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9838stang
Well-Known Member
I have bi xenon HIDs now. So I am going to reuse my ballasts and harness with the projectors
Retrofit projectors
- Thread starter 9838stang
- Start date
Win
Legend
I paid 80 bucks for my Morimoto Mini 6.0 H1 with shroud from TRS... And these aren't there bargain ones these are there nice ones.. They only go 90 bucks on there website.
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
i saved 5 whole bucks on them and i also got the bulbs way cheaper too. if the bulbs fail no big deal i just want to see how it all looks. when done
Win
Legend
I like getting the bulbs from a reputable source. I tried the whole thing of getting them cheaper and kept having issues. So Jo more of that crazy mumbo jumbo for me.
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
So after realizing that i never finished showing you all my journey down this retrofit route. I ended up finishing though last febuary completely. But Here is where i left off.
After the projectors had arrive, i checked them with a spare wire harness i had laying around, as a back up harness, to see if all of the connectors would work.
Picture of the projector and bulb connectors
What came in:
Time to get busy, I pull the headlights out:
Well i cannot find any pictures of my placing the headlight into the oven or taking them apart so i will try to make due.
I took each headlight separately, and placed them into a preheated oven at 225-250 for 20minutes. That wasnt warm enough so i brought it up to 275 for 15 mintues. When it got warm and was in the oven for the time i ended up prying the lens away from the bucket. I had to do this process 3 times per headlight
Well i did a quick test fit of the headlights:
Luckily these lights have enough space where i just could run the projector wiring through the original light socket. So no drilling
I tried some colored leds and i didnt like it...
resealed the light and tighten up everything and test fit them
I got a new Nikon d3100 and started learning on how to use it. No more cellphone pictures
After the projectors had arrive, i checked them with a spare wire harness i had laying around, as a back up harness, to see if all of the connectors would work.
Picture of the projector and bulb connectors
What came in:
Time to get busy, I pull the headlights out:
Well i cannot find any pictures of my placing the headlight into the oven or taking them apart so i will try to make due.
I took each headlight separately, and placed them into a preheated oven at 225-250 for 20minutes. That wasnt warm enough so i brought it up to 275 for 15 mintues. When it got warm and was in the oven for the time i ended up prying the lens away from the bucket. I had to do this process 3 times per headlight
Well i did a quick test fit of the headlights:
Luckily these lights have enough space where i just could run the projector wiring through the original light socket. So no drilling
I tried some colored leds and i didnt like it...
resealed the light and tighten up everything and test fit them
I got a new Nikon d3100 and started learning on how to use it. No more cellphone pictures
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
Well I didnt like how Chrome and shiny the headlights look compared to the corner lights. So i pulled them back out and pulled them apart.
I got my idea from [MENTION=8860]Win[/MENTION]. He painted the inside of his cobra headlights and i tried to copy him. I have a different headlight so i didnt completely copy him
Before
After
BUG EYE!
I went this route to help match the corner lights. At the same time, I accidentally gave the headlights that smoked look because now they are darker.
That Projector line. now i do have a rainbow effect, I would think that might be from an impercection in the projector lens, or polish i used on the headlight lens on the inside of the lens that used to try to get a scratch out i had made.
And installed
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
lutter94
Well-Known Member
Looks good, but most importantly, hows the light map?
dirtyred11
Active Member
Just BEAUTIFUL is all I can say, nice work man.
g36 monkey
Post Whore
looks sharp dude!
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
This pic was taken with a weird iso setting and low shutter speed. So I looks a little flooded, and I have my fog lights on
As farvas aiming goes, the projector cinches up next to the bucket and fit nice and tight. It doesnt move around at all because the projector is help in place with a lock washer. I just used the factory adjustors to align the head lights. I only had to adjust them upward
lutter94
Well-Known Member
so thats the low beams? Not 100% how they all work, does it have a hi/low? I know my fusion is low beam projectors, and hi is halogens with the projectors still on.......looks great from what I can tell.....
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
There is a flap inside of the projector. Basically, long story short, the flap is control by a magnet and pulls the flap down, which allow more light to shown through.
