RyClef331's LSx SWAP Build Thread.

[ryclef331]

Well, here is the start of something beautiful. Nothing much to post here. I'll have pics posted up tommorow of the car's current state. I am slowly but surely selling off the old to make way for the new. For those who don't know, the NEW motor is going to consist of an LQ4 Junkyard motor (thats a 6.0L LS based motor...basically the LS2 from a GTO but with an iron block...good for MO POWA!). Depending on the mileage, I will be at least throwing in ARP Rod Bolts and fly cutting the stock pistons myself. If I get a killer deal on a higher mileage block and money is right, I may just rebuild it with forged rods and pistons on the stock crank. EFI or Carb...its up in the air. I've never done a carb'd car....ever so I may experiment with that. Doing that, I'll need to address the fuel system...and I'm thinking that while i'm at it...why not convert the WHOLE sh'bang to E85?! Again, budget dictating, I'll either slap a plate kit on it and spray the b'gezuz outta it OR turbo it. I think a 6.0L, carb'd, on E85, with a blow through turbo setup would be a pretty killer street combo. Bottom line is I WANT 800 rwhp...but going with an auto and my budget I may "settle" for "around 700." The transmission will be a TH400 with a tran brake (never built an auto or drove one with a trans brake so I think it'll be fun). This whole build is going to be a vast learning experience for me so bear with me and my mistakes as i'm sure they'll be a few with the learning curve I'm taking on. Anyways, look for build pics to come...slowly but surely...they'll come. Keep in mind, I'm working entirely out of a storage unit with NO electricity. So any welding or extreme fab work will be mocked up by me...then taken elsewhere to welded. I'm contemplating buying a small gas generator and a 110v MIG to undertake most of the work myself but I think that manager of U-Store it would frown on me welding in an area with a wood floor... Enough babble...on to the parts.

First purchase to christen the car and get the build underway

Old badges and old paint....note my OLD center caps....haha

new badges....

New AJE K-Member with mounts for SB Chevy/ LS1 ordered today with granetelli tubular arms (on damn backorder!)

Looking for a deal on a front coilover kit SO...if you got any leads....

Pics of the car will come tommorow.

 

[95PGTTech]

You should not need to weld pretty much anything.

The custom stuff for me is:
1. Keep A/C. I need to go to the local "old man" auto parts store that still crimps A/C fittings to get lines made that go from my Ford chassis to LS1 compressor, or find an aftermarket source that does chrome ones.
2. Keep clutch cable. Not an issue with you.

AJE makes a transmission crossmember for that trans.

You could use the truck auto from the motor you pull, those are very stout even in stock form and then you could use all the wiring and ECU for it and just get a tuner.

Unless you want front coilovers, AJE makes MU-1001 spring mounts for stock springs. This is the way I'll be going until I drive a SN95 with coilovers front and rear that doesn't sound like a rickety pile of 1972 shit. The AJE crossmember may lower the front 1/2" due to it being a Fox-based K and not SN95 specific. I have yet to confirm this in my car.

You're going to need your driveshaft cut or a new one made, pretty easy to source, any driveshaft shop should be able to do it for under $100.

You will have to make your own midpipe, there is not currently an aftermarket one available. I suggest Dr. Gas, since it's a modular weld-together unit anyway it will allow you some fab room.

For headers, either Kooks swap headers, or purchase LS1 flanges and Fox LTs and cut and weld, the exhaust should be your only welding of the whole project the rest is nearly direct drop.

 

[BlackCobra50]

FINALLY!!! SUBSCRIBED!! I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE HOW THIS TURNS OUT! INCLUDE EVERY DETAIL RY!!

 

[BlackCobra50]

Here's a set of headers you may want to consider. http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Dynatech&Category_Code=dragaje

 

[BlackCobra50]

You should not need to weld pretty much anything.

The custom stuff for me is:
1. Keep A/C. I need to go to the local "old man" auto parts store that still crimps A/C fittings to get lines made that go from my Ford chassis to LS1 compressor, or find an aftermarket source that does chrome ones.
2. Keep clutch cable. Not an issue with you.

AJE makes a transmission crossmember for that trans.

You could use the truck auto from the motor you pull, those are very stout even in stock form and then you could use all the wiring and ECU for it and just get a tuner.

Unless you want front coilovers, AJE makes MU-1001 spring mounts for stock springs. This is the way I'll be going until I drive a SN95 with coilovers front and rear that doesn't sound like a rickety pile of 1972 ****. The AJE crossmember may lower the front 1/2" due to it being a Fox-based K and not SN95 specific. I have yet to confirm this in my car.

You're going to need your driveshaft cut or a new one made, pretty easy to source, any driveshaft shop should be able to do it for under $100.

