My engine rebuild thread!

Daryl

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Greetings everyone!

I’m getting a jumpstart on a thread to chronicle my engine rebuild. A lot of you have been helpful, gracious and amazingly patient with my wandering of threads, queries and ideas since I joined this Forum. And I thank you ALL for that. Truly.

So here’s where I’m at so far:
12/2: dropped car off at FTK so they can pull the motor.
12/4: motor and trans pulled. Trailered car home. Drank beer to guise the “gutted” feeling I felt for my car!
12/5:taped off exhaust tips, coil, electrical connectors under hood; sealed exhaust tubes to keep unwanted visitors out for the next 6-8 weeks; pressure washed under hood. Will start checking bushings, etc this afternoon once dry.
 
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Daryl

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Before & after cleaning
 

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Wmac

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Next step is to get it up on jack stands. Order the mm bushing tool, order axle side bushings (either FRPP # M-4050-B or AC Delco # 88912796 (2 of) and get it done.

No dicking around, get this done now.

Stock up on your favorite beer.
 

Wmac

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Lots of time to get those small things done and have e few beer at the same time.

Changed the fuel filter lately? Maybe change the pinion snubber with an mm piece? How about the rack bushing someone mentioned in your other thread?
 

Daryl

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Lots of time to get those small things done and have e few beer at the same time.

Changed the fuel filter lately? Maybe change the pinion snubber with an mm piece? How about the rack bushing someone mentioned in your other thread?
Yes, the fuel filter was one of the first things I did. I’ll look for the pinion snubber on the car. I read MM’s installation instructions. Try to find it after work today. Back by the diff they said
 

Daryl

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Sidebar:
While my car is sitting there, able to do nothing, I got on the ground behind the driver side rear wheel to look for the LRCA and the pinion snubber (which, I understand, is located above the melon).

I noticed there’s about 2” of space inboard of the wheel. The other (small) shock absorber is there, but doesn’t appear that it would interfere with an offset wheel too much. So is this how some of you are fitting 300+ meats on the back? What amount of offset is that?
 

Daryl

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Next step is to get it up on jack stands. Order the mm bushing tool, order axle side bushings (either FRPP # M-4050-B or AC Delco # 88912796 (2 of) and get it done.

No dicking around, get this done now.

Stock up on your favorite beer.
Got 2 cases yesterday!
 

Daryl

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How can you tell if they’re shot and need replacing?0A55723B-A430-48E6-AF5C-7D21BD7906C3.jpeg

That’s the driver side
 

Daryl

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Do not see any. Maybe they don’t need replacement after all
 

Daryl

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Can it be that I only have ONE (rather large) pinion snubber? And it seems awfully close to the melon, but maybe that’s due to the car being on jacks?
0052E8AE-2A30-4C28-ACCC-26D77AFBA37E.jpeg
 

Daryl

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12/8: engine builder picked up my motor from FTK.
 

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12/18: while engine and tranny are separated, FTK installing the correct 23-tooth speedo gear. This BETTER fix my indicated vs actual speed issue! Urggghh!

sidenote: I can’t believe this has been such an issue. You go to the gear calculator. You input the information. It tells you what tooth gear. Install it. Done! Indicated and actual should be pretty bang on. Or close enough to call it quits.
 

Wmac

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And you should have used the formula to calculate the correct drive gear or asked someone here. The "issue" is well known for any sn-95 rear gear change.

Change those bushings yet?
 

Daryl

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And you should have used the formula to calculate the correct drive gear or asked someone here. The "issue" is well known for any sn-95 rear gear change.

Change those bushings yet?
I did! I used the calculator on LMR dot com.
The bushings are actually fine so no need to change.
 

Daryl

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And you should have used the formula to calculate the correct drive gear or asked someone here. The "issue" is well known for any sn-95 rear gear change.

Change those bushings yet?
I did! I used the calculator on LMR dot com!
 

Wmac

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I should have said driven gear above. My mistake.

Formula is: drive gear x gear ratio x tire revolutions per mile/ 1000

So: 8 x 3.55 x 812 (stock tire size) / 1000 = 23.06

All 94/95 T5 and aode trans have 8 tooth drive gear.

The rubber bushings in the UCA's are 25 years old. If you are replacing the lower arms, now is the time to replace the upper axle side bushings. You pics only show the very outer edge of the original bushings. If done now, never have to do it sometime down the road.
If you lived closer, I'd give you a g/d set. And loan the tool also. lol
 

Daryl

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I’ll swing by for a Molson or two. We can knock this project out in a couple of hours, eh? Beauty!

Oh, and for my own confirmation, when the equation asks for revolutions/mile, they’re referencing the REAR tire, right? Reason I ask: my rear tires are not stock size.

Thanks!
 

Daryl

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Wow, close enough! Nitto website says 810 revolutions/mile for my 275/40R17’s.

So, 8x3.55x810=23.004

You’re good you!
 

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