My 351w Swapped 1995 Mustang GT

evilcw311

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Did you do the sump work on the tank?? Have you considered getting a professionally built tank from somewhere like Glenn’s performance?? It just seems that the problem is actually down in the tank.

Thy gt is so awesome. Only super car I’d ever want.


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Two things 8AN feed AND 6AN return are pretty small. Might consider jumping up to 10AN and 8AN on return side. How are the feed and return lines plumbed into the tank? If incorrect the return line may be causing some aeration of the fuel. The A1000 should be ran with a controller so its not always running at full capacity which may heat up the fuel and pump.
 
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Chris Stephens

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Did you do the sump work on the tank?? Have you considered getting a professionally built tank from somewhere like Glenn’s performance?? It just seems that the problem is actually down in the tank.

I agree with you there. I have considered it...just didn't want to buy a new one. My tank looks pretty close to the Cobra tanks I have seen. Looks professionally done, too, nice welds inside.

Two things 8AN feed AND 6AN return are pretty small. Might consider jumping up to 10AN and 8AN on return side. How are the feed and return lines plumbed into the tank? If incorrect the return line may be causing some aeration of the fuel. The A1000 should be ran with a controller so its not always running at full capacity which may heat up the fuel and pump.

The return is actually larger than 6AN...it's a large 5/8" rubber hose adapted down to a 6an fitting at the tank. It's at the front on the passenger side.

That said, I can't imagine I am anywhere close to the limit of the hose sizing. 8AN ought to be good for 1000hp. Plus, the problem never shows itself in a straight line with foot to the floor. It only sputters coming out of hard corners.

Aeromotive said the same thing about the pump/controller. They also want $350 or something absurd like that for the controller. Which is why I didn't get another A1000 or have mine rebuilt lol. $450 for a replacement pump and another $350 for the controller is a bit nuts at my power level. It's a max 400whp small block.

I dunno. I probably should look into other tank options or even a fuel cell. For now, I'll just keep running 3/4 tank or more to avoid the problem.
 
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Chris Stephens

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Update: I was having an alternator issue that I believe I narrowed down to sheer RPMs. I installed a new alternator to replace one with some internal damage and drove an hour to an AutoCross event. Alternator charged the whole way, no issues. Once I got there, though, I did one AutoCross run and killed it! After doing some math on it, I found that at 7000 RPM, I was running the alternator at about 21,000 RPM.

I installed a smaller crankshaft pulley from a BBK 1554 underdrive pulley set from a gentleman on here. I left the stock water pump and a 2-3/4" alternator pulley on the car. This gives me about a 1:1 crank to water pump ratio and a little less than 2:1 alternator to crank ratio.

We didn't have any charging issues at AutoCross this weekend, but I do think I will install the 2-1/4" alternator pulley. I was seeing around 13.8 volts at idle all weekend.

My suspension plan changed once again. I wasn't planning to buy rear coilovers right now. They end up adding about $300 to the build, and I was already cutting it a bit close in terms of budgeting. But Jack from MM said that I would never be able to get enough spring under the rear with stock location springs paired with front coilovers and the TA/Watts Link. He's the expert, so I deferred to him.

So my final build list for this time around:

FRONT:
MM Gen 3 Race-RA2 Valving (PN MAX-12-MT for the Front and Rear Strut/Shock Kit)
MM Coilover Kit (COP-24)
Hypercoil 2.5"/10"/425 lb/in Springs (HYP42510250)
MM Four Bolt Caster/Camber Plates (MMCC9994)

REAR:
MM Gen 3 Race-RA2 Valving (with Spherical Bearing Lower Shock Eyelet, Small Dustcovers (SERVICE-7))
MM Torque Arm (MMTA-1)
MM Standard Upper Mount Coil-Over Kit (MMCO-22)
Hypercoil 2.25"/9"/275 lb/in Springs (HYP27509225)
MM Lower Shock Mount Kit (MMSM-2)
Fays2 SN95 Watts Link w/11" bars (to clear the MM Torque Arm)

