Bub's H/C/I Madness

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Bub

Bub

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Sweet thanks I'll look into one.

Also I'm pulling the pan on Monday to do gaskets at 110000 miles you guys suggest changing the oil pump or to just leave well enough alone?
 
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Pan if dropped heads are off. Looks like I have some sludge build up on two piston tops otherwise everything looks great cross hatching on the walls no sludge on oil pump or bottom of pan. Now. Does anyone know how to get the balancer off so I can pull the timing cover?

ema2aqut.jpg
 

CC'S95GT

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Pan if dropped heads are off. Looks like I have some sludge build up on two piston tops otherwise everything looks great cross hatching on the walls no sludge on oil pump or bottom of pan. Now. Does anyone know how to get the balancer off so I can pull the timing cover?

BFI- Big F'n Impact. Once the bolt AND Washer is out you can rent a HB puller and it'll come right off.
 
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Does anyone on here know if the stock strut tower brace will fit around a gt40 explorer intake? Im thinking of running a 3/4" spacer if I can
 
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upyhynyp.jpg


2yzu5y8a.jpg


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Got a lot done this weekend. Heads are on cam is in and degreed. Gotta measure pushrods and adjust rockers. Last picture is the cancer on the shock tower. Gonna have to cut it out. Hopefully have the engine bay ready for paint next week and also have the motor buttoned up!

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Although I didn't want another set of 17x8 wheels. A set of stock mach 1 wheels came to me at an amazing price. Don't have them on yet. Luckily Google has everything lol

avape6e5.jpg
 
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hopefully I can have some pics of the shock tower rust repair soon, the driver side is about done, i welded in a patch then glued the scott rod panel over it. and will do the same for the passenger side.

The motor is about ready too. push rods are on order. going stock length hardened by ford racing. only issue i'm having right now is with the mac headers. It seems the flanges are off a bit due to warping. the worst is about half a bolt hole off, curious to see what you guys think if i can safely force this to work or if i'm better off ordering new ones.
 

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Oh wow your rust is really bad. I literally just fixed this on both sides of mine. Do yourself a favor and fix both sides now because although you may not see it showing it's most likely all rotted out too.


Sent from Space
 
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Yeah I've inspected inner and outer panels and the outer is solid so I'm just gonna scuff it and shoot it. But inside is the engine bay is the worst.
 

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Yeah I've inspected inner and outer panels and the outer is solid so I'm just gonna scuff it and shoot it. But inside is the engine bay is the worst.

Yeah that's pretty much how mine was, seemed solid on the outside layer of the frame rail but inside was pretty much gone. All the reinforcement was basically gone and the sleeves for the k-member bolts were no longer structurally sound. It was just filled to the brim with winter road cinders, both sides were like this:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/12843084645_6accced904_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/12843512064_c7d8fec8ca_c.jpg
 
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a9u7adu7.jpg


Very happy with end result. Gonna push this car outside and powerwash one more time before dropping the engine back in. Probably 2 weeks out from either running, or buying a 5.3 we'll see :)
 
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Fuel rail and injectors in, put new o rings and cups on the injectors

ypa5umaq.jpg


Anyone know if I can move or remove that vacuum port on the intake near the vc breather hole?
 

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looking good.
what headers are those? Look like BBK to me.
What heads did you put on too. I don't remember and too lazy to go back through the thread.
 

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