My '02 GT Coyote Swap

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weendoggy

weendoggy

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Nice work on those bends. How well did it fit in the car?
Thanks for the comment. It took about 1 1/2 hours and lots of floor space. I had to tweak it just a bit in the rear, so pulled back out and did that, now fits good. Front needs small bend and I can do that once secure to the frame. Using the existing tube brackets and will use screws to hold a few back in due to drilling out the rivets. Overall, very pleased. Could always do better though. :) I'll get a few completed shots when done.
 

Musturd

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Nice work on the hardlines . I also like to tidy up harnesses . The plastic big o style pipe loom is trash for sure
 
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weendoggy

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Fuel lines are in!!! Damn, what a job. Took 4 days with bending, measuring, cutting, welding, painting... Now I hope I don't have a leak. :eek:
Routing these lines with the MM full frame is a challenge. I removed them twice while bending and didn't ruin any. I'll add that removing the sway bar helped, but if the Panhard setup wasn't in it'd be that much easier.

So, without going into detail...pics are worth more.

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lwarrior1016

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I hope you don’t plan on tracking the car. Firewall mounted regulator is a no go.

Great work on that line though, it looks factory, I like it a lot
 
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weendoggy

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I hope you don’t plan on tracking the car. Firewall mounted regulator is a no go.

Great work on that line though, it looks factory, I like it a lot
I only open track the car. My Cobra's had one on the firewall for over 22yrs. Both are just open track use.
If I had room somewhere else, it could go there. Running lines is easy.
 

cobrajeff96

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Good work on the hardline sections. I would bet a tech inspector wouldn't even be able to note the differences.
 
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weendoggy

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It’s an NHRA rule that has to do with exploding transmissions/flywheels.
OK, because I have a pea brain, where would they like it? I know I could figure that out. So this begs another question, where do factory fuel rail regulators fall in this area? I need to get edumakated.:rolleyes:

Thanks for all the nice comments. It's a PITA but I hate going back to fix something twice.
 

white95

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It’s a non-issue if you aren’t submitting your car for competition tech inspection. I wouldn’t move it unless I had to.

Lol pea brain

Anywhere ahead of the flywheel.
 
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weendoggy

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Where are you finding the pins and how are you determining which pins to get? I feel the same way you do about splicing, but I’ve had a hard time finding pins in the past.
OK, now that I know they are correct, I'm going to keep it a secret....NOT! First thing you need to know is: What the heck type of connector it is. Once that's done, it's a lot of searching, but I do have my connections...pun. ;)

I will tell you the 16pin connector in the harness (the one with 4 large wires at the corners) is a Molex 150 Hybrid. Hybrid meaning it can take different size pins. It can take three different pins. In this case, it takes a standard 1.5mm pin (12) and (4) 2.8mm pins. Now you know.

Oh, I forgot, you wanted part numbers:
M=male F=female

1.5mm
M: 33000-0002 Molex
F: 33012-2001 Molex

2.8mm
M: 1326031-5 TE Connectivity
F: 1-1326032-1 TE Connectivity
 
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weendoggy

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I was busy all week trying to get things done and today, hopefully, will be a test fire day (provided I don't have any fuel leaks). I did source my pins and finished the fuel circuit and relocated my battery forward one inch (yes, it makes a difference). Next object to tackle will be my P/S reservoir mounting.

I also ran a new (no splice) 12ga wire from the 16pin connector to the newly installed fuel pump relay (yes, I know the fuse block has one) in the trunk in place of the FP Driver Module (30). I incorporated the inertia switch because it gets it's power from the CCRM. I took the other side and wired it to the relay block (86) to trigger the relay and used the pump wire (87) to feed from the relay. Relay is grounded with pump negative (85). Basically, the relay will shut the pump off via the inertia switch if it's tripped, no matter what the PCM sees. Redundant safety.

Next was playing Fantasy Island (the tune de-pin, de-pin) kept going through my brain. o_O
I took about 20" of wire from the harness to tidy up the bundle of snakes (not exhaust) that kept bugging me. I'm happy with results and can live with it knowing it can easily be serviced if needed.

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New pump lead on left side firewall. Wire is fully wrapped in split loom sheath (that was a job in itself).

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Location inside. Followed existing harness to trunk.

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Hard wired relay box and relay. Will shut off if inertia switch is tripped.

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Didn't like the "jump rope" effect. Need to take action...

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Just finished re-pinning wires.

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Much nicer now. The tan fan wire got connected with a single plug to the orange wire. Only splice here was the ground!

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New WeightWatcher program. If you don't need it, lose it!

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All done. I'm happy with results.
 
