Project-97

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Good to see some progress! Question, what was that big pvc pipe in the front end?
Lol, I was actually wondering when someone was going to ask about it. I don't have a true cold air, I have the K&N ram air tube w/ a 6" in diameter K&N filter and it came with a cervinis ram air hood (a true ram air), it has vents that dumps on top of the Filter. I don't have the hood anymore, so I made a homemade ram tube. Does it work? Hell yes it does, it works so good that you have to tune the filter length to the opening of the tube, because going down the highway it can kill the engine if you press in the clutch. I will have to get some pics to show everyone tomorrow. It works forcing air in the engine, it works great from about 40mph +, you feel the car like it. Ive checked the plugs after I made it, clean beautiful tanish Brown plugs. This was the hood. I also made a shield to funnel the air in the filter. I will get pics tomorrow for everyone.Dsc00767.jpg
 

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It's chilly out today, so I'm not going to be rolling around on the concrete toady. I did go up to harbor frieght though, they didn't have the bigger style 4 point engine stand, but I did come out with a new low profile Pittsburgh 3 ton jack. This is a must since I will be lower the center kf gravity of the car.20200430_115336.jpg
 

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It's chilly out today, so I'm not going to be rolling around on the concrete toady. I did go up to harbor frieght though, they didn't have the bigger style 4 point engine stand, but I did come out with a new low profile Pittsburgh 3 ton jack. This is a must since I will be lower the center kf gravity of the car.View attachment 3974
Nice addition, Im going to be picking up a new jack and engine stand here soon
 

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I finally got a low profile jack last year but with my karma there was no way it was gonna be from harbor freight. Yea I know everyone with one will chime in now but I would end up being that example of why not to buy a HF jack.
 

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I finally got a low profile jack last year but with my karma there was no way it was gonna be from harbor freight. Yea I know everyone with one will chime in now but I would end up being that example of why not to buy a HF jack.
I have 12" block under the wheels always when I'm under it.
 

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I was talking to one of the workers, and they said people bring in their jacks and return them before a year of their purchase date is out, when they purchased the year replacement plan. It's worth it to me.
 

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Ive been taking things slow so I dont get burned out quick, but the starter, clutch cable off and the engine is now free from the trans. Ive been working on the bike changing the oil too.20200501_180655.jpg 20200501_180803.jpg
 

ttocs

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I have 12" block under the wheels always when I'm under it.

well of course its never recommended to work under any car supported only by a floor jack. I would say doing it with a pittsburgh brand would be 2x as unrecommended.

I was talking to one of the workers, and they said people bring in their jacks and return them before a year of their purchase date is out, when they purchased the year replacement plan. It's worth it to me.

Well yea that is a great idea as then you have 2 years to not worry about any problems at all huh? I mean if it breaks they replace it! But what about after that? I generally buy my tools with the idea that I want them to last longer than 2 years.
 

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It's what us poor folk have to buy lol I definitely see where your coming from. I'm that way on car parts though.
 

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I thought this was neat to show everyone. This is a remanufactured engine tag from the engine builder. It shows engine type, and manufacturing date, and serial #. It's located on the driver side of the block, near the back of the engine webbing. 20200501_181611.jpg
 

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Made a small strides today. Took water pump off, tranny fluid drained, took down the driveshaft, got the power steering tied up, and engine hoist is now attached. Spent time organizing all the bolts. Slow and easy!15884519623823906145980353278595.jpg
 

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Good riddance to this thing! BBK ent me a cobra Xpipe, so instead of moving the 02's, I cut holes in the crossmember, it worked flawlessly! Was a pain though, sometimes you have to make due with what tools you have at the time, and made plenty of room for articulating of everything together. 20200503_122115.jpg 15885231846542252839482414219443.jpg
 

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Playing around in the garage again today. Ive been doing some thinking, so I slapped my cams in my NPI engine w/ 0 lash just to see how the springs/seal/guide look. A good look for the NPI guys also, because we are told about .540" lift is it, but these are .556" lift. Check out the camshaft girdle bearings!:D
 

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Were they in the camshaft journals or you gonna use them to make clearance?
They was installed by the engine builder when they line bored the heads. The engine is remanufactured by a company called ATK engines, they make stock remanufactured and high performance remanufactured engines. Look through my build post and you will run into a picture of an engine tag that looks chrome, it has the letters "DFAT" on it. You can look them up on Jegs website by ATK remanufactured 2v 4.6L DFAT engine code. It's supposed to be +.020" pistons, and I'm sure it is, but I'm going to check, my heads are decked .010", and a 3 angle VJ. My NPI car actually ran good for what it was. Shocked some people, me for one:eek::)
 

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I was thinking of sticking my MHS cams (.556" lift) in my NPI heads since the engine only has around 50K miles. So Using a +.060" retainer will give extra room for this so coil bind will not take place with a higher lift cam, but I have since learned that retainer to valve seal clearance is .560" to .570". Seal to retainer clearance will never change unless I make modifications to me heads. So toss that idea:confused:. Okay, now back to the original plan with PI heads. I had to take my '05 4.6L off the engine stand, and put it onto my roll around angle iron frame, so I could get my NPI on the stand. First I had to take the pressure plate/disk/flywheel, and I was surprised at how good the clutch looked so its going back on when everything goes back in the car.IMG_20200507_172557_02.jpg 20200507_191341.jpg 20200507_183644.jpg 20200507_200714.jpg 20200507_200721.jpg 20200507_191402.jpg Took the timing cover off to see how everything looked and all is well. I wanted to take the heads off because I'm told it's .020 over slugs, but who knows for sure. My heads were line bored so id say it's true. Zoom in on the oil pump, where's it made at....Murica!
 

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Getting closer to the cylinder head/ cam installation!:) Lets do it! Yesterday I went ahead and ordered my cam degree kit from Modular Heads Shop to fine tune those puppies in between a 106-108 ICL, MHS cam card installs at 110 ICL, but I figured I would get a good mid-range bump in HP/TQ from advancing them a tad without hurting the overall rpm range. All new lash adjusters will be installed with everything so I said lets order the Cobra 4v High volume oil pump for extra oiling security. Plus learning a couple of little tricks along the way thanks to good people, much appreciated! Cant go wrong there. Plus that gives me a chance to help a friend out and give him the oil pump thats on my engine now. Some parts I get may be average for some, but for me, I feel blessed with what I'm able to buy, and great information I'm able to obtain by taking the time to learn properly from ones thats do e it before. I like the big 18" wheel MHS gives in their kit, I feel it would be more accurate in those .5* situations. Most only give a 9 to 12" wheel. Even comes with a crank socket lol:D. Thats it for now, just waiting out the weather once again, raining now, and work was delayed a week, so it's sit here and strategize the build.F145583597.jpgF145583446.jpg
 

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When we degreed my cams we couldnt find the arbor for the degree wheel, so we used a acorn lug nut and tightened it down. Worked great.
 

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