You will have to make your own midpipe, there is not currently an aftermarket one available. I suggest Dr. Gas, since it's a modular weld-together unit anyway it will allow you some fab room.

For headers, either Kooks swap headers, or purchase LS1 flanges and Fox LTs and cut and weld, the exhaust should be your only welding of the whole project the rest is nearly direct drop.

When you find out how to make the A/C work with this swap let me know, I'd like to keep my a/c when I do my swap. I don't know if you're going to be able to keep the clutch cable, I'm probably gonna convert to the hydraulic clutch, seems easier.

 

[Dalamar]

haha, nice caps. you should roll them again.

Good luck Ryclif, I'll be interested to watch your progress.

 

[95PGTTech]

You should not need to weld pretty much anything.

The custom stuff for me is:
1. Keep A/C. I need to go to the local "old man" auto parts store that still crimps A/C fittings to get lines made that go from my Ford chassis to LS1 compressor, or find an aftermarket source that does chrome ones.
2. Keep clutch cable. Not an issue with you.

AJE makes a transmission crossmember for that trans.

You could use the truck auto from the motor you pull, those are very stout even in stock form and then you could use all the wiring and ECU for it and just get a tuner.

Unless you want front coilovers, AJE makes MU-1001 spring mounts for stock springs. This is the way I'll be going until I drive a SN95 with coilovers front and rear that doesn't sound like a rickety pile of 1972 ****. The AJE crossmember may lower the front 1/2" due to it being a Fox-based K and not SN95 specific. I have yet to confirm this in my car.

You're going to need your driveshaft cut or a new one made, pretty easy to source, any driveshaft shop should be able to do it for under $100.

You will have to make your own midpipe, there is not currently an aftermarket one available. I suggest Dr. Gas, since it's a modular weld-together unit anyway it will allow you some fab room.

For headers, either Kooks swap headers, or purchase LS1 flanges and Fox LTs and cut and weld, the exhaust should be your only welding of the whole project the rest is nearly direct drop.

When you find out how to make the A/C work with this swap let me know, I'd like to keep my a/c when I do my swap. I don't know if you're going to be able to keep the clutch cable, I'm probably gonna convert to the hydraulic clutch, seems easier.

For the headers, I'm not too hot on dynatech quality, especially when you can have kooks for $100 more http://www.kookscustomheaders.com/category.php?cname=Headers&cid=1&sname=Ford-%20LSX%20in%20a%20Fox%20Body&sid=113&pname=Ford%20LSX%20in%20a%20Fox%20Body&pnid=114 with the correct collector for 1 7/8" tubes - 3.5". The DIY headers can be done for under $100 if you are good with craigslist.

With an aftermarket bellhousing, it should be easy in theory. I already have quadrant, micro-click, and adjustable cable installed. bellhousings like the SFI ones are drilled for all 3 T56 applications - ford, dodge, and chevy - to save on cost. likewise, they have the pivot ball provision for install on 03 cobras. mcleod makes an adjustable pivot ball, and the 98 cobra clutch fork is the same as an 03 cobra.

so all I would need to purchase is aftermarket bellhousing, 03-04 dual disk clutch, flywheel, pilot, and TOB, 26 spline input shaft. if I wanted to do it as cheap as possible I would just need factory 03-04 cobra clutch, flywheel, tob, input shaft.

the only thing I should have to modify is the clutch cable mount. on the 98 cobra, it's a small boss off the back side of the block that's essentially a hole. cable goes through it, then clip goes on. I'm going to weld a tab on the aftermarket bellhousing while it's out of the car, since the LS1 doesn't have such a boss on it. so long as the cable clears the headers and what not (I have long tubes now so I don't forsee it being an issue), it's not too much modification, I love the cable pedal feel.

if you're willing to pay for the A/C stuff, any A/C aftermarket company will do it for you. specify length of hose, fitting size and thread one, size and thread two. think of the guys that put a ls1 in like a 34 studebaker. you only need to change out the line that goes directly into and directly out of the compressor, use the rest of the stock mustang a/c parts.

 

[justinschmidt1]

ha fucka ls1

 

[BlackCobra50]

You should not need to weld pretty much anything.

The custom stuff for me is:
1. Keep A/C. I need to go to the local "old man" auto parts store that still crimps A/C fittings to get lines made that go from my Ford chassis to LS1 compressor, or find an aftermarket source that does chrome ones.
2. Keep clutch cable. Not an issue with you.

AJE makes a transmission crossmember for that trans.

You could use the truck auto from the motor you pull, those are very stout even in stock form and then you could use all the wiring and ECU for it and just get a tuner.

Unless you want front coilovers, AJE makes MU-1001 spring mounts for stock springs. This is the way I'll be going until I drive a SN95 with coilovers front and rear that doesn't sound like a rickety pile of 1972 ****. The AJE crossmember may lower the front 1/2" due to it being a Fox-based K and not SN95 specific. I have yet to confirm this in my car.