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weendoggy

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Anywhere ahead of the flywheel.
So, mount it ahead of the flywheel and if there's an exploding transmission/flywheel....the fuel decides to stop??? Nothing's going to stop the pump from pumping raw fuel in a split line that got severed. I must be missing something, just trying to figure out the reasoning.
 
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weendoggy

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Update:
Well, it fired up, BUT, there were issues....

1. First failure was no fuel pressure even though the pump was running. So, time to TS the system. Thought about pump wiring and decided to check the pump + and - again. Yep, Ford factory diagram said RD/BK + and BRN/PNK - so I decided to swap them. Bingo, fuel pressure!! Just had to change the ground/hot lead at my relay I installed in the trunk and all good. I guess Ford made a mistake in their diagram manual. o_O

2. Now I had a small fuel leak at a fitting, but it was just not tightened so that was taken care of and pressure set to 56psi.

3. Next failure was cranking but no start. Double checked the ignition hot/run/start and that was good so thought about a lot of things. I figured it had to be spark so I thought about the crank signal (at the 42pin block) and tying that into the Coyote PCM. I was getting oil pressure so that was good. Decided to just unplug the 42pin and give it a whirl.

4. We have ignition and it runs! :) Now I have to find out why it's not working right.

De-pinned both crank wires, plugged the 42pin back in and all works fine. So, now have to figure out why I can't get a tach signal to use my stock gauges. I'm guessing it's grounding out signal on the Coyote and/or confusing the system. I've seen others with a GenII work o.k. so hope that I can figure it out.

All that's left now is the P/S reservoir which I'm working on fabricating a bracket to mount it to the inner fender. Hope to have that done by tomorrow so I can button it up and get it to the muffler shop to tie in my "X" pipe. However, it does sound good. :cool:
 

cobrajeff96

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Which generation motor / control pack is this again? For gen 1, there is a tach lead provided. But Gen 2 and up you need to tap into a wire (gray lead off the body side of the C146 inline from body to engine harness) using a tach adapter. I think I used Autometer 9117 but I can't be 100% on that one as it's been a while since I wired it all in.
 
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weendoggy

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Which generation motor / control pack is this again? For gen 1, there is a tach lead provided. But Gen 2 and up you need to tap into a wire (gray lead off the body side of the C146 inline from body to engine harness) using a tach adapter. I think I used Autometer 9117 but I can't be 100% on that one as it's been a while since I wired it all in.
This is a Gen I setup. I do have a separate tach lead provided. However, the '02 system used it's can/bus to signal the tach (like the Coyote) from my understanding and to use the stock setup you just tap the crank sensor wires to the Coyote and I've read it works, but so far, no go. I don't know of a way to tap into the stock tach and make it work, if it's even possible. I just hate to swap the dash with something I don't like and do more work. I'll keep plugging along but that isn't going to stop me. I'll use my shift light for safety.
 

cobrajeff96

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Yea, I'm pretty sure the autometer tach adapter has in its instructions a segment just for the 99+ Mustangs. Actually, I just found it (attached). So it's another option to try at least. I'm not 100% it would work but any change you make can be unmade.

I would think that the "Clean Tach Out" signal is a standard square wave because back when I had the gen one in my 96, it was a straight connection and the tach worked like a dream. Maybe that same signal can get work with the 9117 and get you that tach working. Maybe speak with Autometer as well and hear what they have to say about it.
 

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  • Autometer Tach Adapter for Gen2.pdf
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weendoggy

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Quick update:

Heading out today to hopefully get it wrapped up, sans my coolant tank which is being modified. Spent a few days making my custom p/s reservoir bracket and finalizing all the battery and minor wiring near the battery. Very pleased on the p/s reservoir bracket. It fits like a glove! Bonus is I designed it to be easily removed without disturbing any wiring or battery cables! I've attached a couple of pictures and will show more detail in another post. I have to get this to the exhaust shop this week to connect the headers / X-pipe.

As another bonus, I got my tach to work. Details later.

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Before I painted it. All welded and smoothed as good as I could get.

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Test fit with battery in place.
 
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weendoggy

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Still no coolant tank but was told Wed. at the latest. Going to contact exhaust shop today to set appt. for Thurs. Fingers crossed. Now just buttoning up everything getting things in order. A few progress pics and a teaser at the end...

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Strut brace just resting on the cover. I have options. Any thoughts either way??

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Finished/painted reservoir bracket w/countersunk holes to clear nutsert.

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Reservoir bracket installed.

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Under hood clearance. I did lower it from my original design about 1".

Now for a little tease...(needed to move this to YT Shorts due to excessive bandwidth) never thought about that. ;)
 
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white95

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Personally I don’t like the engine cover BUT if you have the hood clearance you should space the bar up. Don’t cut a relief hole in the plastic or it’ll look like an afterthought.
 

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