My '02 GT Coyote Swap

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weendoggy

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Works like a charm with my Holley setup :D
Of course it does because it's Aftermarket stuff. I like my Holley HP setup on my Cobra as well.:cool:

I can live with a wonky tach at that level for the time being. Ford has it's way and if they can FUBAR it, they will. All I know right now is that it runs and I'm headed to the track this weekend and praying that all my work stays working. I have watched the tach readings with my SCT and it goes wonky in that area as well, but the Coyote gives correct and accurate readings.

I'll update next week. But I will say, I owe a lot to you guys for advice, info and just encouragement. I often criticize sites that "talk the talk" but can't/won't deliver. Having been in this business my entire life, my goal is to help, not hinder progress. So, go out and have a beer on me, I'll figure a way to pay for it. :)
 

cobrajeff96

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Might try talking with the PBH guys, they know a thing or two about the latest gen CANBUS. They might be able to help you. I'm pretty sure the gen1 control pack doesn't have a CAN output, but for sure the gen2 does.
 
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weendoggy

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Might try talking with the PBH guys, they know a thing or two about the latest gen CANBUS. They might be able to help you. I'm pretty sure the gen1 control pack doesn't have a CAN output, but for sure the gen2 does.
I've already spoke to them. Yes, they all have CANBUS, but that's not the issue. I do have my tach working, just not smooth in the range mentioned. Again, not a big deal but would like to get it right. I'm also using the PCM out of the "salvage car" but that's not the issue either. It has to do with signal incompatibility between the two different systems. Again, not a deal breaker. This also may be just an issue with the Gen1. I may try the Ground Loop Noise Indicator, but that may not be a 100% fix either. From what I gather so far, you can have it accurate at a lower scale (say 0-6000) or the upper scale. If set lower, it tends to exaggerate the higher readings. i.e. when actual engine is at 7k, the tach may read 7.5k In my case, I use my shift light which I can set to anything I want and the PCM harness has a dedicated tach analog signal wire which I already have working so I watch the light. :D
 

white95

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*opens cold brewski*

Thanks for the beer! :cool: I really admire your perseverance. I took the “easy way out” with the Holley :) As an electrician that plays with turbine controls all day, I’m always eager to follow this type of progress. I just didn’t want to deal with the drive by wire setup. I’ve reached out to a few buddies with similar setups and if they have any actionable intel, I’ll pass it along.

I’m pleased that you’re enjoying your tenure here. This forum had seen a lot of helpful people come and go since 2007 but I’m very happy with the cadre of SN faithful that we have now.
 
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weendoggy

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Last shots of the exhaust from underneath. The entire system is higher than before, which gives me a tad bit more ground clearance. Lowest part is the header connection. I like it a lot. Not the prettiest, but who's looking under there anyway. o_O

exh_xpipe3.jpg
Removed the bell/ball from existing "X" pipe rear and put the slip sleeve there. A lot more stable!

exh_xpipe4.jpg
Side shot on my rack. No more clamps in the way! Picture deceiving, but it's higher than the Full Frame bars.
 
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weendoggy

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Track weekend was great! However, there were some issues:

1. Got nabbed for sound on the first session blowing a 103.5db! Guess third gear at 6500 was too much. :eek: Remedied that by shifting sooner and all good. Looking at either another type of Borla (using the S type now) or going to Dynamax Turbo's.
2. Put two wheels off T2 for the first time in six years! Yep, gotta' get used to the power out.
That was just day one and first two sessions!
3. Had a strange one coming out of the carrousel, which drops about 50ft and has a long left hand slightly off camber at the bottom before the straight to T7, the engine all of the sudden had a drop in power for a few seconds. This was weird, but did it again the next lap in the same place. I had 1/2 tank of fuel, but after coming in after the session, topped it off (9 gal.) and said if it goes away, it's fuel starvation due to fuel going all the way to the right of the tank. It was a fuel starvation problem and that was taken care of. I mirrored the same scenario the next day just to be sure. All well, but now have to figure out how to cure that. Of course, normal driving won't do that. :D

Other than that, this thing is a beast! Damn fun to drive and now can actually start out near the rear and catch driver's that I had to give point-by's to. I didn't even push it that hard doing 5-6k range, but when it opens up, OH MY! My buddy's son (pic below) is a pilot and drives damn good. I attribute a lot of their ground hugging to the wing on the back. He takes corners much smoother than me and has no panhard bar to boot!

