You have the right idea. Tape it up, wire wheel it, wipe it down good then paint.
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So just plug them and I'll be fine?Probably newer heads from a crown Vic? I think they added a cyl head temp sensor as a backup in later years
Advice for the long tubes is, good luck. Ive only done one set of long tubes with a factory k member and I bolted them to the engine before putting it in the car. Maybe you can set the header down there before you put the heads in? I dont know how accessible the bolts will be though. What kind of headers did you go with?
Now Im wondering if you can bolt the header to the head and set them down there at the same time?
That's pretty much what I was planning to try - test fit everything first, but wanted to see if anyone had done it. I'm pretty sure I have to disconnect the steering shaft for it, and possibly remove the starter, but I'm not 100% on that last one. Trying to figure out if the stock steering shaft will even work. I've read that I may need to get the MM steering shaft to have enough room. I might do it anyways, since I've read that the stock steering shaft sucks, and gets worse with long tubes due to the heat.Looks to be all sorts of room right there. Maybe bolting them to the heads first will work.....
That's pretty much what I was planning to try - test fit everything first, but wanted to see if anyone had done it. I'm pretty sure I have to disconnect the steering shaft for it, and possibly remove the starter, but I'm not 100% on that last one. Trying to figure out if the stock steering shaft will even work. I've read that I may need to get the MM steering shaft to have enough room. I might do it anyways, since I've read that the stock steering shaft sucks, and gets worse with long tubes due to the heat.
Forgot to add - I bought Pacesetter headers. BBK, et al were a bit out of budget, and I'd read decent things about the Pacesetters. Just need to strip that black paint they use and coat them. A tubular k member is in the future, so at worst, I guess I can reinstall the factory exhaust manifolds and wait on the k-member, but I'd rather not.
That's the plan, but figured I'd check to make sure I wasn't trying to reinvent the wheel. Thanks!Why not give it a shot? Ive not done it this way but I really dont see why you cant. You will definitely need to remove the steering shaft and I would say yes to pulling the starter. You wont know if the steering shaft hits until you get it all installed.
So I just read your thread (http://www.sn95forums.com/showthread.php?72717-NPI-amp-PI-cam-specs&highlight=cam+specs) on the cams, and it was way above my head, but given all the different "OEM" options out there, am I still better off going with PI cams in these heads, or would one of the others you measured give a better powerband?Long as they are dead holes, meaning not going into any gallery, you should be fine.
Apparently, in my car, it isn't going to happen. Just can't get the headers to fit in there. However, upon closer inspection, it looks like the motor mounts are shot, so I wonder if that's caused the motor to settle, so I have less clearance. Either way, I need new motor mounts. Any reason to NOT get solid mounts for a track only car? I'm thinking also, when I jack the motor up to replace the mounts, I can slip the headers in at the same time.FWIW, I spoke with a guy that removed the head in his Cobra with the long tube header attached. He put it back the same way.
Yup, that's the plan now, lol. Project car motto: "There's always something else"Put a jack under the engine! But heck yea on the solid mounts!
oem or aftermarket? cause my prothane polyurethane trans mount is the reason for me figuring out my rear control arm bushings are out lol.And is it just me, or does no one make a transmission mount for my car?
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