dyno tuner can get the car dialed close to good for less than $200 so I can start saving for the forged rotating assembly.

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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Alright guys I bit the bullet on a used 08 Crown Vic engine w/109k in it, with compression 170 across the boards. I am goin to run a 3.6" 6 rib pulley with my 113" Gatorback. Do I need to worry about new header, timing cover, oil pan and intake gaskets or can I run t the stuff that came off my car if it looks OK?

Planning on installing all of the parts on the CV motor this week and drop it in this weekend hopefully. Any thoughts, tips or tricks always appreciated gents!

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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What happened with your build Freefallin

Glad you asked my man because I was just about to post up some pretty crappy news and lots of questions. Heres what transpired most recently: Got motor installed, installed new battery because was dying, tightened starter bolt because died on test drive a few times, now stays on for most part. Realize there is some valvetrain noise and ended up being lash adjusters. Heres where my story starts to get weird boys...Before installing lash adjusters, I removed all plugs and attempted to turn engine over by hand so I could do the lash adjusters. Long story short, the motor would not spin by hand, so we cranked it over via starter and immediately allowed up to rotate by hand. Inspected all 8 followers on passenger side and looked fine, replaced all 8 lash adjusters and tapping noise went away upon first start up.

Fast forward 3 days to my dyno appointment (my dad and I trailered there). Car made 317 whp on the 3rd pass w/the Vic 100k take out motor and my setup with a 3.6" pulley. Tuner seemed to be dialing in the A/F nicely but out of nowhere, car shuts off at very top of 4th and final pull and the dyno graph showed it falling on its face from the word go. Car would not turn over. Removed plugs, car will not crank by hand and will not crank with starter either, just clicks/clunks once. Just got car home yesterday after getting laid off, having to get a tow dolly to tow it back to my house from the tune and inevitably re-separating my #8 rib on my back from the vertebrae on my spine for the 4th time in the last 4 years, I will not be able to work in the car for a few days.

That being said, I want to the most educated opinions as to what the issue is before I start tearing sheit down once my back heals up. For the record, I did not check timing on the vic motor before installed it, as this was my first rodeo and didn't think to check it. I did pay my Ford Mechanic n the $40/hour to help me get the trans on the motor and motor in car and everything buttoned up and be there for initial startup. Just really rich idle and very lean when driving around block (minus the last adjusters I replaced but cleared up the valvetrain noise), a dead battery and that loose starter bolt is all we could find after initial install and test drive.

As we were loading the car into the damn tow dolly, the front bumper got caught resulting in complete breakage of the unit. So not only have a lost my job, tweaked my back and potentially have a new motor scenario with the motor I just literally got installed, but I also now need a new bumper. Isn't life just a beatch sometimes?! Sorry for complaining, but this is the longest, biggest, crappiest and worst stretch I've ever gone through. i would appreciate any insight on the situation and to how I can diagnose the exact problem and how I can repair in the least expensive way possible. I need to fix the car, fix the paint blemishes and sell it!

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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The more I read and reserch, the more I am finding out its highly unlikely that my issue is a bad starter, and it's more than likely a bent/bad valve or bad valve guide or valve seat.

So here's my next question: if I pop both valve covers off and all of the followers/rockers/springs look like they are all fine and nothing is cracked/loose/missing, what is my next step? I actually have the bad ass heads that came with the car (PI heads with Comp Stage 1 blower cams/Comp Beehive valve springs, Comp cam gears and what I believe might be aftermarket valves, so if I have a bad seat or guide or bad or bent valve and the pistons are fine, could I simply install those heads and re-time with a new timing kit and call it a day?

Any and all insight very much appreciated.

Sean
 

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That depends...


1st- the car Is in neutral when you try to turn it over by hand, right?
2nd- did the motor come with any sort of warranty from the place you bought it?
3rd- can you rotate at all? Clockwise and/or counter clockwise?

if you cant rotate the motor at all in either direction, its likely not a head/valve induced problem unless the cam locked up in the cam caps, but i would expect timing chains and guides to break if that happened. Its more likely that something is either rubbing in the trans department, or the bottom end has locked up (in which case, see #2 above).
 

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Id check the flywheel and clutch bud. Youve already said you had to tighten the starter up right? The heads......are the ones you have sitting around
1.in good shape
2. Were you going to install them for a performance standpoint?
3. Make sure everything on them are tip top.

If the other heads are better, performance and better all around, pull the heads off the motor. You wanna switch em anyway youre half way there to seeing if the pistons are shot and if the crank needs attention. Thats my vote, check ur flywheel and clutch then proceed to motor.
 
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Freefallin

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Yes the car was in neutral when trying to rotate by hand. What am I looking for in the motor and trans? The heads would only go on if they needed to, even though they would have more performance gains but the car was not tuned with them, so I am guessing the cams would need me to get another tune which I do not want to do.

Sean
 

Nighttrain

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Depending on how drastic they are you could run it without a tune but to get the best out of them a tune would be wise. If i were you id
1. Pull the motor and trans
2. Drop the trans, inspect clutch and flywheel
3. Drop the pan
4. Pull the heads

Once the pans dropped inspect the crank and connecting rods for damage. That may mean dropping the crank bearing caps. Rod caps. Glazing and blueing means excessive heat and bad lubrication. With the heads off you can tell if there was piston to valve contact but i dont think this is your issue. Id check in the order i gave you here. Im not sure if you said already, but where did you get the motor. If you didnt check anything out before dropping it into the car, you dont know what you got.
 
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Freefallin

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Depending on how drastic they are you could run it without a tune but to get the best out of them a tune would be wise. If i were you id
1. Pull the motor and trans
2. Drop the trans, inspect clutch and flywheel
3. Drop the pan
4. Pull the heads

Once the pans dropped inspect the crank and connecting rods for damage. That may mean dropping the crank bearing caps. Rod caps. Glazing and blueing means excessive heat and bad lubrication. With the heads off you can tell if there was piston to valve contact but i dont think this is your issue. Id check in the order i gave you here. Im not sure if you said already, but where did you get the motor. If you didnt check anything out before dropping it into the car, you dont know what you got.

Didnt check anything but motor was warrantied for like 30 days but I believe there are several clauses that you must have it run all stock and have install receipts which I obviously do not have. I really didnt want to have to pull the motor again, as I would have to purchase a cherry picker and engine stand so thats kind of out of the equation.

Sean
 

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If you want to sell the car I would drop a stock engine then part out the other motor since it has some desirable parts in it.
 

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