Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

lwarrior1016

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So found a less than 500 mile new crate short block that my tuner is swapping for a predator short block with timing kit and Mustang front cover… wants $1900 may be able to get it for little less. Might have a lead on gen 1 heads for $400…

What would you all do?
I would do it. Is it a gen 1 or 2 short block?
 
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Venompower

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Perfect. The gen 1 heads will work on that block and will not be a power restriction at all.
Since the short block has less than 500 miles, do you think a set of drop in forged pistons stock sizing would be on the table? I doubt the cylinder walls would have had time to distort? It may be overkill as I don't want to exceed say 650hp...
 

lwarrior1016

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Since the short block has less than 500 miles, do you think a set of drop in forged pistons stock sizing would be on the table? I doubt the cylinder walls would have had time to distort? It may be overkill as I don't want to exceed say 650hp...
Forged pistons wouldn’t be off the table at all, but the rotating assembly will have to be rebalanced since the new pistons are going to be heavier.
 
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Venompower

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Forged pistons wouldn’t be off the table at all, but the rotating assembly will have to be rebalanced since the new pistons are going to be heavier.
Sounds cheaper than block work… but again if 650whp is a goal the stock block should work as is?
 

lwarrior1016

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Sounds cheaper than block work… but again if 650whp is a goal the stock block should work as is?
Well, you don’t really do block work on a coyote. The sleeves are too thin to do anything with them. If the bores are trashed, get a new block, or have the whole thing custom sleeved.

No matter how you twist it, that engine will last at 650 rwhp forever.
 
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Venompower

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Well, you don’t really do block work on a coyote. The sleeves are too thin to do anything with them. If the bores are trashed, get a new block, or have the whole thing custom sleeved.

No matter how you twist it, that engine will last at 650 rwhp forever.
Appreciate the help, I don’t have anywhere near the knowledge about Coyotes compared to what I’ve picked up on the 4.6.
 
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Venompower

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So the shortblock sold…

found these:

No machine work would be required with boss rods and crank, and gen 2 pistons? If I’m using a bare block would it be better to go forged and just have the rotating assembly balanced?
 

lwarrior1016

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So the shortblock sold…

found these:

No machine work would be required with boss rods and crank, and gen 2 pistons? If I’m using a bare block would it be better to go forged and just have the rotating assembly balanced?
No machine work is required, except balancing. But beware, the gen 3 block does not have sleeves in the cylinders. It is plasma arc wire transfer coated. It takes very specific pistons. If you’re going gen 3 short block, I’d suggest finding a used running engine that’s known good. You can build that block, if you pay very close attention to what pistons are used.

13-14 Boss rods are the same as stock gen 2 and gen 3 rods.

Any coyote crank will be suitable. They are not weak.
 
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Venompower

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So, let's regroup in the wake the Gen 2 short block selling, which would have been the easiest path forward.

My options right now are:

Disassemble the 4.6, swap springs and seals in the heads... add new timing chains, guides, tensioners, and upgrade the oil pump. Have the block checked by a machine shop and then purchase forged rods and pistons (4032 alloy) or boss rods and forged pistons (at that point I'm only saving a few hundred) and have them balanced with the crank and put it back together.

If the 4.6 is in good shape, this sounds easy... but until it's a part it's hard to say what machine work would be needed or how much it would cost. I'm also probably not going to get to my streetcar goal of 650whp with the P-1SC even pullied down.

or

Continue to pursue the Coyote which seems both easier and more difficult. The engine seems like the easiest part to me, but the more I look into it the more additional stuff has to be changed. Brake system, brackets to retain AC, upgrading the fuel system for the Coyote + boost, control pack and getting gauges to work.

So, in my quest to not be the slowest Cobra in my Mustang club, or Chicago in general... do you think I'm on the right track going Coyote or should I pivot?
 

96blak54

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I believe the coyote path will easily net your hp goals. Its being done on the regular these days. A factory untouched coyote have been known to exceed 1k hp and stay together. 700rwhp is the most common and these are being beat to death everyday.
 

joemomma

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The coyote is definitely appealing, I'll say that. The more I look at crate swaps, the better the coyote looks.
 
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Venompower

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The coyote is definitely appealing, I'll say that. The more I look at crate swaps, the better the coyote looks.
Yeah that’s the issue, it’s going to be more work and more money but if I build the 4.6 while it’s cheaper up front I’d probably have to move to a D1X Procharger immediately to hit my goals… I’m guessing I would max out the P-1SC at 525ish hp… so it would probably cost more in the long run.
 
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Venompower

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So, its $14.95 to rent the U-Haul trailer and my companies CFO is lending me his engine hoist... he also made a bracket to convert a 3 wheel engine stand to a 4 wheel setup which he is letting me use as well. What would you be looking for on inspection of this engine... we can take the cam/valve covers off... what else?
 

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