Coil springs: To cut or not to cut, that is the question

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Hey guys I'm debating cutting some of the coils off my FRPP c Springs. I'd like the front to be a little bit lower but overall I want it to be a higher rate. With the rear of the car I definitely want that about an inch lower. I've read that the type of end on Springs causes an issue - i.e. square, tangential, pigtail - and I'm positive the rears are pigtail and the fronts are square which seem to be more difficult to cut from what I've read. I plan to throw the PHB and the torque arm from MM on my car. What do you guys recommend?
 

the5.ohh

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I had ford b springs, same as C just a different rate. Cut a coil off my front springs, cut from the top. The bottom of the spring has a pigtail that sits in the little notch in the control arm. So just cut the top. Rule of thumb is 1 coil is a litte over an inch. I'd start with half a coil, and see how you like it. The rears, same thing, cut from the top, bottom has a pigtail. It'll ride a little stiffer, nothing crazy though. I'm in NYC, streets are horrific, and I never had a driveability issue. Torque arm and PHB are good, MM is the best. I highly recommend a set of MM full length (weld in) subframe connectors. It'll really make the car feel solid, easier to jack up too. I can three wheel it off the ground by jacking up just one side.
 

RichV

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If you go with the MM PHB, you will have to change the rear springs anyway. I went to 415# springs out back from 285#, and it makes a big difference in the predictability of the rear end. This is on a track car.
 
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Frank.JD.Perez
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If you go with the MM PHB, you will have to change the rear springs anyway. I went to 415# springs out back from 285#, and it makes a big difference in the predictability of the rear end. This is on a track car.


I read that it's recommendedto use their Springs if you have a stiff coil over front set up which I dont.
 

EVILSN

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I always cut my springs. Ride never changes. I'm on sportlines with 1 coil cut all the way around. Rides like shit before and rides like shit after lol


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Justang

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I have the same set on my '97 coupe, and went through the same process. If you have a vert, perhaps this doesn't apply due to weight differences. I cut a full coil off the rears (the top is a dead coil and as per Ford's instructions they somewhat encourage this) and needed about 3/4 off the front to give me the look I wanted.

Keep in mind the fronts are linear rate and the rears are progressive. Don't cut the pigtails or you'll be buying new springs. Also, what did you do for isolators? They bring another variable to the plate here. I pulled mine in favor of electrical tape and have been lucky so far with no squeaking.
 

EVILSN

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I have the same set on my '97 coupe, and went through the same process. If you have a vert, perhaps this doesn't apply due to weight differences. I cut a full coil off the rears (the top is a dead coil and as per Ford's instructions they somewhat encourage this) and needed about 3/4 off the front to give me the look I wanted.

Keep in mind the fronts are linear rate and the rears are progressive. Don't cut the pigtails or you'll be buying new springs. Also, what did you do for isolators? They bring another variable to the plate here. I pulled mine in favor of electrical tape and have been lucky so far with no squeaking.

Same here. Tape on the front and I cut a bicycle inner tube and laid it in place of the rear lower isolator. Works great
 
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Frank.JD.Perez
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Interesting, thanks for the advice guys, I use prothane bushings on the fronts and rears, a little bit of squeaking from the front on really crappy roads but not all the time, the electrical tape sounds interesting. I used to not have the bushings on the fronts and it looked great but with too much bounce on the front it eventually cut up the splash shields so much that on the driver side the wires are showing and are a little cut up
 

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