Intermittent stalling,TFI, dizzy or CCRM

GeeTeeFiveOh

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I had my car die on the highway, pulled over was able to restart it and drive again. Then it happened where it felt like it was running on 6 cylinders. I flicked the key off then on and the problem went away. Variations of this happened about 8 times on a 100km drive.

I had code 211,212.

I ordered a new tfi module.

Looking at distributors and the msd seems to have bad reputation for longevity. Is there another performance distributor that is supposed to last longer than stock ? Or maybe one that has fixed the pip sensor problem?

What else would cause this issue? The engine and almost everything on it is new.

If anybody can answer any one of the above questions that would be great
 

CC'S95GT

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sounds like another dizzy issue again. New ford dizzy is best but a remanned dizzy is good too. there are a few people including myself that have had issues with remanned ones Just return it and eventually you'll get one that will last. I've had my last remanned dizzy in for 3 years now.
 

toyman

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Richporter seems to have a good track record. New for about $100.
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Thanks I'll look into that, swapped the Ignition Control Module and while it made it idle a little smoother I still have the same problem where the car shuts of momentarily. If the distributor does not fix my problem I'll be pretty disappointed
 

95opal

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sounds like another dizzy issue again. New ford dizzy is best but a remanned dizzy is good too. there are a few people including myself that have had issues with remanned ones Just return it and eventually you'll get one that will last. I've had my last remanned dizzy in for 3 years now.


+1
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Well I bought an 94-95 MSD distributor and I'm getting the same problem.. (It's okay I wanted one anyway)

I managed to capture the problem happen while datalogging with my tweecer.

Trying to copy paste parts of my data log but this forum does not like my preffered internet browser google chrome.. going into explorer
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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I cant make this post the way I want it so Ill have to just explain what my datalogs are showing

At time "X" my HEGO 1 + 2 votages spike to 2.56v (highest it should go is 1v) then at same time my rpm, tps, maf, iac etc all read out ZERO! It changes from closed loop crusing to open loop right after this moment. What would do this? I have it documented about 5 times

Also when I was sitting at a light idleing the engine conked out completely with no warning, it was a steady 850 rpm then conk. I noticed the fuel pump kept going after the car had stalled out. It did not shut off until I turned the key back. This sounds like a ccrm issue which also houses the ecu power relay. Would the ecu losing power create my symptoms? just trying to connect the dots here.

The next action I take to fix this issue has got to be better educated than when I bought the TFI and dizzy tring to fix this. Any help is greatly appreciated !!!!
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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another data logged stumbled showed at time "x" my load spike up to 98% while I was cruising consistantly at around 45-50% load at steady speed on highway. During time x the only values that dropped to zero was the calculated instant MPG and MPH.

The logged MPH is a bit different that what the speedo in the gauge cluster shows I think it is derived in some calculation however my rpm stayed pretty consistent around 1800

Sometimes my speedo in the cluster gets stuck at 90kph when I go past that speed and slow down, The datalogged MPH does not do this if I watch the computer while driving and this is the first I've seen it drop to zero while driving.

I thought the speedometer is mechanical and seperate from the computer since you cant simply calibrate for different gears tires etc. Is this correct? I wanna rule the issue with the speedo getting stuck at 90 out for causing my stumble / buck
 

CC'S95GT

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I think your speedo issue is seperate from the stalling issue. My speedo that acts up too with no change in driveability. Have you ck'd you grounds? including the one on the PCM.
 

modo

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since the car started right back up i would look at the ignition switch before you start throwing money towards the distributor

.02
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Well I installed new parts:

new MSD distributor
new ICM (TFI)
new Ignition switch
new ignition lock cylinder switch
new fancy battery terminals

I went over the wiring and grounds and found no faults whatsoever. Getting annoyed I decided to see how the car runs on the stock tune. The problem persisted so I took my EEC out and removed the Tweecer drove the car and bingo!! problem is gone and I drove over 100k. Since I'm running the stock tune on my HCI combo it does not idle or WOT the greatest so now I gotta look into tuning modules again. Damnit this is turning into such a money pit
 

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