ive done 2 PI swaps, mine and helped a friend. here are my few tips to make things a little smoother.
I am meticulous (sp) i suggest getting a sharpie and marking the timing cover bolt locations with numbers, then put tape on the bolts and mark them too, so you put the same bolts in the same holes.
dont forget the crank position sensor, i did, remebered it when i was done tightening the front cover bolts and saw it sitting on the workbench. had to back track.
grab yourself a 10mm ratchet wrench, it will save you loads of time and frustration on the power steering pump.
stick a towel in the oil pan opening when you pull the front cover off, nothing worse than tensioner bolts falling in there.
when your taking the hood off, be easy with the plastic cowl cover when your trying to fish the bolts in and out of there, it WILL crack with very little pressure.
you can mark the wiring harness if you want, but pretty much its a waaste of time, the connectors will only connect to one thing, every connection is different, so dont worry about it, it will only go in one way.
clean parts make for a easy install, when you get everything off, take the 10 seconds to wipe it down with a rag, doesnt have to be squeaky clean, just get the heavy grime off.
and last but not least, the driver side head. when you get all but the back lower 3 bolts out, and they back up against the brake master cylinder, dont try to rip it out. heres how i got it :
grab a buddy, have him lift the bolts out until they back up to the brake cyl. lift the head off the block like 2 inches and move it towards the passenger side (like you were going to set it in the valley) this will allow the bolts to come out, now do a little bit of wiggling on the bolts and wa-la it comes right out.
you have to do the same thing to get it back in, hold the head above the block a bit, put the bolts in the head, then move the head so the bolt hols line up, and they will drop right in.
after you get the head bolts out, and it feels like you are snagged and cant get the head out, its the oil dipstick, its in the block good, and theres not alot of room to work under the car either, so dont be afraid to climb in the engine bay, stand in the valley, and literally "rip" the head out, might take a couple good pulls, but you will get it out, then just use your new dipstick, i HIGHLY reccomend the Lokar flexible, worked like a champ for me both times, and never had a problem with it.
hope that helps ya!
