my MPG sucks.

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LaserRed95GT

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I think mpg primarily comes down to driving style. I have gotten 10 mpg city before by boosting everywhere, driving like a moron.

One time I got 22mpg mixed hwy/city by never surpassing 2000rpms. It was really boring so I quit doing that.
I can't exactly keep it under 2000rpms, as great as that sounds, seems the automatic shift points are all above 2000 or near. but yeah, I know what you're saying.
I would take boring for the wallet!
 

Slykin

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I shift at 2500-3000 and I still get 18 in pure city driving. I've never gotten my car under 15mpg even being exceptionally hard on it except for maybe at the track.
 

Cmcarter

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haha bad MPG?!??!?!?! If you getting over 15 you shouldnt really be complaining haha especially if your still going for power. I get 8-12...but im running a 4.56 gear in my 98 cobra :D
 

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haha oh yea but i love em...even cruising its kinda nice haha can keep her between 3rd-5th pretty much at all times minus stops. However when i wanna get up and go, its all with a flick of the heel, and she flat out goes
 

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Looking at this from a gas quality point of view

When I was getting poor MPG it was because...yes...I wasn't putting 93. Started putting 93 shell v-power...problem solved...don't get gas at a place if you see a fuel truck there refueling the tanks (dirt gets stirred up).

Running lucas fuel injector cleaner every 3 months has help out my MPG alot as well.

Oh and there is a difference...I once got gas at some rickety BP when I was near empty...had my ride all messed up... Shell FTW
 
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LaserRed95GT

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haha bad MPG?!??!?!?! If you're getting over 15 you shouldnt really be complaining haha especially if your still going for power. I get 8-12...but im running a 4.56 gear in my 98 cobra :D
On an all stock motor with the amount of tune up/excuses I can make for it and stock gears, I have a right to complain!:p
How much city do you do with those steep gears?? I bet it's not bad on the highway

cats go as cheep as $60.00

i always suggest replacing instead of deleting, but on 94/95s deleting is a simple option.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389/2220120/10002/-1
I forgot to ask, why replace rather than delete? Pro/cons is all:p
I could spare the cash if I want them.
 

CC'S95GT

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technically it's agianst federal law to tamper with the cats whether your state inspects for them or not.
It's not usually enforced which people go the o/r H or X route.
 

MustangChris

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On an all stock motor with the amount of tune up/excuses I can make for it and stock gears, I have a right to complain!:p
How much city do you do with those steep gears?? I bet it's not bad on the highway


I forgot to ask, why replace rather than delete? Pro/cons is all:p
I could spare the cash if I want them.

on 1996+ mustangs there are 2 o2 sensors behind the cats. They will throw codes if you delete the cats. MIL Eliminators send a generic loop of information to the computer (in place of the o2s) which can cause the engine to run rich.

On 1994/1995 the only pros to keeping them are:
-Dont smog up the air we breath.
-Dont have to risk tickets.
-Dont have to mess with your exhaust during emissions year.

cons:
-They cost money.
-Because 94/95s dont have the down-stream o2s, no worry about the check engine light.
-May effect "back pressure" in some way (not an expert on head-loss on air flow through a cat. lol.)

Dyno after dyno test proves they rob little-to-no power. There's no reason to delete them unless they are clogged.
 
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LaserRed95GT

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on 1996+ mustangs there are 2 o2 sensors behind the cats. They will throw codes if you delete the cats. MIL Eliminators send a generic loop of information to the computer (in place of the o2s) which can cause the engine to run rich.

On 1994/1995 the only pros to keeping them are:
-Dont smog up the air we breath.
-Dont have to risk tickets.
-Dont have to mess with your exhaust during emissions year.

cons:
-They cost money.
-Because 94/95s dont have the down-stream o2s, no worry about the check engine light.
-May effect "back pressure" in some way (not an expert on head-loss on air flow through a cat. lol.)

Dyno after dyno test proves they rob little-to-no power. There's no reason to delete them unless they are clogged.
We don't do emissions here in little ole' killeen, Texas. I believe they only do emissions testing in the dallas and houston areas. Though sometimes they'll look at the underneath of the car during state inspection.
It's kind of moral on the smogging up the air, of course I do and don't want to.

I don't know why the no check engine light is considered a con though, seems like that'd be a good thing, lol :p
And I'm sure the back pressure changing isn't going to be for the worse if it were to change (not saying I'll gain anything from it either).
 
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LaserRed95GT

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So one last quick thing before I let this thread die a healthy death!

I was going to change my spark plugs and wires of course, wires are easy. Spark plugs I've never done before (semi-nub) but it seems easy enough. Unscrew the spark plug easy, then screw in the new one with some anti seize.
I have a 'friend' telling me that I should have someone else do it because it's possible (while true) to have a blow out where it pops out and destroys the thread.

Is that really something I should bother with? It sounds really hard to mess up that bad.
 

CC'S95GT

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If you install them and torque them to spec. you won't have one blow out. Be careful you gap them to spec and take care not to drop them.
There is a problem with the 5.4's blowing plugs out. But that's because ford designed the head with onlt 3 threads holding the plug in place in an alumnium head.
 

Slykin

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You shouldn't have any problems with your 5.0... they're pretty sturdy. Just make sure to gap your plugs as CC said.
 
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LaserRed95GT

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Hellooo again! on this thread.
Spark plugs and wires changed, idles like a cat purring!

But mpg are still shoot to shit. I've officially decided to blame it on the cat(s).
Me and a friend revved it up a bit, and I held my hand to the tip of the pipe and specs of metal came out.

What arose my suspension is that I use to get this rattle noise (like 6 months ago) if I would rev it to 5000 or so RPMs, but I didn't anymore. So I thought, maybe the cats are clogged as suggested, afterall, the lack of bad-ass rumbling is gone.

So anyways. This is what is to happen next since I'm still getting at the (honest to god) lowest 12 mpg and highest 14.5 mpg.

Anyone want to toss a quote at me on how much I should expect to pay for the welding on some universals, before I start calling around?



OH! and let me throw some numbers at you to prove it! I filled up on a monday all the way (gas tank being 15.4 gallons), lets assume I put 13 gallons of gas in the tank, to be fair. Well I drove that day since filling up, 10 miles (monday), then roughly 40 miles the next day, then roughly 40 more miles wednesday, then 20 miles on thursday before having to fill up again. That's 110 miles to a full tank of gas. That's a full tank of gas gone in 4 days with 90 percent highway driving on stock gears.

That would mean I'm getting 8 and half mpg, now, I don't want to believe that. So I skew the results for the better and assume I only put 12 gallons in filling up and didn't account for 50 miles some how. Even then, that's still only 13.33 mpg. The idea makes me want to vomit, I spent 100 dollars in gas, in a week.
 

CC'S95GT

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Do you get emission ck's in your state. Do you still have the stock 2.25" exhaust?
If not just get an O/R H or X they're much cheaper.
 

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