My '02 GT Coyote Swap

[weendoggy]

After a year of dealing with "stuff", I've decided to go another route. I'm still doing my Coyote swap and without going into details I hope to be ready for the track in a couple of months. I'm putting the Gen 1 in my '02 GT while keeping the 3650. Main reason is the max torque rating and the fact I don't beat the crap out of it. So far the engine is out and I've installed a new oil pump and crank boundary gears and contemplating just putting on new chains/tensioners because the cam/chain kit is on national b/o. Engine only has 85k so not too worried and I can piece all the parts separately so that may be the direction I take. Hate to have things apart and not replace them. Posted a few pics here as I'm doing most of the documentation on YT, but trying to remember to get some stills. Having fun and almost to the excitement stage.

Once I get to the wiring portion I'll be in my element. I love dealing with that for some reason, plus figuring out the routing and such. Using the PBH N/A Speed Drive setup.


Engine just removed from donor. Right CAT nut outer side was a bit**.


Prepping for PBH alternator relocator.


Checking alternator clearance. All good! This is just a test fit.


Before...


...cover removed, oil pump not in just yet but it all came apart just fine.

 

[weendoggy]

Well, all the original Ford timing chains/sprockets (sans the boundary crank gear) are going back in. 85k isn't much and if there's an issue down the road and parts are available from Ford, I'll tear it apart in the car. The only thing I changed is the new boundary crank sprocket. I don't think I'll have any problems and spoke with PBH about it and they do the same. Time will tell. I did get the boundary gears in the pump and it's all back on, so next is the chains and covers etc. so I can button this up while I'm gone for a week. After that, all hell is going to break loose in the garage!!


Installing the boundary oil pump gears. That's a new pump as well. NOTE: I fixed the flat tire (both of them).


This is a trick I did on an LS3 Camaro, only that one I did IN THE CAR! Oh my! Didn't drop it either.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Good thing you got a new pump to go with the new gears. Foxcast put out a thing a little while ago that makes a lot of sense where people were roasting their used oil pumps with new gears. Guess the tolerances are so exact to the point that if you mix worn-in components with new ones it's a recipe for disaster.

 

[weendoggy]

Good thing you got a new pump to go with the new gears. Foxcast put out a thing a little while ago that makes a lot of sense where people were roasting their used oil pumps with new gears. Guess the tolerances are so exact to the point that if you mix worn-in components with new ones it's a recipe for disaster.

True. I also used a feeler gauge .015 on two sides of the pump to check interference. I believe Ford did a change re: the issue with the pump housing, but not sure.

I was able to source a Melling chain/tensioner kit and replaced those items. Lined everything up (twice) and double checked my work. This is the first Coyote I've been into so taking a little extra precaution but really won't know until I fire it up. There's always doubts, but relief when it all works.

I have new GT covers etc. because I was going to replace them anyway due to some minor damage. Now you can let me know what you think. I have pictures below. I will be keeping the top intake cover. I could really mess with people and paint the intake runners black. A good eye would see the lack of the Control Valve Actuators.

I'll be away for a week so no rush. Thanks.


This is my first choice and like the look.


Stock OEM and I would paint the coil cover if going this route.


Top view.


New timing chains and tensioners.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Definitely new. The color separation really looks good.

 

[cobrajeff96]

I hear ya on the butterflies of setting up a new motor. I have yet to fire mine up and even though I triple checked everything you never really know until it starts purring. I must've ran through the gen2 timing procedure 5 times just to make sure I wouldn't grenade the engine on first fire up. Thing rotates like butter by hand, and I got a pretty nice way of priming the engine and the OPGs before first fire.

Solid stainless oil line going from oil filter adapter on the block, up the front of the valve cover with a mechanical gauge inline, then to a distribution block mounted to the driver side fuel rail where at the end of it a quick disconnect fitting attaches to a pressurized 10qt tank. Bulletproof.

Check it out...

 

[weendoggy]

That thing is too nice to run!

So you're just using the OP port to prime the system? Nice setup. I did something similar "back in the day" on Detroit 6v, 8v fuel systems.

Yeah, spinning the thing over by hand and having tensioners not keep extending is nerve wracking. I kept thinking I had a "spot" but found it was lack of pressure on chains.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Yea, the oil filter adapter has a couple ports on it, one of which is used here for both the visual inspection gauge in front of the valve cover as well as a priming setup I plumbed in.

Which tensioners were you using? I haven't yet had a problem maintaining proper tension/timing with the Boss 302 tensioners. I can't speak for the OEM aluminum units because those were the first things to get changed when I started my project.

