how to use the metra 95-5703b kit to install a double din radio

ttocs

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Metra has come out with a kit now to make it super easy to install a double din radio in a car that was previously 2 single din openings. The instructions show what you need but pics always help. The kit comes with the front panel, the rear air vents and then some brackets that attach to your radio. My initial review on it is that it seems like a well made kit. Its thick enough it does not flex and seems like it frames the radio nice so far. My only complaint is that its covered with a surface that reminds me of what was on the stock door pull cups in 94/95 that we all ended up hating as it peeled off over time. It reminds me of a silicon type of surface that was just sprayed on and I question how long it will hold up. Its not an issue for me as I have some plans for it....
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First you need to attach the white tension clips to the back of the panel. This is what will center and help hold it in place. They are easy to slide over the tabs that are on the kit.
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Next you will need to use the screws included with the radio to mount the radio to the mounting brackets. The easiest way I found to do it was to lay the kit face down and then put the deck on top, screen facing down. Be sure to do this on a soft surface but once it is you can slide the brackets in place over the white tension clips to get it all aligned. Once you do that you can find some screw holes that line up and tighten them down.
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When you do the deck and brackets will look like this. This will get mounted into the dash and then the kit slides over it.
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Once I had it at this point I actually loosened the screws a tad and then again with the deck/brackets in the kit I pushed the deck back about 1/16" so that the screen is flush with the dash.
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Phase two of this project moves into mounting it in the car. This is what a super messy dash in the middle of a wiring twister looks like so please ignore the spaghetti. It will be cleaned up now finally since I am putting that area together.
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To make space for the double din you need to do some minor surgery and cut off the mounting tabs on the inner dash that stick into the middle and where the old dash you to mount too.
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once the mounting tabs are cut off you can mount the deck. All you do to make sure its lined up correctly is to remove the two bottom t20 screws that hold the climate control in place and then use the top mounting holes on the decks mounting brackets for those two screws. There are two other self tapping screws provided that you then throw into the 4 remaining mounting holes. With 6 is makes for a solid mount.
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all you do now is slap the dash kit over the deck. Between the tension clips that lock into the mounting brackets and the fit at the top its a nice solid mount and lines it up perfectly as well. Only complaint here is that the kit is perfectly straight on the top, where the stock kit had a slight curve to it so there is a small gap at the top center, but its not horrible.
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From start to finish it would not have taken me more then an hour all at one time so it certainly saved time from converting a stock kit over. It is a nice clean look in the end, but that big that big empty spot below it bugs me. That will be phase 3 of the project where the real fun begins for me.
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I cut the square piece with the holes in it for the usb and radar detector out of the abs sheet I have. I made a .1" flange around it to make it easy to mount it from the back as well as to give a good amount of surface area for the epoxy to grip. Then I cut the rectangle in the kit and this is how it looks slid in from the back.
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this is what it looks like from the back just to get an idea. I thought about putting the carbon fiber side up but it would have made the next couple of steps of smoothing it in much more difficult.
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A little epoxy and the new piece is in place.
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And then add a little filler, some sanding, high build primer and then paint. not done yet thought....
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IT always takes for ever to get the EL lighting sheets in to light these little projects. While I was waiting for it I added the color stripe in the middle and cleared it all. Once the lighting sheet was in after trimming and bending it I finally got to drop in the last piece to get an idea of how it all went together. I really love the cnc and this point of the project is something I would call "cnc chub" when the last piece falls into place(literally). Its too hot in the garage now to finally put the dash in so I am waiting till early evening but can't wait to see it all in place and finally lit up.
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It took some time to snake all the usb cables into the dash and to get the radar buttons lined up but its in.
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I was all excited to see it lit up till I looked and discovered they forgot the wire harness portion of the EL inverter..... I might be making a trip to the local electronics store tomorrow to see if they have one that will work as I do not want to wait 5-7 days to get the two wires I need to finish it.....
 
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evilcw311

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When Scott says he has plans for something we all know that it will be awesome.







But also this means the car will be down for at least an extra month to cover the stereo install!!!! [emoji6]


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I edited the first post to add phase 2, mounting. Its a nice looking kit that seems well made and makes it easy to swap to a double din. I started phase 3 last night and had the cnc cut the first piece out of abs.
 

evilcw311

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I’ve got an avic n1 that’s been waiting to go in my car for almost 10 years.

