Can CoilOvers go low/lower than sportlines?

ReplicaR

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They mostly do drag stuff, but their drop spindles are top notch products. I've seen them being tested for weld quality, fit and finish and durability under track use, and the spindles passed all the tests with flying colors pretty much.
 

Dalamar

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soooow, would this be a good optoin for my car Rep?

I like the low stance, but also want better handeling.
I'm MM coilovers on Billisteens front and rear.
QA K member and A arms (I want to change out the Arms) any suggestions?

the rest is all MM with the HD torque arm/panhard.


What does the doctor order?
 

ReplicaR

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How do the control arm look like now? Is the ball joint higher than where the control arm connects to the K-member?
 

SRT Handz

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I have been looking at those drop spindles for a few months now....
 

Dalamar

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ReplicaR said:
How do the control arm look like now? Is the ball joint higher than where the control arm connects to the K-member?

ya, theyre on an upward angle. lemme c if i can find a pic.
 

ReplicaR

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Don't worry about pictures. Since you have coil-overs, jacking up the car is gonna be pretty easy once the spindles are installed. The key here is to get perfect ballance between front and rear roll centers. Your rear roll center should be controlled by where the panhard bar connects to the chassis. For the back, anywhere between 7 to 9 inches off the ground is good. For the front however, the optimum location for the roll cetner should be anywhere from 1 inch below the ground to 3 inches above ground. I think with drop spindles, you should be with in those parameters. Be aware though that super low roll center causes understeer and super high roll center will not let you gain as much negative camber when the suspension compresses as a result of jacking effect.
 

Dalamar

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Thank you for the information.
in simple terms, the roll center of the rear, is that the panhard rod to the ground?

and how do I determine the roll center of the front end?
 

justinschmidt1

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suspension is too complicated...

Ill just stick with my sexy looking stance

The car handles more than well enough to get me in trouble.
 

ReplicaR

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Dalamar said:
Thank you for the information.
in simple terms, the roll center of the rear, is that the panhard rod to the ground?

w1r1vs.jpg

That nut is where your rear suspension roll center is. From there to the floor is the distance you want to have anywhere from 7-9 inches.

and how do I determine the roll center of the front end?

That is actually pretty complicated, and you need to measure some dimentions, and sketch this out on the paper, along with the angle your control arms are at. If I remember correctly, you have to draw a line from the balljoint to the bushings on the control arm, and continue it all the way to the end of paper. Then you draw the line through the strut. At the top draw another line which is at 90 degree angle to the strut line, and continue that line until you meet the control arm line. From where they meet, you bring back a third line to the center of your wheel. Then, you draw a line through the center of the car. The point where the tire line and center of the car line meet is your front roll center. This is way too complicated and completely unnecesary to do by hand. A MUCH easier way to know if testing and tuning or asking someone who is running a similar setup.

Edit: I did a quick diagram in paint to help you understand better.

2007oe0.jpg


Remember, this applies only to McPherson strut suspension. SLA user upper control arm instead of the 90 degree line from the shock, which is why a properly designed SLA can actually be lowered a lot, and still have good geometry.
 

g_dogg

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Thats some good info ReplicaR.
Now that I think of it my front roll center might be
too low compared to the back, which contributes
to my understeer problem. If I add a stiffer swaybar
can it correct the problem? do i get one for the front or back?
suspension is complicated..lots of trial and error :S

By the way, my rear springs are sportslines with KYB shocks.

intresting about the spindles! Has anyone tried them?
 

ReplicaR

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First off forget sway bars. They are not going to fix something that is so drasticly unballanced as your spring rates at the moment. Don't be offended by harsh words, and hear me out completely.

The springs are supposed to work with each other. That's why they are sold in a kit of 4, rather than individually. Everything has to do with roll resistance. When you stiffen up one side of the car, the roll resistance increases significantly on that side. However, the car still rolls with the side that's still soft. So the soft side ends up having more traction.

This is exactly why you have understeer. Sportline kit is a 425-630 front and 200-300 rear spring kit. You kept the stock rear springs and install front ones which are twice as stiff (300 pounds coilover rate is equal to 1080 spring in stock location), so you have significantly lower front end roll, but the rear still rolls a lot, and causes the front to have shitty traction. You either need significantly softer front springs or stiffer rear springs with aftermarket suspension to utilize the extra spring rate.
 

Dalamar

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thanks for the explanation on the front end Replica. I"ll have to check that out.


Agree'd - suspension is complicated. :crazy2:
 

g_dogg

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Wow and I thought my front springs were soft and that was causing the problem.
thanks for the advice replica
 

g_dogg

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ok guys I have more problems right now.
I just purchased an 04 IRS. came with shocks and springs.

Right now i have MM coilovers in front.
(bilstein struts and 300# spring).
I would say a little over 2 inch drop.

In the back sportsline, kyb shocks . 2 inch drop.
Unbalanced suspension :S

Now I will put in the IRS.
I have to use the IRS springs right?
I'm considering cutting a coil off to drop the car.
what do u think?
 

Dalamar

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you can do that, but why not get the matching MM coilovers for the rear?
you may also want to look at replacing the bushings in that IRS, check MM for info in this as well :)
 

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