Yeah, If you are planning to run this stuff those cams will need to be degreed. That makes things a little more interesting.
Bottom end is toast - Need Guidance
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Freefallin
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Degree...meaning for re-installation?
Yes sir
Scottydontknow(his daddy) makes a good point. But then again he throws in "degree service" which means a company pre-degree'ing the cam and sprocket together on a base engine relatively similar to yours.....not a good idea! These guys are right though......your gonna have to degree the cams yourself. If the pistons weren't so close, you could get by without degreeing, but this is not good practice. Your lucky to have an excellent knowledge base here. These guys are top notch when tech is involved and judging by your handy work already, these fellas can walk you through degreeing.
Freefallin
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Thanks boys, I will have to look into this but will worry more about it when I get to that point. Again, sorry for the ignorance, but if I am building up a forged rotating assemble and go with a .20" or .30" over dished piston, will I still have to degree them? Would a machine shop offer a degreeing service? Any idea how much a shop charges for this service? My buddy is telling me the parts to degree myself would be like $250?
Sean
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ScottyDsntKnow
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You have to degree no matter what. Don't know why stronger parts would make any difference. You can have a shop degree yes.
As for the service... MHS and Cushman do it regularly and are always accurate. Maybe not dead nuts on but way better than the factory.
As for the service... MHS and Cushman do it regularly and are always accurate. Maybe not dead nuts on but way better than the factory.
Freefallin
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Alrighty. Something just dawned on me guys... I have an Alky Control Meth controller in the car with the meth feeding from a large Vortech tank in the stock battery location but I never noticed a pump in the trunk or engine bay. Doesn't a meth kit need some kind of pump to run? Sorry, don't know a ton about meth kits but I think I am removing it to run IC anyhow.
Sean
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ScottyDsntKnow
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Mine was hidden in the pass fender. I'm doing the same thing. Yanking for IC.
Let me know if you think about selling that meth kit. I'm kind of considering one for future plans.
ScottyDsntKnow
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I am selling mine. Just have to pull it.
Freefallin
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Mine is for sale also. Can take out whenever and ship out. Found all of the gear hidden inside that drivers side fender. It's a full Alky Control Kit with an in car dial and Vortech ice box housing the meth. Let me know what you want to pay for it...I need to finance buying a new motor!
Sean
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Freefallin
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Well gentlemen, all Pistons are cracked aside from 3/7/8 and the #8 rod is bent pretty bad. I think this would explain a lot of things eh? Working on getting the main caps off. Got one off but can't manage the others yet. Me mechanic buddy told me to screw the bolts back on and rock them a little and they should come out. Any other suggestions?
Meth kit, 2.75" 8 rib Vortech pulley, Diablosport MAFia, Edelbrock Vic Jr. Intake, Accufab 90mm tb, plenum Elbow may end up being for sale here very soon so financed a new stock engine for his thing. Let me know if you have interest in any of these items guys. I may sell my 6 rib 3.12 Vortech pulley as well, as I want to be no more than 10 lbs of boost with blow thru and front mount. I think a 3.33 would be more in line with my desired numbers. This could all change, just putting the word out.
Meth kit, 2.75" 8 rib Vortech pulley, Diablosport MAFia, Edelbrock Vic Jr. Intake, Accufab 90mm tb, plenum Elbow may end up being for sale here very soon so financed a new stock engine for his thing. Let me know if you have interest in any of these items guys. I may sell my 6 rib 3.12 Vortech pulley as well, as I want to be no more than 10 lbs of boost with blow thru and front mount. I think a 3.33 would be more in line with my desired numbers. This could all change, just putting the word out.
ScottyDsntKnow
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Get a block spreader to remove the caps, or a few turnbuckles from the hardware store and use those. Or just rock them back and forth a little and hope they come out. If I don't have a block spreader I just stick a phillips screwdriver in one of the holes and use it to pry the cap back and forth till it loosens up. This is if I'm not especially concerned with the crank anyway...
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Thanks Scotty, ill go back down after I finish a few IPAs and see if I can't get those damn things out of there. Still trying to decide wtf route to go with. I want to build a forged rotating assembly so bad, but money is super tight and I could get s used engine and call it a day.
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Here are some photos. I was hoping you guys can give me a bit more insight as to what you think.
These are the initial reading my buddy took with his scan tool:
Bent Rod:
HG and Piston Tops:
Piece of metal I found sitting on top of a piston:
Coolant in # 8:
Shots of the cracked piston ring lands:
Some cylinder shots. How do these look to you guys?
Shot of the valves. I really don't know what to look for regarding the condition of these:
Do my valve springs looks stock or aftermarket:
These are the initial reading my buddy took with his scan tool:
Bent Rod:
HG and Piston Tops:
Piece of metal I found sitting on top of a piston:
Coolant in # 8:
Shots of the cracked piston ring lands:
Some cylinder shots. How do these look to you guys?
Shot of the valves. I really don't know what to look for regarding the condition of these:
Do my valve springs looks stock or aftermarket:
Did you loosen the jack screws for the main caps?
Freefallin
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Not sure what those are. I took the main cap side bolts and main cap top bolts out once the rods and pistons were out.
On another note, I may be buying a 04+ motor out of a Vic or Town Car and just dropping it in soon. I am concerned with my throttle linkage, fuel lines and IAC stufff since my car doesn't have ant IAC. My car has aftermarket fuel lines and throttle cable. What is the process like for dropping this motor in and returning the fuel lines and throttle cable back to stock?
Sean
Royal96
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The 04 vic motor is the same as the motor that came out, so you can move your throttle and fuel stuff directly over. No need to return to stock.
Freefallin
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Right but I was not going to swap over the Edelbrock intake/plenum/TB, I was planning on running the motor completely stock how it comes aside from LT's, injectors, blower and timing cover. The aftermarket fuel lines and throttle cable wont work with a stock motor will they?
Sean
Royal96
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The throttle cable definitely will. 99.99999% sure the fuel rails will. Only way it wouldn't is if it were some odd Edelbrock specific fuel rail.
Why not use the Edelbrock top end stuff though?