Now I’m considering letting it collect dust longer and maybe I’ll go double din.


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ttocs

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I’ve got an avic n1 that’s been waiting to go in my car for almost 10 years.

Now I’m considering letting it collect dust longer and maybe I’ll go double din.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yea tell me about it I still have my F1 gear already mounted in my old dash collecting dust. SVGA graphics, no bluetooth/usb, but world class sound quality. I probably would have put it in but I didn't want to do the sound processors and amps and everything right now. Started on phase 3 tonight cutting into the dash. I think this will work well.
 

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Very cool, just the ambition I need to swap out my old 6 disc that doesnt work anymore. Contemplating a back up camera as well
 

Flade

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If you didn’t add the custom stuff at the bottom, was it just a big gap there? Seems odd that th manufacturer didn’t do something about that.
 
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If you didn’t add the custom stuff at the bottom, was it just a big gap there? Seems odd that th manufacturer didn’t do something about that.
this is how it looked out of the package. The stock piece they had buttons down there but the aftermarket does not.
taticflickr.com%2F65535%2F48154263787_cef8e466e4_b.png
 

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Now that you have lived with it, what do you think? It seems low. How is viability and easy if use? Doesn’t the shifter interfere with viewing the screen?
 
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I keep forgetting to get a pic of it with it lit up. With the lights on it plenty bright enough. The shifter is a bit in the way in 3rd but not enough to be a problem unless your watching your favorite porn. If that is the case shift to 4th :)
 

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31.jpg 28.jpg 005.JPG 004.JPG 011.JPG 009.JPG I like your setup. I bougtht the Metra Bezel also, but didn't like the material they used to make it, and they didn't include the cut out for the 94 to 98 A/C vent switch. The blank plate at the botton was nice to let the user do what they want with it like you did. I'm interested, did you put a backup camera in with your setup? Here's the setup i'm putting in my '95.001.JPG 010.JPG
 
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ttocs

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View attachment 1772 View attachment 1771 View attachment 1770 View attachment 1769 View attachment 1768 View attachment 1767 I like your setup. I bougtht the Metra Bezel also, but didn't like the material they used to make it, and they didn't include the cut out for the 94 to 98 A/C vent switch. The blank plate at the botton was nice to let the user do what they want with it like you did. I'm interested, did you put a backup camera in with your setup? Here's the setup i'm putting in my '95.View attachment 1765 View attachment 1766
yes I did do a back up camera. I got one built into the frame and drilled a small hole just above it to run the cord through. It had a grommet already on the cable to make it easy.
 

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Very Cool!! I put my backup camera above the licence plate between the licence plate lights. The Brigh10n Backup Camera had Active Parking Lines. I couldn't pass it up.untitled3.jpg
 
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95GT2TOP

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I do have another question for you ttocs. I don't know if the Kenwood DMX-706s has GPS or not, or if you put SiriusXM in your ride, With that said, what is a good location for the GPS or SiriusXM anntena? I really don't want to mount it to the dash. I was thinking somewhere is the trunk. Might you have any good ideas on where to run the wires and mount these things? Thanks
 
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ttocs

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well both sirius and gps antennas are not like radio antennas and like to be outside the car and will loose reception faster if they are not. With that being said I have put them on the dash under the glass or under the dash and been ok. My kenwood does not use gps but the holley speedo does and I do have sirius as well. I put the antennas for this up under my wiper cowl when I had the car apart. Its a great location if you have the car apart but a pain if you do not. You do not want them under metal is about the only thing I can say not to do for sure.
 

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I would like to replace the Mach system and have discovered that it is a chore to do correctly if I do anything besides the head unit.
I have a few (yes, 3) amps laying around and a pile of speakers from my PT and have been contemplating putting them in this car. but I am concerned about the rewire I have to do so that I may bypass the factory amps and install proper component speakers.
the system sounds OK but is just not that great. the head unit is showing signs of wear and the adjustments are either too much or too little with just one push, it is in desperate need of an equalizer.

I fear that if I start a project of this magnitude I will too fall down the rabbit hole of upgrades.
 
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ttocs

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if your replacing the deck and the speakers its easy to bypass all the mach crap. There is no need to rewire as there is a set of speaker wires that goes from the dash to each speaker location that you can use.
 

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