STEERING:
MM Solid Steering Rack Bushings (MMST-7)
MM Solid Steering Shaft (MMST14)

CHASSIS:
Stiffler's Full Length Subframe Connectors (SFC-M01)
Stiffler's Jacking Rails (SR-M01)
Stiffler's Web Bracing (WEB-M01)
SR Performance Front Strut Tower Brace (Will need to be modified to clear the taller 351w)

Oh, and a white Hurst ball shifter just because I like the look! (And because my massive bear paws don't hang on to the tiny stock plastic piece very well, especially when sweating. My cousin has a Hurst knob in his Trans Am and it feels really nice in my hand. We tested it out this past weekend, and it feels pretty good!)

I also installed a manual seat track courtesy of a friend that AutoCrosses with us. The factory electric seat didn't work very well and we move it back and forth a lot with my short cousin codriving.

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Chris Stephens

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So I have done a HORRENDOUS job of keeping this build thread going...my little ADHD brain starts letting things slip, next thing you know, it's been 2 months!

Ok, TOOOONS of changes have happened in the time since I posted here last. I'm gonna try to recreate the timeline here with some older posts from other places.

This first commentary was from the weekend after my last post, more in-depth info about the September AutoX event:

Well, another AutoCross weekend down, another failure to video the entire weekend. I got all my runs from Sunday, but haven’t gotten them up on YouTube yet. I’ll add the link tonight or tomorrow to them. (Here's the link if anyone is interested)

This weekend was really tough. The course was fairly technical, lots of fast transitions needed. Plus, we really hurt the car with the halfway changes we made.

We got the quad shocks out and the Watts Link in Thursday and Friday night. Install was pretty straightforward, but drilling the frame rails was harder than anticipated, probably because of the slow air drill and the old bits we had laying around. The bars Jim sent appear to clear everything just fine. We did not get the Torque Arm installed though.

We got the Stiffler’s full length subframes installed, but not the jacking rails or the cross bracing. My pinch welds are pretty messed up, so we’re gonna have to straighten them a little before those go on.

We also put the new solid steering shaft in. I can’t tell if that made a difference in steering response BUT it wasn’t rubbing the header anymore, so that alone is a big improvement from last month.

The place where I think I messed up was removing one of the upper control arms in the rear. I had read about the Poor Mans 3 Link and thought eliminating some of the binding in the uppers might help. It did not. I think you typically have to raise the rear spring rate a lot when you improve from the 4 link, which I knew, but we didn’t have anything stiffer to put in. So I thought we might put a little understeer into the car….I was wrong. We put a LOT of understeer into the car. The rear end felt a LOT more hooked up, but the front end just sucked. Hard turns we were having to let off a lot to not push around. I never got it just right myself, so I didn’t have any great runs.

We tried adjusting the Watts Link a bit, raising it up hoping to loosen the car, and it made dramatic changes to the feel of the car, but no real improvement in times. I thought it got better, personally. I couldn’t control the car on day one. We lost all of the really good braking we’ve always relied on, so I was locking up wheels and pushing in the turns a lot the first day. Could not get the car to slalom worth a crap. The next morning was a little better, by raising it up one hole, then the afternoon was even more controllable with it up another hole. My slaloming improved greatly on Sunday afternoon. I had a S197 Mustang guy ride with me on a clean run, and he said he thought I was really composed and controlled in both slaloms, a marked change from the previous day. His advice was just to take it faster next time. I did, and it would’ve been a really good run, except I screwed up and entered one really slow spot too fast and the car pushed and took out some cones.

To give you an idea of how bad we made it…one of my friends drives a bone-stock 1995 Cobra, and he beat me by a full 2 seconds.