Other than the fuel issue the car/engine was flawless! No working on it, no dialing in anything, just park and drive. Good to know I have a good mechanic to take care of things. :cool:

Once I get some footage put together I'll add a post here. Next event is Laguna Seca in October.

gabe_attack-1.jpg
 

cobrajeff96

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Nice.

There are a lot of outfits that make baffled fuel tanks. If you're lucky enough to find one (junkyard, ebay, etc) the factory 03/04 fuel tanks had some of the best baffling systems ever seen in a production car. But even if you can't find one, those aftermarket outfits like Aeromotive, Glenn's Performance, and maybe some others have replicated it and actually made it better.
 
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weendoggy

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Got a few video's from a couple of track days lately. First is Laguna Seca in my Cobra, which was a scheduled event during my Coyote swap, but well needed to get this on track again after a few years in hiatus. Forgot how much fun this car is on track. The second part is the newly installed Coyote (Gen1) in the Mustang at Sonoma Raceway, which is the reason I was pushing to get it ready for that event. Took a day to learn it's new possibilities but in the end a GREAT change for sure. In my case, I can drive both cars about the same so I stay within my boundries. Still looking into a fuel fix this winter and will have the Mustang at Laguna Seca in October for more fun!

 
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weendoggy

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You blew sound at sonoma??? Lol wtf
Yep, at least they said so. Must've been the 3rd gear 7000rpm through T12 (sound area) that caught them. Said I was doing 103.3db. That was with the Borla S Type mufflers and a stock "X" pipe (no cats) and BBK LT's. I just short shifted the rest of the day prior to that. Think it cost me a second overall, but not too bad considering this was the first outing with the Coyote.
 
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Back from the weekend at Laguna Seca with SpeedSF. Good times. Sat. weather was wet for the first couple of hours, then sun in the afternoon. Sun. was dry and sun out about the same time. Lots of very fast cars/drivers. I had a McLaren and several Radical's in my group. wth! Rice rockets galor!!

Had them do a sound check for me on Sunday and blew a whopping 88.6db, which made me happy. Now I feel good about doing 90db days there. Times started in the 1:57 range and I worked down to mid 1:53's, which I'm good with for now. I need to do some pedal work for my feet. They are atrocious at best. Clutch pedal too high so doing mods to fix that and the throttle (with the bracket for the FBW pedal) just brings it out to far for my braking style so that will be addressed this winter. Also, the dreaded fuel starvation under 1/2 tank is there. It was fun the last session as I took a risk to see what would happen there and it showed up several times, T2, T5, T6 and T11. Wow! I'm going to try the Holley Hydramat.

For Frank.JD.Perez, times at Sonoma were in the 2:07 range and for me and first time out with the new setup, very pleased.
 
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Back from the weekend at Laguna Seca with SpeedSF. Good times. Sat. weather was wet for the first couple of hours, then sun in the afternoon. Sun. was dry and sun out about the same time. Lots of very fast cars/drivers. I had a McLaren and several Radical's in my group. wth! Rice rockets galor!!

Had them do a sound check for me on Sunday and blew a whopping 88.6db, which made me happy. Now I feel good about doing 90db days there. Times started in the 1:57 range and I worked down to mid 1:53's, which I'm good with for now. I need to do some pedal work for my feet. They are atrocious at best. Clutch pedal too high so doing mods to fix that and the throttle (with the bracket for the FBW pedal) just brings it out to far for my braking style so that will be addressed this winter. Also, the dreaded fuel starvation under 1/2 tank is there. It was fun the last session as I took a risk to see what would happen there and it showed up several times, T2, T5, T6 and T11. Wow! I'm going to try the Holley Hydramat.

