Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

joe65 · May 19, 2021

Most likely. My mind would start there. But doesn't mean i'm smart...lol
Or, its a drag car only, no signals needed!

Venompower · May 20, 2021

We’ll relay didn’t work… really confused as I have no hazards or turn signals, but the brake lights and front amber lights work. The turn signal stalk on the steering column turns on bright and the wipers as well as activating the wiper fluid.

Fuses didn’t appear blown.

Could this be related to the fog light repin? I may go through those just to check.

ttocs · May 20, 2021

multifunction switch. I think you could test for voltage at the flasher to test it, or swap it out

https://www.americanmuscle.com/turn...fQA67GQWcN0WbnBOKWoaAnKdEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Venompower · May 21, 2021

ttocs said:
multifunction switch. I think you could test for voltage at the flasher to test it, or swap it out

https://www.americanmuscle.com/turn-signal-switch-9498.html?utm_content=Exterior - Windshield Components|OPR&T5_Var4=95741&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&utm_campaign=AMM+Mustang+Vehicle+Medium&T5_Var3=blue&intl=0&dialogtech=ppc&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZiFBhD9ARIsAGxFX8C66Yfaz_cuaR_XFnQAsiasukNjgh7hBQFFfQA67GQWcN0WbnBOKWoaAnKdEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think you are right. Once I realized the emergency flashers were part of that switch, I felt pretty confident it’s the issue. I checked all the related fuses and none looked damaged, and the new relay did nothing.

I ordered one off Amazon as it should arrive by Sunday, it was close in price to American Muscle. Hopefully the quality isn’t bad. It was interesting that one reviewer said the replacement switch fixed their airbag light which had been illuminated (my airbag light has been illuminated.)

Venompower · May 24, 2021

Of course nothing is ever easy... the relay didn't work, and neither did a new multifunction switch... I also determined I don't have brake lights either. Found a Viper alarm system hiding under the dash and pulled as much as I could find.

Going to check the connectors for the multifunction switch tonight and see if any wires have backed out. Found a youtube video for an F-150 that had the wires back out, and they lost turns signals, brakes lights, and flashers. Just want to get this thing drievable.

ttocs · May 24, 2021

the alarm will not effect those lights. The are tied into the parking lights but would need to be a pretty bad screw up to effect the rest of the lighting.

I had a strange problem earlier this year that I ended up tracing back to the cruise control amplifier which in my 94 was down by the fuse box. Check where yours is and see if disconnecting the harness to it helps anything. On mine I discovered I was only getting 9v to the lights and it went away when the amp was disconnected.

Venompower · May 24, 2021

ttocs said:
the alarm will not effect those lights. The are tied into the parking lights but would need to be a pretty bad screw up to effect the rest of the lighting.

I had a strange problem earlier this year that I ended up tracing back to the cruise control amplifier which in my 94 was down by the fuse box. Check where yours is and see if disconnecting the harness to it helps anything. On mine I discovered I was only getting 9v to the lights and it went away when the amp was disconnected.

I will check that, the weird thing is I looked at a video of my first drive once adjusting the clutch cable initially and I had brake lights. So whatever happened happened between then and now.

Venompower · May 24, 2021

Here is the wiring diagram, I'm lucky that there are not connectors between just straight runs from the tail lights and head lights to the multifunction switch. I'm hoping that the grey connector is just worn out and it allowed the wires to back out. The wires don't have much slack and I have read that after say 25 years even using the tilt for the steering wheel can pull the wires back far enough that they don't make contact. My rear tail lights come on with the headlights but per this diagram that would make sense because they run off the brown wires from the head lamp switch.

Venompower · May 24, 2021

I have no third brake light either… fuse 9 is good…

joe65 · May 25, 2021

Dang man, chasing electrical shit sucks.

ttocs · May 25, 2021

Venompower said:
I have no third brake light either… fuse 9 is good…

according to that diagram the 3rd brake light is driven directly off the brake light switch and does not go through the multifunction switch. Test for power at the brake switch(on top of the pedal)

Also don't just go check individual fuses. It takes less time to actually pull/inspect each fuse than it does to go through the manual and this way we can be sure its not a fuse that has nothing listed with the problem at hand.

Venompower · May 26, 2021

ttocs said:
according to that diagram the 3rd brake light is driven directly off the brake light switch and does not go through the multifunction switch. Test for power at the brake switch(on top of the pedal)

Also don't just go check individual fuses. It takes less time to actually pull/inspect each fuse than it does to go through the manual and this way we can be sure its not a fuse that has nothing listed with the problem at hand.

So here is where I am at after last night.

I switched my multimeter to read voltage, and with accessory power on I measured the lower prong on the brake switch and got 3.34v. I then measured the top prong and got 0.01v. I then depressed the brake switch and did the test again, bottom was 0.01v and top was 0.01v. So this seems to confirm the brake switch is bad, as when depressed the voltage should move from the bottom prong to the top.