So, overall, Watts Link definitely made a huge improvement in the rear and the car felt more stable and less prone to sudden oversteer, but running the PM3L was a huge mistake with the 250# Steeda springs still back there. I think it would have been just as bad with the torque arm. After feeling it this weekend, I am reeeeeally hoping the coilover kits make it here soon…

(END OF SEPTEMBER COMMENTS)
 
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Chris Stephens

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(ORIGINALLY WRITTEN IN LATE OCTOBER)

The last points event of the season was last weekend. I had tossed around whether or not to go ahead and put the parts I did have on the car and whether it would make it better or worse. I figured if I put the rear coilovers that I had on without putting the front coilovers on, it might loosen the car waaay up, which might be more desirable than the understeering pig we had driven at the last AutoX. So I put the rear coilovers on and took it for a drive and it was much looser. Jumped kind of hot on the interstate and it felt like the back end was going to come around on it.

Then we decided to put the new coilover struts (MM Race RA-2s) on the front without the new springs, since the front springs and coilover kits still hadn’t made it in yet. I’m glad we swapped the struts though...one of the old Tokico Illuminas had ZERO rebound. Pushed it down and it had very little resistance and never came back up on its own. The passenger side wasn’t quite as bad.

It definitely felt a whole lot better on the test drive, but was still locking up the right front wheel under braking. Will probably need to play with brake bias and improve the rear brakes a little once everything else is done. Taking away the one good aspect of the car (nosediving that gave us super good braking) will probably hurt still, but I figured with actual working front struts and the stiffened rear that loosened the car a bit, it would be better than last event. At least we might be able to get the car to turn in using some throttle.

So the final event rolled around and for the first time in…ever, it felt like we were driving a racecar! Car was much more composed this time around. Marginally faster, but waaaay more composed. Lateral transitions were quicker. Makes me wonder how much better we would’ve done all this season if I’d checked the struts earlier…I really should have. But, live and learn, I guess. The car did have some weird things going on because of the major mismatch in the front and rear. It alternated between tight and loose, depending on the spot on course. There were 4 spots, two lefts and two rights, where the car wanted to push, but you could get it to turn with the throttle when you needed. I did have one run at the end of the morning where I pretty much skated the whole way through. Not a fast time, but I did get a pretty good feel for the looseness of the car on that run. The key to going fast ended up being more throttle everywhere on course. That kept the rear loose and turned better times than trying to stay super composed the entire time.

One thing that is still just as bad as before is braking….it was really bad. A quick brake jab (not a particularly hard one either) locked them up. The same pattern every time, too, right front would lock and pull the car to the right, then the left would grab and it would jerk back to the left.

Final points event videos here.

My cousin’s opinion was that we should leave the 425 coilover springs out and just run the 650lb stock-location springs up front. His thought was that stiffer springs might make the braking worse than it is now. I posted that question in a Facebook group I’m in that’s geared toward AutoX/Road Racing. Obviously it’s my car, but he does have a lot of experience, so I wanted to get advice on how to fix that issue once we got there and whether it would get better or worse once we put the coilovers on. The general consensus was that the stiffer fronts would help the issue, not make it worse. I may still have to play with the brake bias once I have the rest of the car set up the way I plan to long term, but that the locking up issue shouldn't be as bad as it is now.

It's been a fun first year of AutoCrossing and a fairly successful year in general for getting my car setup dialed in. I definitely have improved my driving a lot. And the car should be much better on the track and autocross course than it was before. I got a trailer and a lot of work done on my truck for trailering my car to events.


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(END OF OCTOBER COMMENTARY)
 
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Chris Stephens

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(ORIGINALLY WRITTEN DECEMBER 4TH)

Well, I finally started working back on the car on Black Friday, after taking about a month off to relax a little.

I got the MM caster/camber plates and coilovers installed Friday and Saturday, set an eyeball alignment, then tried to go for a test drive and...

128205269_2925339431122802_5496769068381854944_n-jpg.60270


128686195_2925339437789468_8854268951994337588_n-jpg.60271



...ended up with this.

Looking at how the stock setup works, the stock location springs push down on the control arms with the weight of the car as the tires push back up, pulling the top of the ball joint up. The control arm is "fixed", so that tension helps hold it in place.

Even if the car is jacked up on the control arm, the only weight the ball joint sees that makes it try to come out of the control arm is the weight of the spindle, rotor, wheel, tire, etc. Any aggressive driving would seat the balljoint even more firmly as weight is transferred. The ball joint can't "fall out", even though it could break.

