ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*

[wmfateam]

You fall under non production/tube chassis and take the NON Production Vehicle -0.4 because you have a Tubular K-Member. I had the national director clear that one up because some of these rules are kinda grey. Which means you disregard any aero modification factor.

 

[ReplicaR]

Man, this is getting ridiculous. Whatever, I'll detune 10 hp. It's not going to change anything at all.

Here is my calculation so far:

Weight: 3300
Power: 340
Non Production Vehicle Modification Factors: -0.4
TT3 only - OEM Aero: +0.40
DOT-approved Tire Width 250 to 275: +0.30

Total: 10.106 = TT3

 

[wmfateam]

Man, this is getting ridiculous. Whatever, I'll detune 10 hp. It's not going to change anything at all.

Here is my calculation so far:

Weight: 3300
Power: 340
Non Production Vehicle Modification Factors: -0.4
TT3 only - OEM Aero: +0.40
DOT-approved Tire Width 250 to 275: +0.30

Total: 10.106 = TT3

Because you non production, you do not take the TT3 OEM Aero +0.4
I have spent much time dealing with the TT3 shenanagins, then decided to go Coyote and ST2/TT2.

 

[ReplicaR]

Really? What a load of crap. Now I remember why I didn't want to do this. I wanted to build the car the way I wanted to, and not be restricted by stupid class rules. I'm going to get these rules clarified, and if in fact you are right, then I'll just run track day for the fun of it, and **** NASA with their yearly memberships, and limited track time.

 

[g36 monkey]

That's how I feel. Build the car the way I want and just have fun on track days, not there to compete necessarily. But I know, everybody has their thing lol

 

[voodoo96]

Really? What a load of crap. Now I remember why I didn't want to do this. I wanted to build the car the way I wanted to, and not be restricted by stupid class rules. I'm going to get these rules clarified, and if in fact you are right, then I'll just run track day for the fun of it, and **** NASA with their yearly memberships, and limited track time.

which is why you should normally build a multi class car, if you like auto x then you can do the scca cam series. I hate NASA's nit picking of the rules to, and I would like to know why TT3 changed from a 9 to 1 power to weight to a 10 to 1? its a big step for most car to try and go to TT2 then because that is a lot of power to find or in some cases a lot of weight to lose.

 

[B.mad]

SCCA CAM is pretty open to things. Only thing is that you will need to run a "finished" interior, keep the spoiler at 8" and run no splitter. Everything else seems to be open. No restrictions on power, engine, suspension etc. There is also Global Time Attack, which i am sure you want nothing to do with. Also Redline Time Attack. Check out the rules for that. Lots of fast cars in Redline.

 

[wmfateam]

which is why you should normally build a multi class car, if you like auto x then you can do the scca cam series. I hate NASA's nit picking of the rules to, and I would like to know why TT3 changed from a 9 to 1 power to weight to a 10 to 1? its a big step for most car to try and go to TT2 then because that is a lot of power to find or in some cases a lot of weight to lose.

They increased the difference because people were jumping from class to class just to win stuff and people who were always in just over class were getting agitated. But that was just the bickering that I heard, no actual confirmation.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[ReplicaR]

Either way, I think I will try to get clarification on these rules, maybe I can argue some of them in my favor. If not, and they don't allow me to have OEM Aero points, that just gives me an excuse to run a shitload of aero, and get really serious. It would be nice if my car fell into the rules as is, but it's not the end of the world if it doesn't. The whole reason why I wanted to do TT3 is because it would be the most attainable in near future. If I have to jump through a bunch of hoops, I might as well be running a less restrictive TT2.

 

[wmfateam]

I have emailed the national director several times about spherical bushings, IRS, engine blocks, etc. Mustangs in general are not the easiest to make competitive with the set of rules we have to deal with. At least in my area where TTB and TTC has the regional champion.

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[voodoo96]

I have emailed the national director several times about spherical bushings, IRS, engine blocks, etc. Mustangs in general are not the easiest to make competitive with the set of rules we have to deal with. At least in my area where TTB and TTC has the regional champion.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

No they are not. I remember Terry Fair saying to make his S197 car competitive in TT2 was just to much of a hassle and it would still struggle even if he met the criteria because that is where the vette's normally run.

I would either detune the car for TT3 or find some class where the car will be competitive without having to demod the car. There is always AI...

