Coyote SN95

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B.mad

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Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm fancy pancy

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neverenuff

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Well after three fuel tanks, three different fuel hats, and going back and forth between the 97 filler neck and the 99^.
Best sumped, non-aerated fuel system for the dollar:
1.)Glenn's Performance 03-04 Cobra style tank- no filler neck modification for 97 and older cars.
2.) DivisionX dual pump fuel hat with pigtail- excellent craftsmanship and a breeze to wire.
3.) 6-AN return line to fuel regulator.
Runs like a champ. Here are some pics.
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Huge difference in these fuel filler necks:
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Happy Happy
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neverenuff

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Decided on changing up the chrome CAI to a black one. Kinda like the majority of the engine/accessories the same color. Also up in the air about getting an aluminum driveshaft or getting the factory one balanced past 2k. When swapping to 3.73's or higher, vibrations are more apparent at 80+...has anyone else had problems after a gear swap?

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TTSaleen

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Like the tank/fuel mods.
I also just ordered the Glenn's cobra tank and Division X return fuel setup for my Mach 1.
 
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neverenuff

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Like the tank/fuel mods.
I also just ordered the Glenn's cobra tank and Division X return fuel setup for my Mach 1.
Thanks dude. Just going to ask if you needed a sumped 03-04 On3 tank...too late! You'll be more than happy with the Lethal hat and Glenns tanks. Are you going to run two pumps? Bravo with those cars man, not sure how you do it, taking care of one is enough work!

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wmfateam

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I get a driver vibration at 100ish, but I believe it is to do with driveline angle. Have you compared the shaft angle at the back of the trans to the differential?

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neverenuff

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I get a driver vibration at 100ish, but I believe it is to do with driveline angle. Have you compared the shaft angle at the back of the trans to the differential?

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No, not yet. I need to get it on a drive-on lift, check the DS angle at both ends. Just by eyeballing it, it looks like it's at zero or parallel to the floorboard. I belive it needs -3 to -4.5?

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wmfateam

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No, not yet. I need to get it on a drive-on lift, check the DS angle at both ends. Just by eyeballing it, it looks like it's at zero or parallel to the floorboard. I belive it needs -3 to -4.5?

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From what I've read, they have to be opposite of each other. Like if the engine is -3°, the diff has to be +3°. But that is just a memory bank grab.

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TTSaleen

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Thanks dude. Just going to ask if you needed a sumped 03-04 On3 tank...too late! You'll be more than happy with the Lethal hat and Glenns tanks. Are you going to run two pumps? Bravo with those cars man, not sure how you do it, taking care of one is enough work!
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I wish I knew you were getting rid of one! Doh!
I am going to run the twin 465 pumps so I can run E85 in the Mach.
This will be the identical fuel setup I installed in my Cobra.
 

Thomas_W

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Rotate you driveshaft 90* on the pinion flange (assuming the pinion angle is correct) to get rid/diagnose the driveline vibration.
 
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neverenuff

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Rotate you driveshaft 90* on the pinion flange (assuming the pinion angle is correct) to get rid/diagnose the driveline vibration.
Thanks Thomas! Doesn't make a whole lotta sense, but maybe the flange yoke is offset? Anyway turned it 90* and on the street it seems to make a difference. Still need to test it on the highway. Still going to check my driveshaft angle.

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Thomas_W

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Thanks Thomas! Doesn't make a whole lotta sense, but maybe the flange yoke is offset? Anyway turned it 90* and on the street it seems to make a difference. Still need to test it on the highway. Still going to check my driveshaft angle.

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Not offset, its something about the harmonics between the driveshaft and rear axle. You may be able to see a colored Dot on the pinion flange and another on the driveshaft. The dots should match up with each other.

It makes no sense to me either, but it does seem to make a difference. You can keep rotating it 90* till it either goes away or gets worse.


For setting the pinion angle, i just jacked up the rear of the car and put jackstands under the axle. I then measured the angle of the trans using the output shaft seal face. Then measured the pinion angle using he pinion flange. After that it was only a matter of making the angles match (so the trans C/L and pinion C/L were parallel) and then drop the pinion c/l 2 or 3*. What driveline vibration i had was completely gone after that.
 
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neverenuff

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Took a page out of g36monkeys book and replaced my steering shaft with the MM piece. Nice product, a little interesting that you have to use RTV to fill the gap for the oval rod. As tge nearest drag strip is nearly two hours away, might be jumping on the bandwagon with an IRS shortly. We shall see, anyhow here are a few pics
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Too tight!
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a few weeks ago Brandon (bmad) and I met up down the street for some autocross. Definitely overpowered the track but had a good time doing it. Guess I'll keep modding the suspension/tires. Intake and cams are going to have to wait..
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B.mad

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IRS?????????? I dont think they are that much better than a built SRA. You did extremely good! Tires will make a huge difference in handling. It will feel like a whole different car
 
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neverenuff

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IRS?????????? I dont think they are that much better than a built SRA. You did extremely good! Tires will make a huge difference in handling. It will feel like a whole different car
Yes sir, it's about the same cost wise to build an SRA and an IRS, not necessarily a drag car. Plus if you can't beat em, join them!

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