Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

[Venompower]

I don't know your exact setup but I run NGK TR6 @.032 with my 2v P1SC setup

Yeah I’ve run TR6’s at .032 and currently have Autolytes at .032…

Car ran perfect when I dropped it off but obviously it has sat for the better part of two months…

 

[Musturd]

Yea tr6 is what I ran on my cobra with a v3 at .022

 

[Venompower]

Yea tr6 is what I ran on my cobra with a v3 at .022

How much boost? I’m only running 9 lbs.

 

[Musturd]

How much boost? I’m only running 9 lbs.

Like the same stock pulley v3 . My cars gotta similar hiccup right now too I had too much timing in the car so going to replace the plugs and see how it does

 

[Venompower]

So, while thinking about the "cut out" I was experiencing I determined it felt very similar to what I experienced in the past. Complete ignition cut out, not stumbling. SO before messing with spark plugs, I decided to disconnect the intercooler piping between the intercooler and the blow through MAF. Sure enough I found rusty water in the pipe. Not as much as last time, but enough that it was on the MAF sensor. Cleaned it out and cleaned the sensor with MAF cleaner.

I'm happy to report the cut out is gone, but on my maiden voyage the first hit to test the cut out I managed to blow the connector I had been working on. Once I get the charge pipe back on and well secured everything should be good. I will say that the car drives better than it ever has, the clutch is super light but I'm getting used to it. The poly trans mount feels good, as does having the driveshaft securely attached lol.

 

[Venompower]

Soooooo… looking at Coyote options… may have a good deal on a 500 mile short block. Any tips on what to upgrade other than oil pump and gears?

 

[weendoggy]

Soooooo… looking at Coyote options… may have a good deal on a 500 mile short block. Any tips on what to upgrade other than oil pump and gears?

New oil pump and billet gears. Also the main chain gear to billet. While there, replace the chains and tensioners and anything else that looks decrepid. jmo

 

[Venompower]

New oil pump and billet gears. Also the main chain gear to billet. While there, replace the chains and tensioners and anything else that looks decrepid. jmo

Not bad, need to try to get some pricing on the other components needed to get it to long block before I pull the trigger.

Intakes and fuel rails are cheap on market place, but I'm struggling to find affordable heads. $600 a pop through Tasca, and not much on marketplace even in chicago.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Yea, you won't find any Coyote head cheaply, especially gen 2 and up.

Replace the factory chain guides, and if you are going to upgrade the OPGs, definitely put them in a new oil pump housing... or just get the entire housing new with pre-installed billet OPGs from Boundary or MMR. Both are good. Don't ever put new gears in a used housing, you could be flirting with disaster.

There are now outfits that make oil pans specifically designed for most aftermarket K-frames that go into SN95s. Do the research or it's a speedbump.

What's the application? Street? Max effort?

 

[Venompower]

Yea, you won't find any Coyote head cheaply, especially gen 2 and up.

Replace the factory chain guides, and if you are going to upgrade the OPGs, definitely put them in a new oil pump housing... or just get the entire housing new with pre-installed billet OPGs from Boundary or MMR. Both are good. Don't ever put new gears in a used housing, you could be flirting with disaster.

There are now outfits that make oil pans specifically designed for most aftermarket K-frames that go into SN95s. Do the research or it's a speedbump.

What's the application? Street? Max effort?

Street… once it’s done, plan on getting the bracket from Procharger / Clocking head unit if needed and running it. Guessing I’ll be somewhere in the mid to high 600’s whp.

 

[07GtS197]

It might be advantageous to buy a long block instead. Plus it’ll probably be cheaper in the end.

 

[Venompower]

It might be advantageous to buy a long block instead. Plus it’ll probably be cheaper in the end.

That's what me and my excel spreadsheet have determined, unless I can get the short block for a great deal, heads and timing components add $2,000 to the total along with everything else it's comparable to buying a low mileage long block. Guess I'll just keep saving my pennies...

I still think this will make more sense in the long run than building the 4.6 engine.

 

[07GtS197]

That's what me and my excel spreadsheet have determined, unless I can get the short block for a great deal, heads and timing components add $2,000 to the total along with everything else it's comparable to buying a low mileage long block. Guess I'll just keep saving my pennies...

I still think this will make more sense in the long run than building the 4.6 engine.

With the coyote being more efficient and parts availability I’d say so. Gen 2 coyotes are the ones to get as they have a stout bottom end and can make around 1k hp before self destructing. They still need oil pump gears and timing components but otherwise are strong.

You know, I’ve owned 3 mustangs and 1 f150 with coyotes and only one of them has the bbq lighter tick. I know it’s not an issue but I don’t like it. Whatever you get hopefully doesn’t have the tick.

 

[Venompower]

With the coyote being more efficient and parts availability I’d say so. Gen 2 coyotes are the ones to get as they have a stout bottom end and can make around 1k hp before self destructing. They still need oil pump gears and timing components but otherwise are strong.

