I'm shooting for in between 500-600hp. Original plan was fully forged internals trick flow or afr heads and the on3 kit. But I have been warned one to many times to to feel comfortable with the build. Everyone is telling me the block will not handle it. Any suggestions? I am for sure wanting to do a turbo build. Not wanting to spend an arm and leg, thinking around 5-6k not including the on3 kit.
Build help
- Thread starter lolls1
- Start date
We will need a little more info than that bud. What year is it, what engine platform are you working with. Your experience level with this kind of thing. Also, what makes you want that power level? Are you wanting to be a dyno sheet racer or are you trying to get track numbers? You just looking for bragging rights or just something fun to drive?
It's a 95. I have a 306 block but was debating going with something that will handle more. I have enough experience to get done what I need and if not I'm good friends with the owner of jdm performance and cbi street cars that will help me out. As far as what I'm wanting out of it, I want that uncontrollable smile every time I get on it. Plus where I'm from EVERYONE is ls guys. I'd love to put a stop to all my buddies shit talking on the old ford.
500 can be done with stock block if tuned correctly and your not trying to run crazy high rpms.
Otherwise look at doing a 351w swap. Well within your price range and will handle more than your wanting/needing right now.
There's plenty of 351w cars with a turbo that are dailyd and put ls's in their place.
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Otherwise look at doing a 351w swap. Well within your price range and will handle more than your wanting/needing right now.
There's plenty of 351w cars with a turbo that are dailyd and put ls's in their place.
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i thought about that. I actually jumped the gun ran out and bought a 351w then realized it was a non roller motor. But luckily I made a few bucks off it. I talked to the guys at on3 they said id just have to fab the piping to get the kit to fit the 351. I might do that. Idk so many options
I'm currently doing a turbod Windsor but I'm going 412 stroker. I'll have roughly $6k in motor by time it's all said and done and then my fuel system will be roughly another $1.5k-$2k. Biggest cost I'm hitting is tranny since my t5 won't handle what I'm bout to throw at it and I really don't wanna drop almost $5k on a t56 conversion just yet.
My biggest problem is I plan on boosting pretty high and pushing this block as hard as I can. I'm later doing a dart block but I know guys with these 351w rollers pushing almost 1k ponies and have ran em for a while.
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My biggest problem is I plan on boosting pretty high and pushing this block as hard as I can. I'm later doing a dart block but I know guys with these 351w rollers pushing almost 1k ponies and have ran em for a while.
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Depends on what you wanna do. Early 70's blocks are the strongest but not roller ready. If you are gonna use rollers yuh have to get link bar rollers(very pricy) or run small circle cam(not as good)
Late 70's-early 90's are not as strong and still not roller ready.
94-96 still not as strong as early 70's but are roller ready. Makes for easier conversion
Now keep in mind that there is several people running 94-96 blocks and making more power than most can handle. A guy I know locally is pushing 650+ at the rear wheels with stock bore and stroke. Forged bottom end and a big blower. He's been runnin that setup for several years with no issue other then blowing up a few tranny's!!! Lol
We know others pushing the 1k mark with these blocks but with extensive builds and way more money obviously.
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Haha. You guys are too precious, worrying about block strength. How many modular guys do you see talking about that?
351 Windsor blocks can handle enough power to go head to head with mod motors. But we do it with an abundance of torque and the deepest growl on the block. 
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Nuttinbutcrumbs
Active Member
Are you building a drag car? Or a street car? Will you current suspension handle 500-600 hp? If no, is there room in the budget for another $1k-2k for suspension upgrades? If you're wanting a fast street car it doesn't take 600 hp in a mustang, it's not a Honda,. You'll start making power around 3k rpm vs the imports 6k. If you were to make like 350-400 at the wheels you'd be able to hold your own with most on the street as long as you're not running a 2.73 gear.
If this is a street car my vote is investing the money in the 306 and shooting for a lower target hp goal and spending the money on the other areas that will need attention after adding an additional 100-200 hp, ie rear suspension. Oh and no need for forged internals, if you end up making "block splitting power" the block will split before the rotating assembly.
Mod motors- $2k cam upgrade...
Don't Sext and Drive.
If this is a street car my vote is investing the money in the 306 and shooting for a lower target hp goal and spending the money on the other areas that will need attention after adding an additional 100-200 hp, ie rear suspension. Oh and no need for forged internals, if you end up making "block splitting power" the block will split before the rotating assembly.
Mod motors- $2k cam upgrade...
Don't Sext and Drive.
Where do you get this figure from? You can get a custom ground set from MMR for $600. Replace the springs if you want to ~$200. Stock timing parts are fine. Heck, even the gaskets are reusable.
Wichers123
Well-Known Member
Always change the springs and don't forget mods cant switch a huge cam without valve reliefs. Mods do have there place just not in the big cam huge hp n/a group. Mods need zee boost. Blocks are strong but everything else just shits the bed. Even the heads. They have a huge room for improvement.
He's looking at going turbo "nuthinbutcrapupthere".
Many motors have failed by trying to use factory rods and pistons and boosting.
The turbo kit I have I got for a deal cause the previous idiot tried to run non forged internals and less than 1000 miles and a dyno mishap later I own the kit.
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Many motors have failed by trying to use factory rods and pistons and boosting.
The turbo kit I have I got for a deal cause the previous idiot tried to run non forged internals and less than 1000 miles and a dyno mishap later I own the kit.
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I understand that entirely, I was just trying to make the point that a cam swap on an n/a engine can be done for way less than $2k. I really just wanted to pick on these guys about there dinosaur, pushrod, weak block, boat anchors!
All in good fun guys, im only joking. I know how sensitive some of you get when your pushrod's get picked on.
My old dinosaur pushrod will be back together and at mustang week in July.
Please feel free to come try and pick on it and see who leaves tail tucked between their legs!!!! ;-)
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Well that just wouldn't be fair, I don't think your turbo is big enough.
It ain't the size of the snail, it's how it wags its tail that matters!!!!
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