My '02 GT Coyote Swap

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weendoggy

weendoggy

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So, would the t be possible for you to get a fuel hat from fore innovations and remove the basket to make room for the hydramat?


Also, side question, how do you have you fuel pump being triggered? Is that pcm controlled or just coming on with the key?
Mr. Warrior,

I have a few ideas and am ordering one of these to test. Don't know why it wouldn't fit unless the bolt pattern is off, and I can change wiring if needed. Says its for a 03-04, but all I need is the hanger and will use my pump (not two). The hydramat will be the pickup and I can do without the basket unless I can fish it through the opening in it, which I think I can. Any reason why this may not be a good choice? Asking those who've been around these more than me. ;)
dual_pump.jpg
 
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weendoggy

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Did more brain storming today and have a few plans. First is this: put fitting on return line into tank and fed the sump direct instead of letting fuel just go into tank body. Hoping this may rectify the fuel starvation at 1/2 tank or less on high G-load turns/sweepers. At least it's going directly back into the sump. If not, I'm going to plan B. I will know in a few weeks during my track weekend. Fitting the track day starts April 1st. I pitty the fool. :p

fuel_sump_mod.jpg
 
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weendoggy

weendoggy

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Not so sure thats a good idea.
I'm sure you're thinking about "foaming" or how that may effect the pickup. I thought about it too and many Fox bodies have the return stop well short of the baffled sump. I have that setup in my Cobra and no issues with return causing a problem. Now, taking that into account, I figured it's worth a try. The GT sump is semi-closed with ample escape areas for fuel. It is not a sealed sump by far. The pump pickup is at the "flapper" valve in the bottom with another external (not sure how to put that) pickup to the tank. It's worth a test for me to try and keep the sump full as best I can. I do have an alternate idea with the Hydramat, but wanted to experiment. If it's a crappy idea, I may find out in the next few days. :oops:
 
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weendoggy

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Well the anticipation was killing me, much like catsup or ketchup, but the results are in...or are they. Well I did my fuel pump return modification and put it to the test this past weekend at Thunderhill Raceway in CA. Knowing where 5gal (1/4 tank) and 10gal (between 1/2 and 3/4 tank) are on the gauge, I filled it up prior to my first run day. Took it down to under 1/2 tank by the third session and nothing happened. Decided to fill it up, run another session that day and then finish up the next day without topping off. Ran a total of three sessions the next day and after two, was just below 1/2 tank. Went out for the last time with all intention of paying attention (pun intended) to the fuel gauge and noticing when/if it puttered out so I'd know. :rolleyes:

Well, I drove the snot out of it and forgot all about watching the gauge. The car was performing and I was in my zone, staying near the 2:15's I was doing all weekend. Drove back into the paddock and onto the trailer. Then, my buddy shows up after fueling and I said, "oh crap, I forgot to check my fuel gauge!". I started up the car and checked....below 1/4 tank of fuel!!! Yipppeee!!! No starvation at all and I was going to pay attention in some corners just in case it dumped so I'd have a chance to control it. Well, never needed to and now can be happy my idea worked. So, aiming the return line directly to the fuel sump container did the job and I'm confident it won't stall on high 'G' corners like before. ;)

Had a few close ones and need to edit before posting. Here's a fun clip of me at T10 and a fox body and my buddies, '99 Kenny Bell. Short but sweet!

Also, still shot of the same corner. Photos and slo-mode by Dito Milian of www.gotbluemilk.com

T10_t-hill8x5.jpg
 
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weendoggy

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That’s good news!
I have another track outing next month at Sonoma (scene of the initial findings) and will purposely run it low so I can see if it stalls coming out of the carousel.
 
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weendoggy

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Back to the scene of the crime, well, not exactly a crime, but I was robbed (so to speak). As I pondered last years fuel starvation at 1/2 tank, then thought I fixed the issue and proceeded to my "fix" and tested at Thunderhill earlier this year, I was very optomistic the issue was resolved. So, now back to the scene, exit of carousel at Sonoma, I was hoping my experiment did not fail me again. Well, after reading this far I can say, yes, IT IS GONE!!! I am finally over the starvation issue and anyone who runs a New Edge GT tank with return line should do this mod. It f'n works! I ran the fuel down to only 3gals in the tank and it never missed a beat. I'm very pleased and now can go about trying to find a little more time to save. Thinking of moving to a wider track tire. Currently 255/40/17 on 9" rims. Having the extra power I think I can afford to put 275's on, without having to move to a 18" wheel or compromising speed. Time to do some investigating. :cool:
 
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weendoggy

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Going to add this bit to my swap post only to keep it all together. I had installed a Holley Coyote Swap Oil pan earlier this year and thought it was all good. Plenty of clearance and very nice looking. However, after a few track days and driving, I found an oil leak. It was coming from a bad weld (Holley) and I ended up sending it back for another and inspecting it prior to installing again. I also modified the oil drain to a 18mm x 1.50 thread with vitron/steel gasket. Much nicer! My YouTube channel shows this. Point being, if you're doing this from the get-go, don't use the stock oil pan because it's just too damn close or hitting the rack. jmo

static_leak.jpg

new_drain_plug.jpg
 

Venompower

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Man I applaud the work, but it's threads like these that scare me away from considering a swap like this down the road when it becomes necessary to refresh my current engine. Rocket Surgery for sure!
My, my how things change lol.
 
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weendoggy

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My, my how things change lol.
Huh? Nothing's changed, it's still not rocket science. ;) It's to the point of where it should've been up front. I just had to figure a lot out that hasn't been explained or done. I'm not saying my way was perfect, but I did my best. Like everything else, you have to make/design things if you're first, before it catches on and becomes a comodity. The same thing happened building my Cobra 25yrs ago. People building them now can buy have what we designed years ago.
 

Venompower

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Huh? Nothing's changed, it's still not rocket science. ;) It's to the point of where it should've been up front. I just had to figure a lot out that hasn't been explained or done. I'm not saying my way was perfect, but I did my best. Like everything else, you have to make/design things if you're first, before it catches on and becomes a comodity. The same thing happened building my Cobra 25yrs ago. People building them now can buy have what we designed years ago.
I said that in response to my message since I now have a Gen 3 Coyote on a stand in my garage... my post didn't age well lol.
 

Venompower

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Doh! :eek: Welcome to the madness. You won't be sorry!
It’s not going to be easy… but it also doesn’t have to be quick. Trying to get the engine swapped over to Mustang spec. Then I can focus on one system at a time, so I don’t get overwhelmed… having a tubular k-member and TK0600 make it less daunting to get started. Will definitely be going through your thread as I do mine for tips and ideas!
 

cobrajeff96

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Get 1/2" or at least 1/4" K-member spacers. The angle that the gen 3 intake kicks up the throttle body will save you from having to get a cowl hood. You can buy an angled silicone hose to go from throttle body to intake tube but even that might not allow the tube to clear the hood. It's a tight fit with the 2018+ intake manifold.
 

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