my MPG sucks.

[LaserRed95GT]

Do you get emission ck's in your state. Do you still have the stock 2.25" exhaust?
If not just get an O/R H or X they're much cheaper.

Emission testing is only in houston and dallas areas, I fortunately live in semi-rural killeen. Yes it is still the stock 2.25'' exhaust. :/

Occasionally during inspection they visually look at them, though I don't think they're looking for catalytic converters, just to make sure it looks 'alright.'

 

[the5.ohh]

You could have the heatshields from ur cats welded onto an o/r h/x so it looks like you got cats

 

[CC'S95GT]

or pull your mid pipe off and bust out the clogged cats then reinstall.
just use a big pry bar or screwdriver and get to bustin. make sure you get it all or pieces might clog your mufflers.

 

[g36 monkey]

I've done the busting out method, worked quite well

 

[castine917]

let me throw some numbers at you to prove it! I filled up on a monday all the way (gas tank being 15.4 gallons), lets assume I put 13 gallons of gas in the tank, to be fair. Well I drove that day since filling up, 10 miles (monday), then roughly 40 miles the next day, then roughly 40 more miles wednesday, then 20 miles on thursday before having to fill up again. That's 110 miles to a full tank of gas. That's a full tank of gas gone in 4 days with 90 percent highway driving on stock gears.

That would mean I'm getting 8 and half mpg, now, I don't want to believe that. So I skew the results for the better and assume I only put 12 gallons in filling up and didn't account for 50 miles some how. Even then, that's still only 13.33 mpg. The idea makes me want to vomit, I spent 100 dollars in gas, in a week.

I hope you didn't do your math the way I read that. Do it this way. 1. Fill your tank full. 2. Write down your odometer. 3. Reset your trip. 4. Drive. 5.Fill your tank full again. 6. Your odometer difference should match your trip. 7. Take your actual mileage and divide the actual gallons the gas station dial says you put into your tank. 8. Report numbers from that to us.

 

[AaRoN]

You said your cats are clogged?? And you're asking about MPG???

 

[CC'S95GT]

You said your cats are clogged?? And you're asking about MPG???

I think we're all assuming he has clogged cats. everything is pointing that way.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Bad MPG on a 5.0 and the original 1995 exhaust almost guarantees the cats are bad. Unsure why the OP doesn't just replace the exhaust or at least the mid pipe. An O/R pipe is going to be like $100 shipped used on the classifieds here or the corral or wherever. Also takes what an hour to install, just throw the car up on ramps and get to wrenching. If the smog pump pipe is stuck on there which it probably will be just cut it and re-connect with heater hose to the O/R pipe or delete the smog pump.

Or just do it the free way and go blow out the stock pipe. That way he'll still pass the visual.

 

[LaserRed95GT]

The original poster is short on cash constantly due to a very expensive girlfriend and living style, and full time student in high school.

I'm mostly looking at hollowing out right now, especially if it's been effective as said before.
Also, being I just spent 400 dollars on my brakes, and now the starter is going (I suspect) money is tight, like my options.
Anyone want to give me a grand or so to get the exhaust of my dreams?


To the guy who was asking about my math, my odometer broke a long time ago, when I drive my mazda I get measurements of distances that I typically drive. I did the math right, trust me on that. Even if the numbers were all hypothetically coming out to 8 mpg I could lie and say it was only 14 mpg, which is still awful.


One last thing I thought of (which I will contribute to my own stupidity) is that my engine may not be getting hot enough and running slightly rich since I didn't dial up my aftermarket controller to kick on at 190ish degrees, it kicks on at 160, not that engine doesn't warm up, and it's still the stock fan and radiator, but this could defiantly be hurting my gas mileage in conjunction with my cats.


also, what are you talking about aaron? I don't see the problem with the logic in bad mpg and clogged cats??

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Your odometer is broken because your plastic gear broke in the cluster. It's a silly cheap fix and can be done in 30 minutes. Also, expensive girlfriends... yeah... get a new one. Sorry, life wisdom there.

 

[castine917]

The original poster is short on cash constantly due to a very expensive girlfriend and living style, and full time student in high school.

I'm mostly looking at hollowing out right now, especially if it's been effective as said before.
Also, being I just spent 400 dollars on my brakes, and now the starter is going (I suspect) money is tight, like my options.
Anyone want to give me a grand or so to get the exhaust of my dreams?


To the guy who was asking about my math, my odometer broke a long time ago, when I drive my mazda I get measurements of distances that I typically drive. I did the math right, trust me on that. Even if the numbers were all hypothetically coming out to 8 mpg I could lie and say it was only 14 mpg, which is still awful.