In this picture, look behind the lens. You should see a curved metal flap connected to a magnetic system. That magnetic system is attached to the lower part of the assemble. With the wiring harness i have from the BIXENON kit, when i hit high beam like normal all the harness basically does is sending a current to a bulb( when i had the 9007 HID's in place) and pulling the bulb back and forth. That motion changes how the bulb reflects off of the optics in the bucket. Now the projectors works in the same manner so-to-speak. Instead of pulling the bulb, it pulls down the metal flap that is blocking part of the light, so it cant pushed through the projector lens. Once the hi-beam is activated the flap goes down and the lens has the full beam pushed through the projector.
In this kit, I am switching from the 9007/9007 HID's from DDM, eBay, ect... and going to the H1 bulbs. The 9007 bixenon HID's have a female and male connector along with the extra plug for the High/Low option. All HID kits that i have experienced with have the EXACT same female and male connector with the same + AND - and each connector. 9007/9006/ h1 h2 blah blah bulbs all plug into the same place. the projector uses the same connetor to plug into the high/low option on the bixenon harness.
Hope these pictures help
https://images.search.yahoo.com/ima...search.yahoo.com&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla
In this picture, look behind the lens. You should see a curved metal flap connected to a magnetic system. That magnetic system is attached to the lower part of the assemble. With the wiring harness i have from the BIXENON kit, when i hit high beam like normal all the harness basically does is sending a current to a bulb( when i had the 9007 HID's in place) and pulling the bulb back and forth. That motion changes how the bulb reflects off of the optics in the bucket. Now the projectors works in the same manner so-to-speak. Instead of pulling the bulb, it pulls down the metal flap that is blocking part of the light, so it cant pushed through the projector lens. Once the hi-beam is activated the flap goes down and the lens has the full beam pushed through the projector.
In this kit, I am switching from the 9007/9007 HID's from DDM, eBay, ect... and going to the H1 bulbs. The 9007 bixenon HID's have a female and male connector along with the extra plug for the High/Low option. All HID kits that i have experienced with have the EXACT same female and male connector with the same + AND - and each connector. 9007/9006/ h1 h2 blah blah bulbs all plug into the same place. the projector uses the same connetor to plug into the high/low option on the bixenon harness.
Hope these pictures help
https://images.search.yahoo.com/ima...search.yahoo.com&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
Yea I did a bad explanation lol
In the kit, per side : there are 2 silicon washers 1 big 1 small, 1 projector cover and 4 screws. There is also a keyed washer, and a log ring. After that, there is a mounting plate that screw into the projector that hold the h1 bulb in place.
Screw to projector cover onto the projector
You take the headlight bucket along with the projector. place the large silicon ring on the back side of the projector and slide the projector and the plug for the projector through the whole on the headlight bucket.
Next take the smaller silicon washer and place it inside of the light socket on the headlight bucket, but on the outside of the projector. (Make sure the plug for the projector does not go through the smaller silicon washer
Next comes the keyed washer. the washer only goes on one way. You should have the side with the two notches on the bottom side of the projector.
Next take the log ring/nut and screw it onto the projector. Try to make a reference on where the flap in the projector is at to help make the flap close to perfectly horizontal. Tighten the ring down. I used a needle nose pliers. but a spanner would work too.
Take the small piece that fits into the projector that lines up with 3 predrilled and tapped hole on the backside of the projector. Thise piece is a bracket that uses a flat spring to hold the bulb in place. (LEVEL THE BULB OUT!)
Make sure your head light is clean of any dust small particals and all. ( 1 you can go two ways after this. place the headlight into your car tempararly to figure out how level the light is. Once you have the light leveled keep the projector and headlight very still and do not move them as you tighten down the washer. 2 the other way is to place the lens for the bucket back on place the light into the oven and press them back on after 15 minutes in the over.)
If you did what i did and removed the whole sealant that was once in there. I went to the auto part store and got some runner butyl, or window tape/sealer. it comes in a role. wear glove with this stuff cause it is sticker and a mess.
Once the sealer tape/ ribbon is on and is good and sealed up. place in over for 10 minutes. pull the light out of the oven and old it together for 5 minutes.
Screw the bracket the holds the bulb back into place. I had to modify the to part of the light socket to allow the bracket to seat perfectly. just trim a tiny bit out of the top. Put the bulb back into the projector and place the spring into place to hold the bulb in.
Place headlight in car, Hook up the lights via the 3 connectors.