You're going to need your driveshaft cut or a new one made, pretty easy to source, any driveshaft shop should be able to do it for under $100.

You will have to make your own midpipe, there is not currently an aftermarket one available. I suggest Dr. Gas, since it's a modular weld-together unit anyway it will allow you some fab room.

For headers, either Kooks swap headers, or purchase LS1 flanges and Fox LTs and cut and weld, the exhaust should be your only welding of the whole project the rest is nearly direct drop.

When you find out how to make the A/C work with this swap let me know, I'd like to keep my a/c when I do my swap. I don't know if you're going to be able to keep the clutch cable, I'm probably gonna convert to the hydraulic clutch, seems easier.

For the headers, I'm not too hot on dynatech quality, especially when you can have kooks for $100 more http://www.kookscustomheaders.com/category.php?cname=Headers&cid=1&sname=Ford-%20LSX%20in%20a%20Fox%20Body&sid=113&pname=Ford%20LSX%20in%20a%20Fox%20Body&pnid=114 with the correct collector for 1 7/8" tubes - 3.5". The DIY headers can be done for under $100 if you are good with craigslist.

With an aftermarket bellhousing, it should be easy in theory. I already have quadrant, micro-click, and adjustable cable installed. bellhousings like the SFI ones are drilled for all 3 T56 applications - ford, dodge, and chevy - to save on cost. likewise, they have the pivot ball provision for install on 03 cobras. mcleod makes an adjustable pivot ball, and the 98 cobra clutch fork is the same as an 03 cobra.

so all I would need to purchase is aftermarket bellhousing, 03-04 dual disk clutch, flywheel, pilot, and TOB, 26 spline input shaft. if I wanted to do it as cheap as possible I would just need factory 03-04 cobra clutch, flywheel, tob, input shaft.

the only thing I should have to modify is the clutch cable mount. on the 98 cobra, it's a small boss off the back side of the block that's essentially a hole. cable goes through it, then clip goes on. I'm going to weld a tab on the aftermarket bellhousing while it's out of the car, since the LS1 doesn't have such a boss on it. so long as the cable clears the headers and what not (I have long tubes now so I don't forsee it being an issue), it's not too much modification, I love the cable pedal feel.

if you're willing to pay for the A/C stuff, any A/C aftermarket company will do it for you. specify length of hose, fitting size and thread one, size and thread two. think of the guys that put a ls1 in like a 34 studebaker. you only need to change out the line that goes directly into and directly out of the compressor, use the rest of the stock mustang a/c parts.

Sounds like you've been doing your homework With you and Ry doing this swap, it's going to help me A LOT when I do mine. I don't know if I'm going to switch to a hydraulic clutch or make the cable work... Have to see which would be easier/cheaper. What have you heard about dynatech's quality? I've heard pretty good things about them, as well as kooks.

 

[95PGTTech]

Supposedly leak, poor fitment, rust over time, Advance Auto Parts sells their line of stuff.
I wanted to keep the cable because if you check LS1tech they have eleven billion threads about hydraulic clutch problems and I don't like the one in my 94 Probe GT - cable took a bit getting used to at first but you have so much more feel where the clutch engages and disengages.

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

GOD DAMNIT STOP CONVERTING!!!!!

 

[ryclef331]

I know about the headers. Problem is, EVEN WITH kooks and everyother "bolt on" header, they're not bolt ons. Most of the cars used as the templates to make them had the build threads on LS1tech and the people after had slightly different parts...usually the steering shaft or rack and ran into interference issues. I'll probably go with a set of shitty mac 351 swappers, LS1 flanges and cut'em up myself..BUT if I go with a turbo, then the headers is a moot point. If it goes turbo...I'm going to have a 4" exhaust dumping right out of the down pipe in front the front tire...and still driving on the street in clean-air communist california! Other wise the exhaust is an easy task.

As for the trans crossmember...I could BUY one for 100+ bucks but...I'd rather make one for a fraction of that and weld it in. I plan on buying a lil 110mig and tacking everything up and then the heavier duty parts I need finished, I'll farm that out to the experts unless I get drunk enough and am feeling "froggy."

The driveshaft I'm aware of. I need to find a shop though that can build me a chrommoly one preferebly...but if I can find one to modify my aluminum FRPP one, I'll go that route.

As for A/C....haha. I haven't had A/C or Heat (its ugly) in it for YEARS. I plan on spinning an alternator and thats it. Electric water pump.

And the coilovers....well....with a 4" open sewer pipe out the front, I doubt I'll hear the coilovers...and I want the weight reduction. I want to drag a bumper eventually.

