Needing some assistance with what I feel to be an ignition issue.

DFG_magic

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I have a spare NAPA ignition control module (pip) that has 10k miles on it. PM me if you need it; we can work something out.
 
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Blakonblak94

Blakonblak94

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Ok bought a new coil today, still did it, I ruled out the MAF being the culprit by unplugging it and driving a short distance. It still cut out on the highend. And now its starting to act up around normal driving conditions.
 

HISSIN50

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Blakonblak94 said:
lol it confused me too. Are these symptoms typical of one of those going out?

As noted, in the first reply, it's more likely to be the ignition module or coil. The modules on 94-95's don't fail too often however. Coils can, esp since they get baked on the engine bracket. It doesn't fit a normal PIP failure but ultimately that could be it. Diagnosing a PIP in an instance like this is rather tough, so it's often replaced when other stuff is ruled out.
 
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Blakonblak94

Blakonblak94

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Well tfi cleaned it up some but it's still acting ugly. I suppose I'll pull a valve cover later and see if I can see anything potentially wrong on the head. I figures it it was valvetrain I'd notice it at lower rpms as well but now I'm starting to notice it feels underpowered when trying o accelerate. I'm rather lost with this right now. Just to recap, replaced cap,rotor,coil, and tfi. Car is sluggish and misses starts to miss/lag/stutter around 3500-4000 rpms and only gets worse as it increases. Reminds me of when you hear an import hit rev limiter.
 
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Blakonblak94

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Brand new billet timing chain. Guess I'll replace ignition pickup then continue with the fixing. Thanks guys fr everything so far.
 

HISSIN50

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Blakonblak94 said:
Brand new billet timing chain. Guess I'll replace ignition pickup then continue with the fixing. Thanks guys fr everything so far.

That's the next logical step. Note if the shutter wheel is loose or if the shaft has any run-out in it - both could create issues at higher RPM's.
 

HISSIN50

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Blakonblak94 said:
Why is runout? Like endplay?

They have some endplay normally. Run-out is different - it would be wobble in the shaft as it spins (like a drill bit that is either bent or not chucked squarely, so it wobbles while you're drilling a hole).
 
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Blakonblak94

Blakonblak94

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Ah now I understand. Is it true I should replace tfi and pip together? If this doesn't solve it I'm checking valves. Did a cylinder balance test that rendered no difference. I feel it's the pip due to issues with restarts after the car is warmed up.
 

HISSIN50

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I see no reason to replace the parts together. If you've heard this from fox guys, it's often done just because the TFI was on the dizzy and it's convenient (or a new TFI came with the new dizzy).

Since your engine went together, has it run over 4K RPM decently?
 
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Blakonblak94

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Yes it would easily pull to around 5500 before. It'll wind up like that now but only if I stay below wot. That's another odd part if I let it ease up with like 3/4 throttle it'll do it but other it wont. I'll see if I can post up a video soon. Maybe then it'll be easier to understand.
 

HISSIN50

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You can't datalog can you?

It doesn't sound like an engine issue (to me at least) if you can wind it up at less than WOT. I'm wondering if the PIP really isn't the issue at this point. The only other thing I can think of checking (that's easy) is to ensure the TPS goes to WOT voltage without hiccups.
 
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Blakonblak94

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Checked it the otherday with moms help. Even moved it so it didn't hit the same apt at wot. Still happened.
 

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