 

[ReplicaR]

AI would require completing the cage, and financially TT is a lot more attainable than AI.

 

[voodoo96]

AI would require completing the cage, and financially TT is a lot more attainable than AI.

I know I was just saying there is always that.

have you considered adding a little weight back to the car to balance out the power to weight with the penalties? aren't you allowed something like 250lbs of ballast for TT3? If so have you already factored that in? Your car isn't to far beyond what is legal so you could do a few things to offset the non production penalty and still keep your parts as well and use the aero. If you end up going after the TT2 class you might as well go for AI since the cost will probably be the same, with the exception that now you will be doing wheel to wheel action instead of just racing the clock..

 

[ReplicaR]

I'd rather detune, because adding weight will affect both handling and speed, where as detuning the motor will only affect power.

 

[voodoo96]

I was just putting it out there so that you are aware, but if you do add weight you can put it where you want it and where it would be most beneficial.

 

[ReplicaR]

I'm aware that I can put ballasts wherever I want to, however I do not believe that adding weight is a good philosophy. I'd rather stay at my current weight, and just lose 20 rwhp. The alternative to that would be to gain 175 lbs, I think you'll feel that a lot more everywhere.

 

[ReplicaR]

Update: So I ran the autoX event about two weeks ago, just to see how the new changes have affected it. I am very happy to report that all of the upgrades are working rather well. The Ron Davis radiator has been keeping the car nice and cool, weight reduction could be felt in every aspect of the car, since it was both faster and handled better. Finally, the biggest difference came from the differential upgrade. Understeer, what was left of it is completely gone. I am finally at the point where I can drive the car with throttle, get on the power earlier, and stay on it hard, even though the back may be sliding a bit. Torsen T2R definitely feels much better to me than the Ford Trak-Lok with FRPP clutches. Next up on the list of things to do are the following items:

1. Corner balance the car: Feels like the balance is off. Whenever I break the rear loose, it always pitches me in one direction, so I'm pretty sure there is some corner balance issues, one wheel having more traction than the other for sure. I will also check the axle location, make sure that panhard rod is adjusted correctly.

2. Comfort: I will install aluminum floor plates in the footwell of the car, to make the floor more even, and just a nicer place to be. I will also do something about the pedals, because they are very slippery, and do not inspire a lot of confidence while braking hard.

3. Overflow Bottle for Power Steering Pump: I have sealed the power steering cap, and tapped it with a long line and a breather. No issues so far, but I want to add a larger reservoir above the cap, so I can control the level from there.

 

[g36 monkey]

Definitely some neat ideas. Glad to hear it's doing so well man!

 

[hottwheels04]

Small update: Had the car on the scale yesterday. Looks like the latest round of weight reduction was a pretty successful one, totaling at 160 lbs lost. The following items have made this possible.

1. Removal of side skirts
2. Removal of factory seat belts
3. Removal of airbags
4. Replacement of stock steering wheel with Sparco
5. Replacement of reclining driver seat with non reclining
6. Removal of sound deadening material.
7. Removal of all speakers and rear amps, except for tweeters
8. Removal of carpeting and floor mats
9. Removal of headliner, dome light and passenger sun visor
10. Removal of door panels, center console, a pillar moldings, and rocker sill moldings.

After all of this, the car sits at 3140 lbs on the scale with full tank. I am coming up with more ways to lose weight on the car. Stay tuned. The goal is to lose another 140 lbs to make it 3000 lbs even.

that seems heavy for all that weight removed? car and driver has the curb weight of a 94-95 gt as 3,280 bone stock, even a heavy convertible and cobras with largers 17 inch rims bigger brakes fully loaded / leather seats was rated 3,300-3400lbs tops.

 

[hottwheels04]

A bit of a small update. Took the car to dyno shop to make sure that the tune can be cleaned up a bit around the idle. They took care of that, and got to do some dyno pulls. At the end the car made 364 rwhp and 364 rwtq, which is a like 4 rwhp better than last time around (AC and Smog pump removed). My favorite part of the dyno is seeing how well balanced the motor is. I get 300 rwtq at 2000 rpm, peak power is at 5700 rpm, and power is pretty much flat from 5000 to 6700. And the car sounds awesome.

[video=youtube;8gnftnpwo7U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gnftnpwo7U[/video]

whats done to your motor? 331? what heads cam etc?