With the coilover setup, putting a jack under the control arm (for example) puts the entire weight of that corner of the car onto the lower ball joint and it's pressed fit.

It appears mine simply happened when I yanked the wheel around, since I never did jack it up. The ball joints have been replaced before, so it's likely just wasn't a perfect fit.

We pulled the control arm off, pressed the one that fell out back in, I cleaned up the grease and grinded the paint away, and we tack welded it in 3 spots. Then we welded the other side in a couple spots as a preventative. I doubt they go anywhere now, but grinding the welds off would allow them to be changed in the future. They're on the list of things to swap eventually anyway.

I drove it last night and then went to get it at lunch today. Feels very planted and reacts really fast to changes in direction. I wouldn't say the ride is any rougher than it was with the Steeda springs and worn out struts. It's really hard to tell too much on the street, but I have noticed I no longer need mid corner or straight line corrections. It feels kind of weird to drive. My Focus needs the rack replaced, so it kind of "drifts" in the wind and bump steers kinda funny, and my truck drives like....well, a 1983 Ford truck lol. Both of those take some minor corrections here and there while driving, and especially going around corners. The Mustang moves instantly when you move the wheel so it's taken some recalibrating there.

I still have some things to do, but I didn't work on the car for over a month there (shame on me).

(END OF DECEMBER 4TH POST)
 
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Chris Stephens

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Here's the videos from the December 6, 2020 "Hangover Event". In most years, there's an awards banquet on Saturday night, people drink, then race the next day. So they call it the "Hangover Event". No banquet this year, obviously, but still had the for-funsies event.

I was telling my friend Jack, one of the guys riding me with me on a couple runs, that I was struggling in the front section with letting off the gas and coasting to the next turn, versus tapping the brake and jumping back on the gas again. My cousin, Mike, was using his left foot to tap the brake and go around some of those elements, and he consistently turns better times. Not sure how much that section is really worth though. I think in my day to day driving I'll start practicing control with the left foot. My cousin just lifts the gas ever so slightly and taps the brake at the same time, that way his foot is perfectly in place to jump back on the gas, without having to find the pedal and time it so carefully.

I also had an issue on Run 6 where the front bolt holding the seat to the track came out. It scared the crap out of me and ruined that run. But I was still able to put it out of my mind and turn some decent runs.

The car as a whole did feel more composed with the majority of the hard parts now installed. We adjusted the Watts Link back down to the neutral position beforehand. We didn't have a lot of front end grip. I might experiment with taking off the front sway bar, since that is what Jack Hidley from Maximum Motorsports predicted would happen anyway. But, the tires look like slightly corded slicks now, it was pretty cold, etc. so it's hard to want to make major changes based on this event. In the afternoon we dropped the pressures down from 32, which was faster on the old setup, to 27 out of the gate (truthfully, our trusty air tank leaked all our air out...no way to air back up since I didn't have the cigarette lighter pump). We had much more grip in the 27-30 range than we did at 34 or 32.

Now I have my work cut out for me in the offseason. Some things I want to get handled over the winter:

-Install the torque arm. Hoping to knock that out this week. Things keep coming up and getting in the way.
-Modify the strut tower brace to fit. Also hoping to have this done this week.