One last thing I thought of (which I will contribute to my own stupidity) is that my engine may not be getting hot enough and running slightly rich since I didn't dial up my aftermarket controller to kick on at 190ish degrees, it kicks on at 160, not that engine doesn't warm up, and it's still the stock fan and radiator, but this could defiantly be hurting my gas mileage in conjunction with my cats.


also, what are you talking about aaron? I don't see the problem with the logic in bad mpg and clogged cats??

Hollow out your cats is cheap for testing. Easier than wreaking potentially good parts though, you could also temporarily just remove them and do a short trip before that just to see if they are even clogged.

With out doing the math exactly as I posted your math is faulted. Estimates are just estimates. That is fact. When you can get math correct tell us the real numbers. Until then your problem is not bad mileage. It is bad odometer reading.

Fix temperature to 180 first.

 

[LaserRed95GT]

Your odometer is broken because your plastic gear broke in the cluster. It's a silly cheap fix and can be done in 30 minutes. Also, expensive girlfriends... yeah... get a new one. Sorry, life wisdom there.

I know this, it's like 20-40 dollar fix, and it's not like it's hard to get to, but there's always been things that come before it, that aren't knowing how many miles are on a car with its second engine and a rebuilt tranny.

Hollow out your cats is cheap for testing. Easier than wreaking potentially good parts though, you could also temporarily just remove them and do a short trip before that just to see if they are even clogged.

With out doing the math exactly as I posted your math is faulted. Estimates are just estimates. That is fact. When you can get math correct tell us the real numbers. Until then your problem is not bad mileage. It is bad odometer reading.

Fix temperature to 180 first.

While they can be off, yes, I disagree that all my math is just deemed 'faulty' or off the wall. Yeah they're estimates in a sense, but they come pretty close.

And yes to the temperature. Unfortunately though, this will all have to be postponed for a bit till it runs again, as it began to start having trouble starting and finally gave out.

and yeah 180-190 is where I wantedd to go with it, a little after the t-stat.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

I dunno I was pretty sure my 98 was drinking gas when I got it last year (didn't really care but just assumed by having to re-fill every 3 days if I daily drove it to work) but when I hand calculated the mileage it came out to about 20 MPG with me beating the hell out of it on the way to work 30 miles each way. Not bad at all honestly when my wife's anemic 2.0L CR-V gets like 25mpg and is a turd to drive. I granny drove it for a few days, light throttle, shifting at really low RPMs, 5th gear at 40mph and it bumped up to 21+ MPG. Gotta get a working ODO first.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-17255OG/94-98-Mustang-Odometer-Repair-Gear-Kit

$40 plus shipping. Then again, $40 for a young guy with a gf who may or may not put out the more money he spends... I know what I would have done/did as a teenager lol.

 

[LaserRed95GT]

I dunno I was pretty sure my 98 was drinking gas when I got it last year (didn't really care but just assumed by having to re-fill every 3 days if I daily drove it to work) but when I hand calculated the mileage it came out to about 20 MPG with me beating the hell out of it on the way to work 30 miles each way. Not bad at all honestly when my wife's anemic 2.0L CR-V gets like 25mpg and is a turd to drive. I granny drove it for a few days, light throttle, shifting at really low RPMs, 5th gear at 40mph and it bumped up to 21+ MPG. Gotta get a working ODO first.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-17255OG/94-98-Mustang-Odometer-Repair-Gear-Kit

$40 plus shipping. Then again, $40 for a young guy with a gf who may or may not put out the more money he spends... I know what I would have done/did as a teenager lol.

Somebody who understands me! but it's parked for now.
I'm stuck back in the mazda 6, 4 cylinder with 0 torque. D:

I'll let you guys know what ends up happening.

 

[castine917]

I know this, it's like 20-40 dollar fix, and it's not like it's hard to get to, but there's always been things that come before it, that aren't knowing how many miles are on a car with its second engine and a rebuilt tranny.


While they can be off, yes, I disagree that all my math is just deemed 'faulty' or off the wall. Yeah they're estimates in a sense, but they come pretty close.

And yes to the temperature. Unfortunately though, this will all have to be postponed for a bit till it runs again, as it began to start having trouble starting and finally gave out.

and yeah 180-190 is where I wantedd to go with it, a little after the t-stat.

I'm not trying to be a dick to you but, you should shut up and listen if you want advice that helps. I doubt your math because facts and experience tell me you are wrong. You keep telling me you can't be wrong. People, including myself, have done math your way and then turned around and done it my way just to see how far off estimating is.

Now it seems your first issue is starting it. Do you know why it isn't starting? Turning over slow? Not at all?Turning over good but, just not starting?

