OLD FARTS "It never ends"

OLD H2S

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A new day, I am putting No.47 in my garage today for the long winter, it is cold and blowing 40 kts. on the east coast so now now is the time to finally start the tear down, only a year late. When we last left this build in the 2v tech section:

I took the aluminum block into Burtonsville Performance this week because I could not cut the cylinder bores fast enough, they just laughed at me as usual, said I would be cutting till Christmas. When I get in over my head they save me, they said I will be cutting for along time with a Sunnen hone and go through many sets of stones cutting 8 bores +.020" for the new pistons and that it is better to fly cut the block with a boring head which I have but I do not have a big enough machine to mount the block so let the pro do it..

I got a set of JE pistons from ModMax. They are -17 cc dish with valve relief cuts that will come in at 11:1 maybe, we will see, but lower than the 15:1 I was starting at. I am sorry to change the story line on you all and I was hoping to do a crazy high compression engine for fun but I am old and now working full time so I do not have the time to mess with problems. When I pull the NPI motor out of the car it will be a spare so that has some possibilities for fun with BLK54's ideas, stay tuned.

The heads I made up over the last year I will use, see that build in the 2v section. They are 5.4 PI Windsor truck heads ported with bigger valves and seats I opened up 3mm, new guides, Timeserts, decked .070, cc'ing at 35 to 37 so I will have a better CR number when the block comes back and I put plugs in and mock everything together the first time and check for valve clearance issues. I am cutting the block .015" so I will let you know..
The cams are Bullett NPI tow truck cams that are .525 lift and 5 degreese more duration than stock PI cams, I am trying to get as much low end torque as possible without going to FI. I have done 3 blower motors, 1 32 valve Intech and 2 Terminators in a Marauder so I am over FI, but....

I did not think I would be building a Ford Mustang SN95, this was the wifemobile that I got new and it has +200k on it and runs great. It is on it's 4th clutch and it is failing bad. I have road raced it Summit Point WV and if you dig through this site you can find all the other stuff I have done to the car. I had so many parts left over from the Marauder build after 10 years that the Mustang seems like a no brainer. Road racing is hard on the total system with lots of maintenance to stay safe when trying to go triple digit speeds so now I think I will build towards autocrossing.

Lastly, I thank you, the reader for your ideas and comments and caring enough to check on me when I disappear from time to time. This site has a wealth of information to help you and I am here because I am too old to put up with the flame wars I have endured for the last 13 years on other sites.

Thanks to Pete at FTR, Dale at ModMax, and Maximum Motorsports for their help and patients reeling me in when I stray out in left field too far. They are easy to talk to.
 

96blak54

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I enjoy your mad monster machine skill and ideas! So,..please keep it up!

The idea here for me is enjoying the build. Like wise watching others. Im not is a pissing contest nor a bigger wiener battle. Im perfectly content with my ideas and putting them in process. I enjoy everything you post here! Make visiting this site a daily pleasure!
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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I just saw your latest vid..18:1 CR your nuts. I really like the rear turbo option.. I have crazy ideas on that build that seem easy to me...stay tuned.
 

Mustanger

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Old H2S....LOL, I wonder how many know that H2S is a noxious gas, poisonous, & makes your farts smell terrible! It smells like rotten eggs & is known to hang around in clouds around old gentlemen who have nothing to gain by holding it in any longer! Otherwise known as Old Farts.... Does this name describe your personal fragrance?
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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If you hold in a fart it travels up your spine to your brain and this is where shitty ideas come from, which is why women make crappy politicians.
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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I made some shock tower weld in plates to attach a crossbar to and as an anchor for other bars to attach to after the roll bar goes in.
IMG_0645-D.jpg
I removed the polyfoam Ford uses to fill the gaps, some of which are big.
IMG_0644-D.jpg
Here is the base line weld across the top. I will fill in weld later as I add more bars using this as the anchor point. The first bar will go straight across to join the shock towers.
IMG_0646-D.jpg
Where should I run other bars to?
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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A while back I put my Marauder differential and 3.73's in the Mustang. For 15 years the stock gear set was whining but It was the wife's ride and I did not touch it. I have done a dozen diff swaps in different cars so I can work through problems to get them quite. When I put in the 3.73's I knew the diff was old and going to need replacement and now is the time to it. I did not do a super set up when I put them in but they made a nice mark on the teeth and were quite running so I just ran them for the summer. Doing the tear down I found the tooth backlash was at the maximum so this time I want to do a little better job of setting the pinion depth so I hacked up this quickey gauge.
IMG_0681-D.jpg
The pics are lacking but the reason I made this is to get the pinion depth from the centerline of the axels.The diff center line is 4.415, some say 4.420 so I do not know???? Ford at the factory uses the pinion depth method to set up the shims under the pinion bearing and it is easy to look up how under " differential master housing dimension" on the interwebs. The 8.8 rear uses a carrier bearing that is 3.0625 and half of that will give you the centerline of the case to base line off of, so....I made the gauge and did not use a 1.531 rod for the reason I did not want to do all that cutting so I made one up that is exactly 1 inch smaller that was quick to do and just add 1 inch to the measurement. Now you can not see the ends of the gauge but I lathed them down .010 because all pinion gears have a very small .010 step up on the bottom where the shims sit, so the cuts and the little rise cancel each other out and the reading is clean with no hard subtraction.
IMG_0682-D.jpg
This crappy pic is the gauge sitting in the carrier bearing saddles and the hole in the gauge the depth rod for the caliper goes through down to the head of the pinion with a precision flat sitting on top. Sorry it is a mess and hard to describe but look up how Ford set them up at the factory and it has to be quick on an assembly line and no Ford did not use a .030 shim under every pinion.
 

cheebs127

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Nice fabrication skills. I'll be following this thread. You're local to me so maybe I'll see it somewhere at a meet or something when its all done
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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Thank you. Our local meet is every Sunday morning at Dunkin Donuts and Roy Rogers at Rt.28 and 198 in Burtonsville till noon. Lots of high end cars, big money hiding around, cool rat rods and a Moal or 2. Lots of Mustangs that even come out in bad weather so everyone knows
"Them Ford boys just ain't right".
Waldorf, WALDORF?? , keep an eye out down your way for a '69 Roadrunner in B5 blue, steel wheels with dog dish hubcaps, that's one I build from scratch.
Let me know if you want any parts: Brembo brakes, Eibach springs, new pistons, shocks, strong axels etc.
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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Sorry for the delay.. forgot my password, been bugging the Admin and the loose nut was me. When I took out the pinion the front bearing had rust or heat damage on the inner mounting surface and the pics was too fuzzy to post so I put in new pinion bearings and added .007" shim to the .028" shim to bring the depth out .035 total and now the the backlash is perfect, yea.
I got the MM rollbar in and they want you to bolt it in, they say it is stronger than welding and I will comply. I wanted a nice one because the interior will have to go back in for CAM class cars, what a PITA. If I race SOLO I get put in C prepared and when I road race I get put in unlimited because of the V8 and being over 4.5 liters, the compromising is nuts.
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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Thank you. These are new that came in one of the kits along the way. Cutting the deck 10 and the heads 70 have left a lot of slack on the new chains. Will I have to make new plungers?
 
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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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He is a pic of the number 1 piston mounted and it is coming in at -.006 so they cut .010 off the deck. This makes my CR come in at 10.85
IMG_0692-D.jpg
 

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