Use the factory headlight alignment system.
With the lights on and with the car on a level surface, you want a light colored wall infront of you. I used my neighbors garage door. With the car 20ft. infront of me i aimed and leveled the lights off approximately 2'6". As you move the car forward up toward the flat surface, you do not want that line to move more than 1" from where the line was originally.
In the kit, per side : there are 2 silicon washers 1 big 1 small, 1 projector cover and 4 screws. There is also a keyed washer, and a log ring. After that, there is a mounting plate that screw into the projector that hold the h1 bulb in place.
Screw to projector cover onto the projector
You take the headlight bucket along with the projector. place the large silicon ring on the back side of the projector and slide the projector and the plug for the projector through the whole on the headlight bucket.
Next take the smaller silicon washer and place it inside of the light socket on the headlight bucket, but on the outside of the projector. (Make sure the plug for the projector does not go through the smaller silicon washer
Next comes the keyed washer. the washer only goes on one way. You should have the side with the two notches on the bottom side of the projector.
Next take the log ring/nut and screw it onto the projector. Try to make a reference on where the flap in the projector is at to help make the flap close to perfectly horizontal. Tighten the ring down. I used a needle nose pliers. but a spanner would work too.
Take the small piece that fits into the projector that lines up with 3 predrilled and tapped hole on the backside of the projector. Thise piece is a bracket that uses a flat spring to hold the bulb in place. (LEVEL THE BULB OUT!)
Make sure your head light is clean of any dust small particals and all. ( 1 you can go two ways after this. place the headlight into your car tempararly to figure out how level the light is. Once you have the light leveled keep the projector and headlight very still and do not move them as you tighten down the washer. 2 the other way is to place the lens for the bucket back on place the light into the oven and press them back on after 15 minutes in the over.)
If you did what i did and removed the whole sealant that was once in there. I went to the auto part store and got some runner butyl, or window tape/sealer. it comes in a role. wear glove with this stuff cause it is sticker and a mess.
Once the sealer tape/ ribbon is on and is good and sealed up. place in over for 10 minutes. pull the light out of the oven and old it together for 5 minutes.
Screw the bracket the holds the bulb back into place. I had to modify the to part of the light socket to allow the bracket to seat perfectly. just trim a tiny bit out of the top. Put the bulb back into the projector and place the spring into place to hold the bulb in.
Place headlight in car, Hook up the lights via the 3 connectors.
Use the factory headlight alignment system.
With the lights on and with the car on a level surface, you want a light colored wall infront of you. I used my neighbors garage door. With the car 20ft. infront of me i aimed and leveled the lights off approximately 2'6". As you move the car forward up toward the flat surface, you do not want that line to move more than 1" from where the line was originally.
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Hmm this is interesting. My cousin has a new accord he keeps putting different setups of projectors in. I never really understood the point but looking at them on the stangs I can see why. Looks pretty neat.
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9838stang
Well-Known Member
For headlights, i have these. I am sure you can find these cheaper if you look harder. But these are what i have. They have great optics as is. but i loved the projector look and wanted the projector look and use.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-98-Ford-...998|Model:Mustang&hash=item2c8f74bf95&vxp=mtr
These corner lights
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-94-98-...998|Model:Mustang&hash=item3f4d123f85&vxp=mtr
And this is the projector kit i am using
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-Mini-H1...DIY-/251938317852?hash=item3aa8b1a61c&vxp=mtr
and i am using this harness
http://www.ebay.com/itm/35W-12V-HID...ess-/321185527345?hash=item4ac8263631&vxp=mtr
After you get these items. you need ballasts. All ballast are the same as far as the connector is concerned. I would get 35 watt ballasts. also I got the 4300k and 6000k H1 HID bulbs as well. the projector seems to make the lighting look blub. so i ran 4300k temp bulbs and they looked pretty close to new factory color bulbs.
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Thanks I got my stock lights apart without breaking them and I'm currently using those housings with the clear lens off my aftermarket set. They dont exactly match up but they will do for now. I have one done but waiting on a new cutoff assembly for the other as the solenoid was bad. I went with the miromoto b stock projectors as I thought they might be a little better than the generic ones. That cost me extra now for the replacement cutoff so I guess I didnt really save anything. Oh well, hopefully I can finish it up tonight if the parts come in.