-Pull the engine to:
--Fix oil leaks. It's leaking at the rear of the oil pan and on the harmonic balancer. And maybe at the PCV valve. Basically it leaves a couple nice puddles anywhere you stop it.
--Install the oil dipstick. I don't have a dipstick in the engine currently because the one they sent with the oil pan doesn't clear the headers. When I pull it out, I'm gonna mock up the header and then modify the oil tube as needed to make it fit. Having to drain the oil to check the level is a real PITA, but necessary because of the oil leaks.
--Install the AC delete pulley and remove the compressor. Maybe do some, er...customization (ok, fine, "grinding") to the stock bracketry before painting them up or having them powdercoated. I decided to hold off on the Race Doctor brackets for now, they're nice, but that money is better spent elsewhere, like safety stuff and money for the trip to Circuit of the Americas in April. Polishing/painting/grinding some weight off/etc will be better for now.
--Run the oil gauge and coolant lines through the firewall.
--Clean up all the engine bay wiring and relocate the factory fuse box to behind the fender. The fuel pump and engine ECU are controlled with toggle switches inside the car. So I need to reroute the wiring for those.
--Detail the engine. I kind of rushed the 351w swap, and I'm not very satisfied with how the engine bay looks. I'm a tad embarrassed to pop the hood. Wires everywhere, dirty, oily, etc. Time to clean it up and be proud of popping the hood.
--Install the mechanical gauge cluster. I have a gauge cluster that fits into the factory location, with Equus mech gauges. I just haven't installed it because it's hard to get it in a good location and run all the wiring and things with the engine in the way. So it's a good chance to install that. Finally having an oil pressure gauge will be nice lol.
--Check cam out for excess wear, relash valves, etc.
--Stuff like that

-Weight loss wise:
--Trying to lose some pounds myself. I probably have the biggest impact on the weight of the car.
--Remove any of the smog stuff that's left.
--Remove the ABS block and install proportioning valve.

-Get the fuel line situation resolved. A couple years ago, I switched from EFI to carb. Since I had an Aeromotive A1000 fuel system flowing a ton of fuel, I had to install a much larger return line than the -6AL. I used some rubber hose that's 5/8". It's just running underneath the car right now, which I don't care for. It could be a real mess on track if it rubs something and get's punctured or something.

I want to focus this winter on getting the parts that are just sitting around installed vs buying more/different stuff. And fixing the basic issues like oil leaks and things. We fixed enough of the main issues the car had with the expensive hard parts, so it's time to fix the basic maintenance issues and get all the installs finished.

My cousin, Mike, and I are gonna split the cost of new tires right out of the gate, so we're currently looking at:
Falken Azenis RT615K+ $195.00 4 $780.00
Falken Azenis RT660 $238.82 4 $955.28
Dunlop Direzza ZIII $262.11 4 $1,048.44
Bridgestone Potenza RE71R $276.57 4 $1,106.28
BFGoodrich G Force Rival S 1.5 $329.22 4 $1,316.88

All in 275/35/18. Mike really liked the BFGs on the T/A, but he was more limited on options with the 315s. He also thought the Falkens were really good this season, too. So it'll be a tough decision with some arguing back and forth lol. We did get about 120 runs out of these. The event where we understeered all over the place did the most damage to the fronts. The rears still have tread, the fronts are gone.

The car has really gotten a lot better, and me along with it. In the first half of the season, even after we got the new tires, I was lucky to go a day without spinning out, much less a whole weekend. I haven't spun out the car since probably....August? Before all the new parts, so it was definitely me getting better, but it's gotten even more controllable and composed with the new parts.
 

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Great work and solid progress. I’m looking forward to my own autocross journey next year and will try to keep track as well as you did.
 
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Chris Stephens

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Got the torque arm installed last weekend, but it was raining and, since my tires look like slightly corded slicks in front, it was not the right time for a test drive.

I got to go to Florida last week with my whole adopted family. So I still didn't get to drive it.

Finally drove it last night. It felt...odd. It felt like it had some tail wag, looser than before, even though I was given to understand that the torque arm would tighten the car up a little due to having more rear grip. It's hard to tell, it was pretty cold, the car wasn't running right because the tune needs playing with, and the tires are totally shot. So, here again, won't be making any changes based on the test drive or anything. We do have a Test n Tune event in March, so I'll have a chance to test the car out before the points events start.

Now I'll be turning to some of the changes I can only really do in the off-season. The engine will be coming out New Years Day. We're gonna go ahead and tear it down and check it out.

I listed some of the things I want to do while the engine is out in the previous post.
 

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lol my tune has some learning to do in this colder weather as well. Its raining today or I would take it to the bank to see how much everyone in the drive through next me likes the side exhaust and maybe the cut outs as I leave.
 

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Thank you for posting about your experience autocrossing your Mustang. Seeing how much your car and your autocross skills improved this season will inspire more people to autocross their Mustangs.