 

[weendoggy]

Yeah, the oil filter adapter has a couple ports on it, one of which is used here for both the visual inspection gauge in front of the valve cover as well as a priming setup I plumbed in.

Which tensioners were you using? I haven't yet had a problem maintaining proper tension/timing with the Boss 302 tensioners. I can't speak for the OEM aluminum units because those were the first things to get changed when I started my project.

It was the cam phaser tensioners. They don't have oil per say in them yet and were sticking a bit. Those cam gears aren't round, they're oblong. Funny watching the tensioner go up and down. The Melling kit had the Boss tensioners and that's what came off the engine. Just going over the timing aspect it can't be wrong if all the marks and spots are lined up, but it still a bit uneasy until fire up. What threw me off the first time was the matrix on the cams. When you do the left bank they're not "level" with the head, but when you're all done, both sides are the same and level with the head. All the chains and phasers went in just right so I feel good about that. Going to button it up and get started taking the 4.6 out next week so I can get started on the rest.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Yea, apparently Ford doesn't tension the slack side of the secondaries. Been that way since the start of the modular platform. Weird to me.

 

[lwarrior1016]

they tension the slack side in the passenger chain, the driver side is not. MMR sells a bracket that allows you to flip the secondary chain on the driver side so it tensions the correct part of the chain.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Yes, one of the other things I did preemptively before I stuffed the motor into the girl.

 

[weendoggy]

Off for a week but now back to get focused on the swap. Finished install on front cover, w/p and mock-up of PBH system to see how it goes. Still have to torque crank bolt, but will do that once it's off the stand and flywheel on so I can lock it. Not a fan of a strap wrench. Found also I need to get a new dip stick tube to install in the GT500 covers. The stock one is too large. Will put the harness and misc. stuff on and let it sit while I start removing the 4.6L. Plan is to get that out next week as this one is very busy.


PBH mock-up and note on crank to torque bolt. W/P pulley is just temp. snug for routing.


Side shot, but nothing exciting. However, I do like the new cam covers!

 

[weendoggy]

Been busy with the install so here's an update. First, it's in with trans and exhaust. Now the fun part. Trying to fit 5#'s of stuff in a 4# area. So far, not too bad and got the PCM mounted yesterday. Figuring out the wiring now. Will run both Trans and Power leads from PCM on the inner fender panel with Trans coming back through the A/C-fuel hole to the transmission/O2 sensors. De-pinned my 42pin connector to grab wires for A/C, OP, Coolant and Crank sensors. Also needed to grab power/b-u lights from two other plugs so de-pinned the unneeded ones there. Pretty much cleaning up what I don't need. In the process of dieting (some wires) out of the Coyote harness that aren't needed, i.e. backup circuit, OSS, P/S and plan on running just one 3/4" loom to the interior for DLC, pedal and power.

Biggest challenge is trying to get a lower radiator hose to the Coyote. The 4.6 lower is 1 3/4" at the rad. and 1 1/2" at the outlet. Not doing to well on that right now. I think I'll be able to mount the A/F on the passenger side due to the PCM mounting low and use my existing degas tank and keep the battery in it's regular spot. Will have to make a custom mount for the power steering reservoir.

Haven't started the fuel install yet, but will be using the C5 regulated filter for now and see how that goes. I think I can eliminate the pressure do-dah that's in the delivery fuel line from the hard line to the old 4.6 rail. Can't see why I'd need that.


Engine in and just figuring out room.


These things were a PITA to get in. R/S I had to remove the engine mount to get to a few lower bolts. I can't imagine doing this without a lift. I'm too old for that crap!


PCM mounted in side rail where A/F grommets were. Cutout was about 2"x9". Worked out perfectly!


Underside showing trimmed stock PCM bracket.


This is the stock 4.6 hose and where I'm having issues right now.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Yea, you won't need the fuel pulsation damper. But really in my mind, you'll probably wind up going custom hoses most likely. You can reuse the old feed line as the new return. Still some work to do for that though. Just a thing you have to take as it goes.

I once had my old Gen 1 'big rig' computer kind of dangling, then decided to mount it in the wet cowl passneger side. It was barely fitting, and was ugly. Later went Gen2 and the whole thing worked out magically as far as aesthetics and freedom of movement/serviceability/etc. That was no kidding a two-day job because FRPP likes to give you a long engine harness in order to simulate the placement of the PCM in the late model Coyote location near the passenger side radiator. I wasn't ok with it so I opened the harness, made new solder sleeve connections to either shorten some wires or lengthen others all so I could have the perfect harness leading up to the wet cowl.

Power steering I went with PBH's direct engine mount. Only thing of it is, I had to relocate the fuse box out of its way. Bit of a pain and took the better part of a day to not only relocate and fabricate new sheet metal mounting points but to shorten certain wires in that harness and make others longer. Solder sleeves to the rescue! But damn if it doesn't look factory Ford or better.

