Yeaaa...I'm trying to avoid a BOOM...baby steps guys, baby steps...this is my first boosted setup. I'm going mild PSI, simple setup...I don't care about the cost of upgrading down the road...budget won't be an issue once I get rolling into my new job.
JB's Boostin into 2012
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justinschmidt1
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Lol, alright...I mean you can always put a FMIC on there to be safe and run lower boost with it...8 psi or something.
Then in the future all you would need is to swap the pully to a smaller size and get a re tune.
Are you gonna be running the stock 3.6 pulley?
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yeah, I mean realistically you can run 10psi non intercooled just fine...you dont beat on your car at all...just get a solid tune and eventually down the road consider some sort of cooler
justinschmidt1
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Yep, the good thing about a vortech is they seem to be very good when it comes to keeping the iats down so lots of people run them non intercooled with no problems.
The v3 probably stays even cooler since the oil temps are way lower.
Im a firm believer in the tune...look at my car. I beat the hell out of it and im way over the "safe" limit and ive had no problems.
Who are you planning on getting to tune the car?
The v3 probably stays even cooler since the oil temps are way lower.
Im a firm believer in the tune...look at my car. I beat the hell out of it and im way over the "safe" limit and ive had no problems.
Who are you planning on getting to tune the car?
Haven't made an official decision yet...but Mike (stprolla49) and I are going to be working on our setups together...so I'll probably end up bringing my car to CT with him...EFI Logics I think the name is.
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tuning with SCT software?
Yea...haven't purchased anything yet though.
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eh that can be picked up 20 mins before your tune. If you end up tuning in NJ make sure you hit me up first, I can give you tons of input on the tuners in NJ
Yea stock pulley and a powerpipe...should see around 10 psi
justinschmidt1
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yea, sound about right assuming the power pipe actually gives you 2 psi.
Its more affordable than you would think...collect the parts over time and before you know if, you have a complete kit.That would be sick, Wish i could afford boostlol
There are alot of people on this forum with Boost..... But out of all the People, Me and justin are the 2 guys driving out boosted cars everyday, beating the crap out of the cars, and did all the work ourselves. Unlike others who install a blower and only drive it 300 miles then sell the unit....
IMHO, I would not ever run 10psi Non-innercooled. A street car is Leaps and bounds different from a track car that goes on and off the trailer. A steet car has to deal with harsh environment with ever changing conditions. It will save you alot of time, money, and hassle if you just install a CX Racing Front Mount I/C at the same times as the blower install. If you install the I/C later on, you need to get all new piping, a new maf, a new tune, and re-stall the blower AGAIN cause it has be to re-clocked.
I/C is essential to a street car with boost. Every OEM manufacture that uses boost ways uses a A-to-A or A-to-W I/C system because it is necessary for performance and safety.
Yeah, you can install the Blower and run 10psi non-innercooled, but its not gonna make power. The whole point of the I/C system is to avoid pulling timing. With the I/C system, the computer can keep timing high and create more power. With a Non-I/C system boosting 10 PSI, the computer will pretty much always be pulling timing and you will be sacrificing Power.
Yes, the CX racing I/C does cause boost lose, but all you need to do is change pulley to gain back the pound that was lost. There are people on ModdedMustang.com with this same set up.
When i installed my KB, i could have saved $1000 and gon non-I/C, but after DD the car for 6,000 miles, i feel that would have been a HUGE Mistake. I have driven my car boosting 11 PSI in 105 Degree ambiant temps while beating it..... I know if that would have been done without a I/C, i could see many problems occurring.
A good racing once said "Do it right the first time, or you will just do it again, and again, and again"
IMHO, I would not ever run 10psi Non-innercooled. A street car is Leaps and bounds different from a track car that goes on and off the trailer. A steet car has to deal with harsh environment with ever changing conditions. It will save you alot of time, money, and hassle if you just install a CX Racing Front Mount I/C at the same times as the blower install. If you install the I/C later on, you need to get all new piping, a new maf, a new tune, and re-stall the blower AGAIN cause it has be to re-clocked.
I/C is essential to a street car with boost. Every OEM manufacture that uses boost ways uses a A-to-A or A-to-W I/C system because it is necessary for performance and safety.
Yeah, you can install the Blower and run 10psi non-innercooled, but its not gonna make power. The whole point of the I/C system is to avoid pulling timing. With the I/C system, the computer can keep timing high and create more power. With a Non-I/C system boosting 10 PSI, the computer will pretty much always be pulling timing and you will be sacrificing Power.
Yes, the CX racing I/C does cause boost lose, but all you need to do is change pulley to gain back the pound that was lost. There are people on ModdedMustang.com with this same set up.
When i installed my KB, i could have saved $1000 and gon non-I/C, but after DD the car for 6,000 miles, i feel that would have been a HUGE Mistake. I have driven my car boosting 11 PSI in 105 Degree ambiant temps while beating it..... I know if that would have been done without a I/C, i could see many problems occurring.
A good racing once said "Do it right the first time, or you will just do it again, and again, and again"
justinschmidt1
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Yea, it really is. Add up all your bolt ons over the years and you probably could have a vortech by the time you do all the bs bolt ons, gears, and tunes we all do.
Well this car is not my daily driver...so that doesn't really apply. I could drive it 10,000 miles this year, or 10 if I want.
I appreciate this moral Meth vs I/C debate...but at the end of the day, its my car and I'll be making the final decision. I have some time to decide as I'm not going to be doing the install until late March, but I'll definitely keep you guys posted.
I appreciate this moral Meth vs I/C debate...but at the end of the day, its my car and I'll be making the final decision. I have some time to decide as I'm not going to be doing the install until late March, but I'll definitely keep you guys posted.
justinschmidt1
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I agree with handz although I will say that a PD blower and a Centri blower are different animals in terms of heat production.
I would never do Meth as an intercooler replacement, JMO.
But its his car and I believe he will be fine with no intercooler and that boost level since I honestly dont think vortech units create much heat at all.
I would never do Meth as an intercooler replacement, JMO.
But its his car and I believe he will be fine with no intercooler and that boost level since I honestly dont think vortech units create much heat at all.
I did just that with the 5.4 Lighting car when i built it but sadly it was parted out before i ever got to enjoy it. I was thinking of going with a centri unit with mine but i just can't make up my mind the head units can be had for cheap but all the other misc parts to get it up and running add up and end up being costly.Guessing over 2k. For $600 Bucks i can have safe nitrous kit and make similar numbers as a blown car..
IDK about you guys but with my driving style idk if i need 440 ish hp on tap at all times, Might just get me in trouble.
IDK about you guys but with my driving style idk if i need 440 ish hp on tap at all times, Might just get me in trouble.
justinschmidt1
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Lol, its such a bad thing...I cant keep my foot out of it. I go through tires fast too
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