For Frank.JD.Perez, times at Sonoma were in the 2:07 range and for me and first time out with the new setup, very pleased.
Thats how i felt the first time there (86.4 or something) then i swapped my motor and that was out of the question. 103 days only for me. Also the atmosphere and time of day effects the db levels

Not bad for sonoma nor laguna
 
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weendoggy

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On to my next project. Installing a Holley Hydramat to hopefully cure my 1/2 tank or less high "G" corners when on track.

The stock fuel/pump/tank is a convoluted plumbing nightmare, only when you have a return style system I guess. Normal driving does not effect the operation of the car, just being a little over zealous in corners on track. I could always keep it full, but why? I'm going to attempt this and then test it in a few weeks at my first event of the year, so here goes...

The plastic sump shown holds the fuel pump and sender and snaps into the holder, which is fused into the tank bottom. In other words, it holds the pump and is held in place by the "top cover" of the sump. You can see where the top outlet goes to both the pump and by-pass tube. The by-pass just goes back into the tank and also to the inlet side via another "T" shown below. I do need the sump assy. because it holds the fuel sending unit and pump secure.
sump1.JPG

The following is just a shot of the sump and the small flapper inlet to the sump from the tank, which really seems useless. Notice the by-pass & input tube don't go to the top of the sump.
sump2.JPG

This is a side shot of the sump showing the two tubes and the "T" connection between them, that connect to the inlet screen sock as well. All of this can/could get pulled back into the sump. I have also marked with dash lines where I'm going to remove a section of the sump so the Holley Hydramat will be able to go into the tank itself. I'm not going to need the sump per say, as the Hydramat will be the new sump (I hope). I can't just cut up the sump due to it needing to hold the pump and sender, so I have to be surgical about it.
sump3.JPG

This is showing the "T" connection on the top cover that is needed to connect the pump and by-pass, and you can see the two small holes for screws that keep this secure to the pump and "sandwhiches" it from the cover to the sump bottom. I have to make sure the Hydramat and cover tightly keep the pump in place.
sump4.JPG

Now that that's clear as mud, my question is: Why couldn't I just eliminate (basically plug), the by-pass tube? Or, it can stay and just dump back to the tank as well. Both tubes are gusseted to the side so that may be a better way. From the research I've done, the returnless system is regulated by the PCM and FPDM for voltage supplied to the pump and therefore needed some sort of by-pass just in case, which I don't need anymore due to the return style system now. Basically need the setup to hold the pump and Hydramat. If I make a mess, I'll have to fix that too!
 

lwarrior1016

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So, would the t be possible for you to get a fuel hat from fore innovations and remove the basket to make room for the hydramat?


Also, side question, how do you have you fuel pump being triggered? Is that pcm controlled or just coming on with the key?
 

cobrajeff96

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What kind of tow hook is that on the front? I've been shopping around for one (hopefully never to be used).
 
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weendoggy

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So, would the t be possible for you to get a fuel hat from fore innovations and remove the basket to make room for the hydramat?


Also, side question, how do you have you fuel pump being triggered? Is that pcm controlled or just coming on with the key?
Not sure on the fuel hat, unless it can house the pump. The basket sorta sandwiches the pump, but, I can use the hydramat to apply the tension on the bottom of it.

Pump is being triggered by PBH fuse block and doesn't run through the PCM. Key on power baby!
 
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weendoggy

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What kind of tow hook is that on the front? I've been shopping around for one (hopefully never to be used).
That's a custom made one by me. Easy to do, but hard to explain. I'll dig up some info, thought it was on my website...found it here: http://www.weendoggy.com/mustang/mustbody.htm about 1/3 of the way down after the seats. Bought the tow piece off the rainforest and made the rest. I hope not to use mine either. :p
 
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