Car wont start
- Thread starter chado31
- Start date
Maybe the timing needs to be closer? Perhaps set it up for initial starting again, get #1 piston to TDC on compression stroke, line up the rotor in the distributor with the location of the #1 plug terminal. Are your plugs gapped correctly?
You said you have fuel pressure but do you know you are getting fuel into the engine? You can test this real easy by seeing how strong you can smell fuel at the throttle body (fumes should migrate up from the intake ports). You can also give a quick shot of starting fluid in the throttle body. If it starts and runs for a second or two then you will know you are not getting fuel. One more thing, check a couple plugs now to see if they are soaked with gas. Wet plugs don't like to fire.
Let me know how it goes.
Steve
You said you have fuel pressure but do you know you are getting fuel into the engine? You can test this real easy by seeing how strong you can smell fuel at the throttle body (fumes should migrate up from the intake ports). You can also give a quick shot of starting fluid in the throttle body. If it starts and runs for a second or two then you will know you are not getting fuel. One more thing, check a couple plugs now to see if they are soaked with gas. Wet plugs don't like to fire.
Let me know how it goes.
Steve
recheck all your wires with the diagram below.if all wires are correct ..remove #1 cylinder plug and place your finger over the sparkplug hole and seal hole with your finger. then turn engine by hand until the pressure blows your finger off the hole. insert a screwdriver carefully into the sparkplug hole til it touches the top of the piston and continue turning engine carefully until the piston reaches the top which you will see using the screwdriver. at this point you will be at top dead center remove dist. if necessary but ensure the rotor button is pointing at the #1 plug wire on the cap and you have equal amount of movement twisting dist. to right and left. install cap and attempt to start you may have to twist dist. but it should start.
I checked the wiring and everything is like the diagram, When i originaly tried to start the car the starter would just click and I narrowed it down to a bad engine ground, could this have done something I'm realy at a loss, this is a fresh motor and I have replaced everything, could it be the ECM?
Check ALLLLLLL your fuses. Sounds to ME like you just missed something. You say you have fuel pressure but are you injectors firing? You need to either meter to see if they are pulsing OR like previously stated....pull a vaccum line or intake tract and spray some starter fluid or pour a lil gas into the intake....if it fires and stumbles for a second, you have a fuel system issue. Are you sure the distributor isn't in 180 out? You have everything hooked up? Check all your fuses? Etc. I'm betting its something easy.
I shot some starting fluid in and fired up and then shut down, I have power to the injectors. Can I use a test light to see if they are pulsing? The injectors are 24# Ford racing the clips on them don't line up with the stock harness, but they do plug in I used a zip tie to hold the two connections together, I still have the the 19# stock injectors but have a 75mm mas air and a 65 mm TB.
If you are hearing the pump and verifying you have pressure, you're injectors aren't firing....
You can take a test light and check the flashes. The injectors SHOULD have 12volts on one wire with the key on. The other wire is just grounded to make it fire. So you can tap each wire on an injector and turn it over...if it doesn't flash but you have 12 volts on the one wire, you've got a problem somewhere. Check all your wiring....is the CCRM hooked up? Check your grounds...etc. What does your TPS read by the way?
You can take a test light and check the flashes. The injectors SHOULD have 12volts on one wire with the key on. The other wire is just grounded to make it fire. So you can tap each wire on an injector and turn it over...if it doesn't flash but you have 12 volts on the one wire, you've got a problem somewhere. Check all your wiring....is the CCRM hooked up? Check your grounds...etc. What does your TPS read by the way?
Thanks everyone for your help, the car now runs, the TPS was way off and I set it a .99, however the car starts up right away but it runs rough. Played with the timing and it is running a little better but not driveable, is this because I need a custom tune since I changed the injectors, MAS, cam and egr delete? Thanks again for all the input.
331 stroker
cam 222/232 @.050
.534 lift
112 lobe center
Iron Heads 2.02/1.60 valves
100lbs springs
3 angle seats
ported
75mm MAS air flow
65mm TB
24# injectors
GT-40 upper and lower with 1" spacer
Summit digital ignition
MSD Distributor and coil
BBK equal shorties
BBK 2 1/2" Xpipe with cats magnaflow cat back
EGR eliminator I rigged the plunger half way
cam 222/232 @.050
.534 lift
112 lobe center
Iron Heads 2.02/1.60 valves
100lbs springs
3 angle seats
ported
75mm MAS air flow
65mm TB
24# injectors
GT-40 upper and lower with 1" spacer
Summit digital ignition
MSD Distributor and coil
BBK equal shorties
BBK 2 1/2" Xpipe with cats magnaflow cat back
EGR eliminator I rigged the plunger half way
As of Monday the car runs and sounds real good. The problem after many opinions and input from others was a faulty MAF. The damn thing was brand new calibrated for 24# injectors and a complete piece of shit, I swapped in a cobra MAF and it was like night and day. The new one was a Summit brand, I must have got a faulty one. Thanks for all the help from everyone along the way now I just need to get it to the tuner.
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