For the coolant, I too had to go the custom route because the big p/s pulley used for the PBH solution was super close to that hose (using the control pack coyote lower hose) and I was not feeling it. First during the Gen1 era I had a couple of 1.5" hoses at 45* bends, 6" legs on either side of the bend with a hose joiner in the middle. Worked well. Then later (now) in the Gen2 era I decided I was going to take ZERO chances letting a hose contact a pulley and went full AN -24 on both ends. Had a guy tig weld up the big-A fittings (with the thermostat removed of course) and now it's very cleanly routed. If it wasn't steel-braided, you'd think it was factory Ford. But alas, it may not work in the long run because a braided hose this fat is extremely stiff and has me worried welds will crack at either end or both. So... I may end up going -24 pushlock ends with just plain old rubber for some elasticity and just overbraid it with nylon so it doesn't fail in the ugly department.

But I'm 100% there is a solution out there for you regarding connecting your coolant hoses. For one, I can tell you right away that you can ditch that three-way hose you were planning on using because the degas hooks right up to the Yote driver side heater line, directly. Pegasus Auto Racing has a great selection and there's plenty other vendors out there too. Search for reducing silicone hose or something to that effect. Pegasus let's you browse by shape, diameter, etc. I'm sure you can find something. Hell, I did.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Upper radiator hose for a 4.0 jeep will fit. That’s what I run and so does white95. I guess the only issue would be interference from the power steering pulley. We still have the alternator down there and it fits with no problem.

 

[weendoggy]

Yea, you won't need the fuel pulsation damper. But really in my mind, you'll probably wind up going custom hoses most likely. You can reuse the old feed line as the new return. Still some work to do for that though. Just a thing you have to take as it goes.

I once had my old Gen 1 'big rig' computer kind of dangling, then decided to mount it in the wet cowl passneger side. It was barely fitting, and was ugly. Later went Gen2 and the whole thing worked out magically as far as aesthetics and freedom of movement/serviceability/etc. That was no kidding a two-day job because FRPP likes to give you a long engine harness in order to simulate the placement of the PCM in the late model Coyote location near the passenger side radiator. I wasn't ok with it so I opened the harness, made new solder sleeve connections to either shorten some wires or lengthen others all so I could have the perfect harness leading up to the wet cowl.

Power steering I went with PBH's direct engine mount. Only thing of it is, I had to relocate the fuse box out of its way. Bit of a pain and took the better part of a day to not only relocate and fabricate new sheet metal mounting points but to shorten certain wires in that harness and make others longer. Solder sleeves to the rescue! But damn if it doesn't look factory Ford or better.

For the coolant, I too had to go the custom route because the big p/s pulley used for the PBH solution was super close to that hose (using the control pack coyote lower hose) and I was not feeling it. First during the Gen1 era I had a couple of 1.5" hoses at 45* bends, 6" legs on either side of the bend with a hose joiner in the middle. Worked well. Then later (now) in the Gen2 era I decided I was going to take ZERO chances letting a hose contact a pulley and went full AN -24 on both ends. Had a guy tig weld up the big-A fittings (with the thermostat removed of course) and now it's very cleanly routed. If it wasn't steel-braided, you'd think it was factory Ford. But alas, it may not work in the long run because a braided hose this fat is extremely stiff and has me worried welds will crack at either end or both. So... I may end up going -24 pushlock ends with just plain old rubber for some elasticity and just overbraid it with nylon so it doesn't fail in the ugly department.

But I'm 100% there is a solution out there for you regarding connecting your coolant hoses. For one, I can tell you right away that you can ditch that three-way hose you were planning on using because the degas hooks right up to the Yote driver side heater line, directly. Pegasus Auto Racing has a great selection and there's plenty other vendors out there too. Search for reducing silicone hose or something to that effect. Pegasus let's you browse by shape, diameter, etc. I'm sure you can find something. Hell, I did.

Thanks for the encouragement. I don't give up easily. I really don't plan on using the 4.6 "Y" hose, just put that in as a reference on end diameters. I'm going to search a bit for a hose and go from there. I do plan on trying to keep my stock degas tank and not use the Coyote one because there's no room for it in my plan. Unless I can't fit the intake/MAF to the passenger side, it should work fine. Then I'll route a hose straight to the engine from the degas.

I have fuel fittings and hose to configure the system. Using the C5 filter so will only have one line to the front. I'll make connection lines and have a gauge as well.

My MM tower brace will fit, but not with the cover on so will either modify the cover or make a new cross bar this winter after the hood is on and I know what kind of clearance I have.

