That's too cool! The IRS I got for mine was set up EXACTLY the same. Same shocks and all lol. Have you gotten around to installing it yet? Don't forget to remove the sra bump stop from the body, ask me how I know that.
In for a penny, in for a pound - '98 Cobra Build Thread
- Thread starter Lanter
- Start date
Thanks! How do you like the tokico's? Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to remove that when I begin the install. Planning on starting this weekend but that somewhat depends on the weather. It's 15 degrees out right now so the non-heated garage isn't much fun to work in lol. I'm comfortable getting stuff done when it gets up to around 25-30 but below 20 is a bit to harsh for me.
You've got good reasoning, below 20 is cold! I have no idea how the shocks are going to work out, my car has been in pieces for quite some time. You should have your installed before I get to drive mine.
Fair enough, long build seem to be all to common in the SN world lol. Although setting up megasquirt can take a good amount of time. I had a single turbo l28et powered datsun 280z in college that I controlled with megasquirt. Really a good system and easy to customize to do exactly what you want.
I get the car being in pieces for a long time, mines been more than 3 years in the making, although most of that's my fault for spending entirely to much time and money chasing rare parts lol.
Thanks Tony! Appreciate the kind words.
After having the IRS for a couple weeks I was finally able to get it installed. I still need to clean it more but with it being 30 and below using water outside to wash stuff is less than ideal so it'll have to wait until spring. I'm still pushing to get it finished by May so I can take it to streetcar takeover at Lucas oil raceway. All that's left is the magnum, rxt, flywheel, tune, and whatever miscellaneous stuff I'll need along the way.
The install started with drilling out the rear frame rails for the subframe brackets. I'm using 9/16 grade 8 hardware for the two that needed added. I also went ahead and drilled out the lower control arm mounts to use 9/16 grade 8 bolts here too, instead of the 12 mm bolts.
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After the subframe brackets were installed I moved onto cutting out the rear brake lines and adding new lines that will have enough room for the upper control arms.
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I was able to run them similar to the factory lines and even reuse the mounting clips.
Next step was installing the shocks and maneuvering the IRS into the car and raising the front to secure the front subframe into the lower control arm mounts.
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I also threw on my widened lemans to check for fit and they'll need a small spacer to give clearance for tires when I get them mounted. With no spacer the wheels have about 1/16th of an inch of clearance between the subframe. Also will need to pick up some low profile subframe bolts but the IRS is completely installed so I'm happy. Can't wait to feel the difference in ride quality and handling.
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Love the look of the lower control arms, I also need to narrow down a good exhaust to throw on the car. I love the IRS tailpipes so it's a must now that I have an IRS.
Taking a step back the wheels look massive but they look like they'll sit close to flush when the cars at ride height.
[/IMG]
The install started with drilling out the rear frame rails for the subframe brackets. I'm using 9/16 grade 8 hardware for the two that needed added. I also went ahead and drilled out the lower control arm mounts to use 9/16 grade 8 bolts here too, instead of the 12 mm bolts.
After the subframe brackets were installed I moved onto cutting out the rear brake lines and adding new lines that will have enough room for the upper control arms.
I was able to run them similar to the factory lines and even reuse the mounting clips.
Next step was installing the shocks and maneuvering the IRS into the car and raising the front to secure the front subframe into the lower control arm mounts.
I also threw on my widened lemans to check for fit and they'll need a small spacer to give clearance for tires when I get them mounted. With no spacer the wheels have about 1/16th of an inch of clearance between the subframe. Also will need to pick up some low profile subframe bolts but the IRS is completely installed so I'm happy. Can't wait to feel the difference in ride quality and handling.
Love the look of the lower control arms, I also need to narrow down a good exhaust to throw on the car. I love the IRS tailpipes so it's a must now that I have an IRS.
Taking a step back the wheels look massive but they look like they'll sit close to flush when the cars at ride height.
RedTwilight
Active Member
Can't wait to see the polished exhaust on it and on the ground!
Me either man!
How did you do the vertical bolts in the rear mounting bracket? I know you drilled the frame but did you go all the way in to the trunk? Also, what brake lines and tee fitting are you using? Those we pre made lines that you just bent up right, no cutting and flaring or did you do all that?
Looks ok a great though. Those lemans look so mean back there.
Looks ok a great though. Those lemans look so mean back there.
For the vertical bolts I drilled and tapped the frame rails for the bolts. I used fine thread bolts to get as much threads per inch as I could so there is a lot of threads that lock in as there was a lot of material there to tap. If this is an issue down the road I'll probably run a weld around the bracket as my battery box is in the way for running bolts all the way through the floor.
The brake line T and lines were all from autozone, one 3/6 T, one 20" line (pre-flared with fittings), and one 40" line (also pre-flared with fittings). The 40" line was to long though so I trimmed it about 6" and re-flared it. So in all I had to flare the factory line where it meets the T as well as the driver's side rear brake line where I shortened it. And thanks! I love how the leman's look back there but really need to get some tires on it to see how close everything will be and how it will look on the ground.
I didn't know there was enough meat to tap the frame for those bolts. That's good info. Did you have to drop the gas tank to make that happen? Also, did you use std or metric fittings for the lines?
It sure looks like enough meat there but I suppose time will tell. I torqued them down to spec and had no issue but I'll keep my eye on them. Yes the tank had to be dropped in order to drill the frame out. That actually was the biggest pain for the entire install (full tank for winter storage lol). I used standard 3/16th line and fittings throughout.
96laseredcobra
Well-Known Member
What do the extra lights do? Never saw them before
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
So instead of the brake light flashing as the turn signal there is an extra bulb where the amber portion is that is now the turn signal.
In Japan and England cars must have brake lights and turn signal lights separate so ford was forced to make different housings for the export market. Luckily some make their way back to the states for us to buy. I love the look of them!
J_Sty_
Active Member
Damn it I need some exports to really set off my rear! Just read the whole thread and very nice build man!
Sent from your moms house
Sent from your moms house
Excellent job on the car!
Exports really pop on white too. I recall JB had a set on his CW 98 which looked incredible. Thanks man!
Thanks! It means a lot hearing that from you guys who's cars I have been keeping tabs on for years lol
J_Sty_
Active Member
Yea that car was sick as hell! Mines actually Oxford White now with the blue pearl, OW seems like a cleaner white than the CW I my opinion
Sent from your moms house
Oh for sure. The pearl on your car really sets it off. It's as clean as they come! You through export tails on it and people's minds will just melt lol