The other issue is 3.34v seems very low, I tested it at the fuse and both sides of the number 9 fuse showed 3.34v so it's at least consistent from fuse block to brake switch. There was something from the alarm tied into this wire before the fuse block and it measured almost 12v at the tie-in, which I tapped up so it wouldn't ground. So I'm going to buy a new brake switch today, and see what happens. I'm getting to the end of my technical ability with this, and may have to take it to a shop if this doesn't fix it.

Need to measure voltage at the flasher as well I think. See what Voltage Fuse 1 shows and then measure it as the flasher. Same with the wht/red wire to the flasher off Fuse 9. Seems like between the spliced section measure 11.46V and the fuse it's dropping voltage, but everything was wrapped and un-messed with on that run?

joe65 · May 26, 2021

i respect your diligence. good luck i hope this gets you there.

lwarrior1016 · May 26, 2021

Your switch may not be bad, it’s just letting the little bit of current go through it and the lights are draining the circuit. Make sure to check all of your grounds. There are some at the trans tunnel, right side just under the radio. There are grounds down by the pcm, there are grounds up behind the headlights, and the big one going to the engine.

Venompower · May 26, 2021

lwarrior1016 said:
Your switch may not be bad, it’s just letting the little bit of current go through it and the lights are draining the circuit. Make sure to check all of your grounds. There are some at the trans tunnel, right side just under the radio. There are grounds down by the pcm, there are grounds up behind the headlights, and the big one going to the engine.

Your post has me confused.

The voltage drops between the section of light green and red wire that was spliced for the alarm and the fuse (power source side of the fuse box), I measured 11.46V at the splice and each side of the fuse measures 3.34V. I measured some other fuses and they were around 12V, so I'm assuming Fuse 9 should also be around 12V. So that was one issue, that there appears to be a short between the splice and the fuse box.

The second issue is the switch. My understand of how to test it was that it should have power on the lower prong but not the upper prong at rest. Which it did (albeit low at 3.34V), the upper prong at rest was 0.01V. When you push down on the brake pedal the upper prong should now have power, but in my case it didn't, when pushed the upper prong remained at 0.01V. This is supposed to indicate a bad switch?

Venompower · May 26, 2021

joe65 said:
i respect your diligence. good luck i hope this gets you there.

Diligence, insanity, not wanting to spend money on this when there are other things I need to do for the car... lol

I am definitely learning a lot about wiring, as I have never messed with it before.

joe65 · May 26, 2021

Venompower said:
Diligence, insanity, not wanting to spend money on this when there are other things I need to do for the car... lol

I am definitely learning a lot about wiring, as I have never messed with it before.

I'd be in the same boat. I had a 88 Notch that was a 4cyl - 5.0 conversion car. I bought it after the conversion was done and pulled my hair out with wiring issues for things on the dash. Anyways, feel your pain.

lwarrior1016 · May 26, 2021

Venompower said:
Your post has me confused.

The voltage drops between the section of light green and red wire that was spliced for the alarm and the fuse (power source side of the fuse box), I measured 11.46V at the splice and each side of the fuse measures 3.34V. I measured some other fuses and they were around 12V, so I'm assuming Fuse 9 should also be around 12V. So that was one issue, that there appears to be a short between the splice and the fuse box.

The second issue is the switch. My understand of how to test it was that it should have power on the lower prong but not the upper prong at rest. Which it did (albeit low at 3.34V), the upper prong at rest was 0.01V. When you push down on the brake pedal the upper prong should now have power, but in my case it didn't, when pushed the upper prong remained at 0.01V. This is supposed to indicate a bad switch?

I’m sorry brother, I must have misunderstood. Yes, there is a short from the splice to that fuse. You could probably just run a new wire to the fuse from the supply and fix that. I don’t think I would replace that switch until you get power going to it the way it’s supposed to.

Venompower · May 26, 2021

lwarrior1016 said:
I’m sorry brother, I must have misunderstood. Yes, there is a short from the splice to that fuse. You could probably just run a new wire to the fuse from the supply and fix that. I don’t think I would replace that switch until you get power going to it the way it’s supposed to.

Thanks for the reply, all morning I was saying, I wonder if I could just disconnect the battery, unbolt the fuse panel and run a new wire from the splice to the fuse box to bypass whatever was going on... The switch was $12 so I'll just hold on to it, and if it's not needed I'll return it. Time to step up my soldering game, as it was rough last night lol.

ttocs · May 26, 2021

its not the switch if your measuring the same voltage at the fuse. My 94 showed a cruise control amplifier that connected to the brake wire right at the fuse box and I got 9v to my lights until I disconnected it. Where is the cruise control on yours shown?