I'm looking forward to seeing videos from your events next season.
 
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Chris Stephens

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Thank you for posting about your experience autocrossing your Mustang. Seeing how much your car and your autocross skills improved this season will inspire more people to autocross their Mustangs.

I'm looking forward to seeing videos from your events next season.

Thank YOU for all the great content you create on YouTube and for being willing to give me personalized advice all season. That is invaluable when trying to improve my skills. There's been a lot of times when I've watched a video or you've said something in a message and then I went back later after an event and picked up on extra pieces of advice I had missed the first time. It helps me incorporate it the next time even better.

One thing I'm working on now is my car control technique. I have a bad habit on runs of getting my steering wheel grip off and not being smooth with my inputs as a result because my hands get crossed up and things. I'm forcing myself to be smooth, smooth, smooth in my daily driving now, vs my typical one hand on the wheel or shuffling. Not that I'm not fairly smooth, but it's not as necessary on the interstate.

Shameless plug for @Warhorse Racing for anyone that hasn't seen his channel:
Watch Warhorse Racing on YouTube
 

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I'm always happy to help. It was pretty cool seeing how quickly you were able to implement the tips and find speed out on course.

And thanks for the plug! I'm grateful for every view, comment, like, and subscriber. It feels good to know my videos have helped people.

Pretty much everyone I've instructed at an event or Novice School needed to adjust their steering and seating position. It took me a couple of seasons to feel comfortable keeping both hands on the wheel until my elbows were almost touching.
 
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Welp...this is gonna put a damper on my season. I was using my time off work Thursday to pull the engine to seal some oil leaks and things, as discussed above. We decided it was the perfect time to go ahead and refresh the engine.

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My cousin thought the ring gaps may be a little loose and wanted to go through it. Well, he was right. The ring gaps were .035"ish.

But that was less of a problem than this...

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The beautiful Keith Black hyper must've decided 2020 wasn't the year for him, and cracked under the pressure.

I'm just really glad I pulled this apart on New Years Eve. This would have been a really crappy way to kick off 2021, but it's a fairly fitting way to end 2020.

On the plus side, I spent my New Year's tearing down the engine trying to plan the next steps. When I got home, I started looking at finances. I'm really wanting to buy my first home this year, so I have to be careful what I do. BUT the way my job works, we get a fairly average base pay, and a decently sizeable bonus check once a year. I knew they overtaxed us on the bonus check and then it got fixed the next year, but I did NOT know how much we were overtaxed. Apparently I paid $10,000 into the IRS in 2020, when I should've owed closer to $3500. So my tax return should mostly pay for whatever I want to do next.

I think the next step is a 408 or 427w based on a Dart block. Forged Scat crank, rods, and Wiseco pistons. This has been on my Christmas wishlist for a while, but apparently Santa can't fit it in his sleigh, because it hasn't shown up under the tree yet. I'll be shooting for 10.5-11:1 compression. I'll need to CC my heads next week to find out exactly what I need and then start getting it in the works if I even dream of making it to an AutoCross before April/May. I'm going to keep the heads I have for now, they're aluminum 200cc with 2.02/1.6 valves and I've just found out they have had some bowl work done that looks pretty good.

I think I'll also be converting to solid roller with a kit from Ed Curtis. FTI is a solid name in custom cams, and the kit is pretty convenient since I don't know toooo much about valvetrain tech and things. I may be able to shop around for better deals and lower prices, but AutoCross kicks back off on March 13, so I don't have a ton of time to come up with an alternate plan. We may not even make it until April.

Anyway, long story short, a nail in the coffin that was 2020, but a decent start to my 2021 finding out I have money hanging around out there that may fix the situation.

Hope everyone had safe and happy holidays (and better luck with your engines and other winter projects, of course). Happy New Year to all!
 

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I'm sorry to hear about the engine issues. I guess that explains why it felt down on power at your recent events. There's an opportunity with the engine rebuild to dial the car in even more for autocross. You can tailor the power and the rpm range to work with rear gears that will give you the best acceleration out on course.