 

[BlackCobra50]

Supposedly leak, poor fitment, rust over time, Advance Auto Parts sells their line of stuff.
I wanted to keep the cable because if you check LS1tech they have eleven billion threads about hydraulic clutch problems and I don't like the one in my 94 Probe GT - cable took a bit getting used to at first but you have so much more feel where the clutch engages and disengages.

Yea thats true that hydraulic clutches have more problems. How much do you think it'll cost to keep the cable route? I don't know which headers would be the best route... maybe what ry said.

 

[95PGTTech]

Minimum cost:
Lakewood bell = $400
used 03 cobra clutch, flywheel, TOB = $100?
weld a tab (me = free, you = ???)
everything else you already have

Oh, no doubt welding your own is the easiest and definitely the best way to go, I was just pointing out other "direct bolt in" header options. I will be building my own, but I also have the MM solid steering shaft to help with header clearance.




ry...do you have power steering? I'm really interested to see how the LSx fits with a manual 5.0 rack and the 94/95 booster setup. a 5.0 manual setup won't fit in a 96-98 because of the oil pan issues with the 4.6. also, what is the weight difference and the power capability difference of the iron block versus the aluminum block?

 

[BlackCobra50]

You guys aren't keeping your power steering? I want to keep mine. Is there a way to do so?

 

[95PGTTech]

You guys aren't keeping your power steering? I want to keep mine. Is there a way to do so?

don't remove it. you don't need to remove the hydraboost system either (96-98 guys), but it's ugly and I want to go to a 94/95 vaccuum style setup. you're just going to need similar adapter fittings and hoses to adapt the GM power steering pump to the hydraboost or power steering rack supply lines

 

[Hoseitdown]

ha fucka ls1

haha, yeah i LOL'd

 

[Win]

GOD DAMNIT STOP CONVERTING!!!!!

I love a good Ford with the rest of us on here but damn those LS motors are hard to beat for the money and power and durability.

 

[ryclef331]

I'm not running power steering....however, I still have the power rack with the lines hooked together so the fluid just "sloshes" back and forth. Its kinda tough on the street and the feeling isn't "great" but for blasting down the strip, its fine. I've had a couple of scares getting lose in 3rd going through the 1/8th at about 88-90 but its wasn't near out of control by anymeans. If budget allows, I'll be converting to a full manual flaming river set up with a bump steer setup...just for the sexy factor. I love the way a full tubular setup and heim joints for the steering looks and the room it clears up is all the more worthwhile. I want this thing to look naked like my current setup looked. I think the stock shaft and the rag joint in the steering colum contribute alot to the "rubbery" feeling with no power steering.

As for the brake booster clearing an LS1....from ALL the pics I've seen, its not even an issue with the LS motors. I'll be elminating the ABS system as well to get the clusterf**k of tubes and wires outta there as well. About the only thing staying "unchanged" is the rear end...unless I go turbo then the 4.30s gotta go. Even with just motor swap and a cam, 4.30s may prove to be "too much" gear. I'm up in the air if I want to tear into it again since I JUST put them in. I may just go to a taller tire but since I'm probably going to give up overdrive, I may still open it up and swap in 3.55's. I want to still be able to drive it to work on nice days which is 40 miles of california free way so me buzzing 3,500 rpms in the slow lane may get old quick...and if I go turbo, I want to be able to play with high hp supras so I may elect for some more top end charge.

 

[ryclef331]

As for the differences between the aluminum block and iron....The aluminum block and can only be bored so much withouth having to be resleeved. Also its just simple science that dictates, iron is stronger than aluminum. That said though, there have been guys who have acheieved 1000+rwhp levels while maintiaining aluminum blocks (rotating assembly obviously not stock). Both have 6 bolt mains....yes 6 bolt. The LS motors have a very "deep" skirt at the base of the block which takes up what would be the oil pan area on most "normal" v8 motors. The BIGGEST reason for going with an iron block 6.0 as opposed to the LS2 aluminum version is cost. Its just plain cheaper....MUCH cheaper to find a wrecked chevy truck, van, hummber h2, escalade, etc and get the motor out of that as opposed to a high hp GTO or vette. The heads are essentially the same (317 casting) as an LS6 head with the biggest difference being a larger chamber on the truck heads to allow for a lower compression ratio. Alot of salvage yards focus on the vehicle they come out of (Vette, Camaro, Trans Am, GTO, etc) and price them accordingly. The 6.0L in an Escalade (the LQ9) is rated at 345hp....mill the heads to bump the compression ratio, put in an LS6 cam (you can buy'em for 50 bucks) and you have a 400hp iron block LS2 for a fraction of the cost of one you would have purchased out of a goat or vette. The weight difference is estimated at like 80 to 100lbs. Its probably not THAT much but when you're swapping out an iron block 5.0L...you won't miss the weight reduction.