PLEASE HELP!!! No power after PI intake swap

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laramik

laramik

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have you tried unplugging the spark plugs as well as the injectors? Stumbling while disconnecting the injectors tells me it has fuel but we still do not know if your missing spark on one or two cylinders.
I didn't do that because the plugs are all new. I can do that to all with the exception of cylinders 3 and 4 because they're under where the air intake is so I can't get to then without that removed. I did however listen to each one with a stethoscope and they all sound like they are firing.. I can also swing by HF and buy a fuel pressure tester as well. As it stands it's getting re-assembled with the new FRPP PI intake today cuz I needed new gaskets since the old ones had rtv on them which wouldn't come off without destroying the gasket. So earliest I'll be able to start it is tomorrow once the rtv has cured.

Could any of this be because I used brake cleaner on the throttle body? And what would've caused the fuel pressure to get messed up? Just removing the lines can mess up the fuel pressure regulator?

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Silver95bird

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I'm almost convinced there might be a leak around the manifold gaskets. The fel pro ones aren't nearly as thick a seal as the OEM ones. That means the surfaces have to be even more perfect before building.

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laramik

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I'm almost convinced there might be a leak around the manifold gaskets. The fel pro ones aren't nearly as thick a seal as the OEM ones. That means the surfaces have to be even more perfect before building.

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I feel ya and thought the same. But, then why would it be doing it both with the stock and also the FRPP intake. Separate gaskets and exact same behavior. Plus I'm pulling perfect vacuum of 20 from back of the throttle body so I'd imagine if there was a leak around the gasket that I'd be seeing less. Also when I smoke it I'm getting no signs of a leak.

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evilcw311

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Why did you use brake cleaner on the throttle body instead of carb/tb cleaner????


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laramik

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Why did you use brake cleaner on the throttle body instead of carb/tb cleaner????


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Because their chemical compositions are nearly identical. It was AutoZone non chlorinated. Only difference between MSDS on that vs crc throttle body cleaner is brake cleaner has more toulene and doesn't contain naptha nor any oils. Like I said, it was just a few quick sprays anyway.

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I didn't do that because the plugs are all new. I can do that to all with the exception of cylinders 3 and 4 because they're under where the air intake is so I can't get to then without that removed. I did however listen to each one with a stethoscope and they all sound like they are firing.. I can also swing by HF and buy a fuel pressure tester as well. As it stands it's getting re-assembled with the new FRPP PI intake today cuz I needed new gaskets since the old ones had rtv on them which wouldn't come off without destroying the gasket. So earliest I'll be able to start it is tomorrow once the rtv has cured.

Could any of this be because I used brake cleaner on the throttle body? And what would've caused the fuel pressure to get messed up? Just removing the lines can mess up the fuel pressure regulator?

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You listened with a stethescope to hear the spark plugs fire? Is this an old way to do things or a really new one that I just have never heard of? I would think that the stethescope would be hearing everything from the injector actuating to the cylinders moving but hearing a plug fire is not something I think it can do. Just because the plugs are new doesn't mean that the coil firing them, or the wire going to them isn't bad somehow. Disconnecting the plug wires will tell us if one of them is not firing, so would a test light.
 
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laramik

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You listened with a stethescope to hear the spark plugs fire? Is this an old way to do things or a really new one that I just have never heard of? I would think that the stethescope would be hearing everything from the injector actuating to the cylinders moving but hearing a plug fire is not something I think it can do. Just because the plugs are new doesn't mean that the coil firing them, or the wire going to them isn't bad somehow. Disconnecting the plug wires will tell us if one of them is not firing, so would a test light.
I could hear the click on them and sounded like firing. I did just test the wires individually just now. All seem good and measure out with good resistance. I'll check each with it running now as well and report the results.

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ttocs

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if you hear a click or a slight pop from a plug wire its a very good sign of a bad wire or connection. I don't mean with a stethescope I mean from 4-5 ft away.
 

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Go and handle the plug wires while the engine is running. If it's missing you'll know. Ask me how I know. Lol

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laramik

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Go and handle the plug wires while the engine is running. If it's missing you'll know. Ask me how I know. Lol

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Handle? As in remove one at a time? Correct?

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laramik

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Plug wire number 4 one all the way back toward the firewall on pass side is making a loud ticking perfectly in sync with the stumbling. Can't verify for sure cuz it's the only one I can't remove while running since it's buried under the fuel rail.

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Silver95bird

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If it's missing, you won't need to unplug it. It'll stand your hair up just the way it is.

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Silver95bird

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#4 is by the heater outlet. Make sure that well/plug/boot are all dry!

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laramik

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If it's missing, you won't need to unplug it. It'll stand your hair up just the way it is.

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Not sure what you mean? As in shock me?

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laramik

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Yes, that's what you meant...lol..

Ok so on wire #8 when I pull the boot and lay it by the block it's not even arcing from boot to block unless I squish it up to the block pretty hard. It also makes no difference that I can decipher as far as how the car runs. Also on plug 4 when I pull it, the spark pattern is irregular like when it is idling rough.

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laramik

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All other plugs are arcing hard strong lines of spark to the block and all seem to affect the way it runs with exception of plug 8. I ordered new wires now and can get them this evening after 5. I have a union meeting tonight so after that I'll throw on the wires and see what difference it makes. Hopefully this is everything I need to make it all work well.

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The clicking like I said is a dead give away for a bad wire. Sometimes if you do it at night you can see it arching and like he said it will shock the piss out of you if you get it right.

There should be no arching from any part of the cable to the block no matter how hard you squish it.. There is one conductor inside that thick wire in the very middle and then ground is to through the plug to the chassis. If you want to check for spark plug the spark plug into the cable and then ground the plug chassis to see if it has spark.

Try swapping cables if you can to see if the noise/problem moves or go get a new set and see if it goes away.
 
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evilcw311

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This would cause the same issue as what I had when that spark plug had a crack in the porcelain. Once it arcs against the black it causes it to fall on its face.

Union meetings..........I don’t miss those at all. But we won’t go down that road right now. Unions are right up there with religion and politics.


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laramik

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O......M...........F.........G.......


it was the wires.......replaced them and it's running like a top.......


I can't thank everyone here enough!!!! I absolutely would never have went that direction if it weren't for you all. Thank you everyone so much. Now just need to take off the old intake and start over lol....I'm an idiot lol.

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