I'm excited to see how the engine progresses... and how it performs!
 
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Chris Stephens

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I am planning an engine build after my unfortunate cracked piston in the Mustang.

The current plan is:

-Dart SHP block, 4.125” bore, 9.5” deck height
-Scat Forged Crank, 4.00" Stroke 2.75" Main, internally balanced
-Scat 6.250 H-Beam Rods
-Diamond Forged 2618 Pistons, 1.25” Comp Height (0 deck), 6cc
-AFR 205 Renegade, 72cc chambers
-AFR 8019 Springs (for hydro roller, .650” max lift)
-Morel 5323 Hydro Roller Lifters
-MLS .044” Compressed, 4.125” bore (this lands me at 11:1 comp on the dot)
-Double Roller Timing Set
-FRPP Road Race Oil Pan (has windage tray, baffling, and crank scraper), pickup, gasket
-Melling 10833 High Volume Pump/ARP Driveshaft (planning for an oil cooler down the line)
-Will need to measure for pushrods later, of course
-ARP Head Studs
-Aluminum flywheel and better clutch, FRPP pilot bearing
-Victor Jr Intake
-Holley Sniper 800cfm EFI
-Bullet Custom Cam
-BBK 1-¾” LT Headers, will be 3” pipe back to the rear end, then turned down

Here's my full calculations:
Engine Build Spec.JPG

This will add some weight over the nose, but we are going to try to counteract that by moving the engine back 1". The MM K Member moves the wheels forward 3/4" and the MM control arms add another 3/4". So in total, the engine will end up being 2.5" further rearward than stock. Obviously, that's not a ton of shift, but that also moves the trans/clutch assembly back too. Might as well do whatever we can and want while the engine is out and on hold.

In addition, I've done my best to do the math on the weight of the rotating assembly, etc. Here's what I have come up with:

View attachment 9154

Obviously, it's not possible to get an exact comparison of the weights, and I have ignored things that DO matter, like the addition of hydraulic roller lifters, shorter pushrods, etc etc, but it is nice to see that the approximations of the big things are fairly equal. I am reusing some things like roller rockers off the old engine. With an aluminum flywheel, this engine will be about 10 pounds lighter on rotating weight than the 357 it's replacing.

Speaking of, I found a good deal ($150!!) on CJ Pony Parts for an SFI Certified aluminum flywheel. This should be a helpful addition in autocross. Some people have had iffy experiences with aluminum flywheels, but with a stroked 427" engine, I'm not too worried about torque or power off the line.

I picked up the LMR ABS delete block. So that will be going on this weekend. That takes about 10 pounds off the nose of the car. I am also going to pick up a Wilwood proportioning valve. The front brakes lock up much faster than the rears, probably because of the 13" Brembo setup in front and the 10.5" stock GT in the rear. This problem was exacerbated by stiffening the car up all the way around.

The AC compressor removal will take out another 20 pounds.
The MM K Member will net me another 23 pounds.
The MAF Racing front bumper takes another 14 right off the nose.

So even though the Dart block is about 30 pounds heavier, I'll still be pulling some weight out of the front, not to mention moving the weight around.

Obviously, with the MM K Member and control arms, there will be some other changes. Bumpsteer kit, sway bar relocation, etc.

Once all the hard parts and engine are back in, the plan is to corner balance the car to get the best symmetrical handling we can.

When all of that is said and done, we should have a much better-balanced car than we had before. Not to mention a ton more power at RPMs more suited to autocross. With a 6800 rev limiter, there will still be plenty of range when we do hit the road courses.

I've reached out to both Kuntz and Craft Performance engines here in Arkansas to do the work. Kuntz has been incredibly responsive and answered the questions I had upfront. Even did some math on the engine out of the gate, quoted me two different cranks to match my budget up to my goals, etc. I asked Craft some questions by email and then had to call 3 times over the course of 2 weeks to talk to them. Not as good of a feeling as Kuntz gave me, and being comfortable with the engine builder is something I'm looking for.

The plan is to head down one day next week and get them some money to start building it.
 

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