You know, I’ve owned 3 mustangs and 1 f150 with coyotes and only one of them has the bbq lighter tick. I know it’s not an issue but I don’t like it. Whatever you get hopefully doesn’t have the tick.

I'm amazed at how cheap some parts are other than the big ones listed... no one is doing anything for the 4.6 dohc in comparison. I was going to do a hybrid gen 1 heads gen 2 short block, but if I can find a gen 2 engine I'll go that route.

 

[07GtS197]

I'm amazed at how cheap some parts are other than the big ones listed... no one is doing anything for the 4.6 dohc in comparison. I was going to do a hybrid gen 1 heads gen 2 short block, but if I can find a gen 2 engine I'll go that route.

Smart man lol. Then throw a ported gen 3 intake on top. You’re going to run the Vortech on the coyote right?

 

[lwarrior1016]

If I was to roll back time on my coyote swap, I would have left the gen 1 setup in the car. Mine started as a gen1 then got converted to gen 2 later on. The gen 1 engine ran so good, and made great power. The gen 2 stuff runs good, but didn’t get my any more power really. The rods are the difference and they are more capable in the gen 2. Gen 1 rods don’t like living at 700hp, under that they are fine. Tuning the gen 1 is much easier than the gen 2 in the sense of making everything work well in our cars. Gen 2 has all the tuning torque based and you will run in to hiccups like idle surge or sometimes stalling. The gen 1 does not. And the cams are easier to tune in a gen 1 because the gen 2’s have an updated phaser that locks them mid travel. That creates its own headache.


If I can make a recommendation based on my experience, buy a gen 1 engine. You can put gen 2 rods in it and aftermarket cams. There will be no power difference between the gen 1 and gen 2.


My car with a gen 1 f150 engine had a gen 3 intake and 1-5/8 long tubes on it, made 436 rwhp.

I did gen 2 rods, forged 12.5:1 pistons, gen 2 cams, ported gen 3 intake, and 1-3/4 long tubes. The car only made 450 rwhp after all that.

I honestly believe that all the difference came from the compression.

 

[Venompower]

Smart man lol. Then throw a ported gen 3 intake on top. You’re going to run the Vortech on the coyote right?

Yeah it’s a Procharger P-SC with 9 lb pulley.

If I was to roll back time on my coyote swap, I would have left the gen 1 setup in the car. Mine started as a gen1 then got converted to gen 2 later on. The gen 1 engine ran so good, and made great power. The gen 2 stuff runs good, but didn’t get my any more power really. The rods are the difference and they are more capable in the gen 2. Gen 1 rods don’t like living at 700hp, under that they are fine. Tuning the gen 1 is much easier than the gen 2 in the sense of making everything work well in our cars. Gen 2 has all the tuning torque based and you will run in to hiccups like idle surge or sometimes stalling. The gen 1 does not. And the cams are easier to tune in a gen 1 because the gen 2’s have an updated phaser that locks them mid travel. That creates its own headache.


If I can make a recommendation based on my experience, buy a gen 1 engine. You can put gen 2 rods in it and aftermarket cams. There will be no power difference between the gen 1 and gen 2.


My car with a gen 1 f150 engine had a gen 3 intake and 1-5/8 long tubes on it, made 436 rwhp.

I did gen 2 rods, forged 12.5:1 pistons, gen 2 cams, ported gen 3 intake, and 1-3/4 long tubes. The car only made 450 rwhp after all that.

I honestly believe that all the difference came from the compression.

The reason I wanted gen 2 short block was mainly due to wanting to put the Procharger on it. Unless I can get an extremely low mile long block I didn’t want to touch the bottom end.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Yeah it’s a Procharger P-SC with 9 lb pulley.



The reason I wanted gen 2 short block was mainly due to wanting to put the Procharger on it. Unless I can get an extremely low mile long block I didn’t want to touch the bottom end.

The only thing you gain with the gen 2 bottom end is the rods. The pistons are made the same and so it the crank. Do you plan to go over 700rwhp? Do you race the car or make long pulls through all the gears at wide open?

I only suggest the gen 1 to save a bunch of headache later.

 

[Venompower]

The only thing you gain with the gen 2 bottom end is the rods. The pistons are made the same and so it the crank. Do you plan to go over 700rwhp? Do you race the car or make long pulls through all the gears at wide open?

I only suggest the gen 1 to save a bunch of headache later.

I assume with 9 lbs from the P-1SC I would be at like mid to low 600’s with a conservative tune.

It’s a street car… but I would like it to be a little overbuilt for reliability.

 

[Venompower]

So found a less than 500 mile new crate short block that my tuner is swapping for a predator short block with timing kit and Mustang front cover… wants $1900 may be able to get it for little less. Might have a lead on gen 1 heads for $400…

What would you all do?