Also using the PBH speed drive with the stock 4.6 stuff and will make a new bracket for the PS reservoir. I think I have an idea and hope I don't have to move the PDB.

I'm going to take some time off this weekend for a track day then back at it on Monday. I have several YT video's I'm also working on showing what was done.


Figured I can remove the existing fan power due to the Coyote controlling the fan. Then I'll enlarge the hole and mount the new fuse power there and put the battery lead/fuse bar on the inner fender. Also moving some of the unneeded 4.6 harness to the inner fender area.


Just laying out the harness to accommodate my taste. I'll connect the BU and OSS with the Coyote harness once it gets inside the engine bay area.


Just getting organized and will shorten the alternator leads as well as making a new fan wire. PCM harness is pretty much how it's going to run. Some of the 4.6 harness will be dieted and/or moved. Crank (shielded) harness will marry the PCM engine harness (middle block).

 

[cobrajeff96]

How do you plan to trigger factory A/C equipment with your setup? Curious to know. I currently still run CCRM to do it all. I basically have Control Pack only caring about the Coyote, essentially standalone from the entire car with only splicing here or there for tach and other little things.

I use the original 96 Cobra degas tank mainly because I really enjoy the convenience of the low coolant sensor. I wasn't happy when I found out the Baer Remaster didn't have a provision for the low brake fluid sensor. But I went with Pegasus to find the raw material to route the degas output to the Coyote input, as pictured.

With hood clearance and/or clearance for the intake decorative cover... you may have to get K-member spacers from MM. At first I used their 1/4" and it was fine for clearancing. But then I chanced the 1/2" spacers and I'm glad I did. Got me a perfect driveline angle as a result: 1.7* down on trans and 1.7* up on differential. Plus even more clearance and lower center of gravity overall (I think). I haven't yet fitted the intake cover myself because I haven't started to to my first shake down runs yet and most of the gauges in the engine bay will interfere with the cover. Those gauges are mainly just for initial checkups to make sure everything is right. Once it's all good, they get removed and the cover goes on permanently. And there is plenty of clearance for it all, but I'm just not sure it would have the necessary gap without K-frame spacers.

Just make sure on the p/s reservoir wherever you choose to mount it that it can still gravity feed the pump pretty well. The straighter the shot the better. Nothing worse than a p/s pump cavitating the system while driving.

 

[weendoggy]

Upper radiator hose for a 4.0 jeep will fit. That’s what I run and so does white95. I guess the only issue would be interference from the power steering pulley. We still have the alternator down there and it fits with no problem.

I take it that's the 22900 Gates hose you mention in the Coyote thread.

 

[weendoggy]

How do you plan to trigger factory A/C equipment with your setup? Curious to know. I currently still run CCRM to do it all. I basically have Control Pack only caring about the Coyote, essentially standalone from the entire car with only splicing here or there for tach and other little things.

The AC is controlled via the stock setup. Not going through the CP due to other issues. Have to wait and see how it does at idle speed. Basically, still stock 4.6

I use the original 96 Cobra degas tank mainly because I really enjoy the convenience of the low coolant sensor. I wasn't happy when I found out the Baer Remaster didn't have a provision for the low brake fluid sensor. But I went with Pegasus to find the raw material to route the degas output to the Coyote input, as pictured.

I hope to use my stock '02 degas. A little different but not much. I need to source a hose from it to the w/p tube above t-stat.

With hood clearance and/or clearance for the intake decorative cover... you may have to get K-member spacers from MM. At first I used their 1/4" and it was fine for clearancing. But then I chanced the 1/2" spacers and I'm glad I did. Got me a perfect driveline angle as a result: 1.7* down on trans and 1.7* up on differential. Plus even more clearance and lower center of gravity overall (I think). I haven't yet fitted the intake cover myself because I haven't started to to my first shake down runs yet and most of the gauges in the engine bay will interfere with the cover. Those gauges are mainly just for initial checkups to make sure everything is right. Once it's all good, they get removed and the cover goes on permanently. And there is plenty of clearance for it all, but I'm just not sure it would have the necessary gap without K-frame spacers.

Don't plan on using any spacers to raise the body off the K member. It fits fine right now and just had to lower my rack to give me clearance. If I have room for the strut cross piece to be raised an inch or so, I'll be good. Will have to wait for the hood.

Just make sure on the p/s reservoir wherever you choose to mount it that it can still gravity feed the pump pretty well. The straighter the shot the better. Nothing worse than a p/s pump cavitating the system while driving.

Hope to be able to put the reservoir just in front of the head or to the side a bit, which will be just about where it was. Hate the thought of having to move the BJB.