Looking at this from a gas quality point of view

When I was getting poor MPG it was because...yes...I wasn't putting 93. Started putting 93 shell v-power...problem solved...don't get gas at a place if you see a fuel truck there refueling the tanks (dirt gets stirred up).

Running lucas fuel injector cleaner every 3 months has help out my MPG alot as well.

Oh and there is a difference...I once got gas at some rickety BP when I was near empty...had my ride all messed up... Shell FTW

Everyone should pay attention to Saints advice. With the fuel blends that many areas of the country are using it is cheaper to run premium. There are still areas running decent blends of lower octane where this doesn't hold true but, little testing with local club has majority running premium now as it holds true here.

 

[LaserRed95GT]

I'm not trying to be a dick to you but, you should shut up and listen if you want advice that helps. I doubt your math because facts and experience tell me you are wrong. You keep telling me you can't be wrong. People, including myself, have done math your way and then turned around and done it my way just to see how far off estimating is.

Now it seems your first issue is starting it. Do you know why it isn't starting? Turning over slow? Not at all?Turning over good but, just not starting?


Everyone should pay attention to Saints advice. With the fuel blends that many areas of the country are using it is cheaper to run premium. There are still areas running decent blends of lower octane where this doesn't hold true but, little testing with local club has majority running premium now as it holds true here.

Fair enough, I didn't say I couldn't be wrong, just don't think I'm far off, but I understand that. Sometimes, it's hard to step back and think you're wrong though.

As far as starting it would basically click once or twice and make that normal 'err' noise, as if it were starting, but it would stop and wouldn't pull more power or anything particular. It wouldn't actually turn over. Sometimes I get it to start by turning the key and holding it, other times I hold the key and produces that click and err noise and then no further noise.
I got it started today and I heard a clicking for the first minute or so upon start up coming from the passenger side rear of the engine bay as well.


To saint's advice, I did take some of it. No, I don't plan to run 93 octane all the time, plenty of people get by with 87 or 89 without 'this' much problem. The 'this' being relative. But yes, I stopped filling up at the HEB budget friendly, and now pay the extra coin at chevron and shell. Though they all, atleast around here, are visually able to be seen (the trucks that bring in the gas).

 

[Photonfanatic]

Don't know if anybody's mentioned this, but how many miles you got on that old motor? Even a well maintained, cared for engine will lose at least some power and fuel mileage once they get high miles. For example, my old 95 GT had 66k on the clock when I got it. The car got about 20 MPG city, and around 22 highway. My current 94 GT is a one owner car and was taken great care of, but it has 170k on the odometer. It gets about 17 city and maybe 18 highway. Wear and tear eats into you gas mileage. Nothing you can do about it really, except just realize the motor is old and replace it. Which most of us here are going to do anyway.

 

[LaserRed95GT]

Don't know if anybody's mentioned this, but how many miles you got on that old motor? Even a well maintained, cared for engine will lose at least some power and fuel mileage once they get high miles. For example, my old 95 GT had 66k on the clock when I got it. The car got about 20 MPG city, and around 22 highway. My current 94 GT is a one owner car and was taken great care of, but it has 170k on the odometer. It gets about 17 city and maybe 18 highway. Wear and tear eats into you gas mileage. Nothing you can do about it really, except just realize the motor is old and replace it. Which most of us here are going to do anyway.

Now that's a good question!

Welll, I honestly couldn't tell you. It's on its second engine, the car use to be my brother's and he thought he could drive it while it was over heating, so the original engine is scrap now.
The second engine, before I knew anything about cars, my mom (a semi-decent parts locator) ordered a 'new' one, but the invoice didn't say how many miles are on the engine we received. Things could've been handled better, but they weren't.

Transmission is rebuilt with less than 6000 miles on it. Body has probably around 170k, I'd guess.

 

[castine917]

Based on your description of the starting I would check battery and starter for good charge and good connections. I might even pull starter and take it to a parts store to have it tested for a bad solenoid. If all of that passed I would check that ignition was signalling correctly.

Based on trans was about 6000 miles ago, I'm questioning about starter and odometer being connected correctly still. It is possible they came loose.


When was engine replaced? In miles or years.

 

[LaserRed95GT]

Based on your description of the starting I would check battery and starter for good charge and good connections. I might even pull starter and take it to a parts store to have it tested for a bad solenoid. If all of that passed I would check that ignition was signalling correctly.

Based on trans was about 6000 miles ago, I'm questioning about starter and odometer being connected correctly still. It is possible they came loose.


When was engine replaced? In miles or years.

I'll take it off/check connections my next day off. Makes sense for the connection to be loose from when they dropped the transmission.

The odometer is just broken, it has been broken since the first original engine and before the transmission rebuild.

So exhausted. But lets hope it's something as simple as the a loose connection or the solenoid.