So I was given this 1995 Continental...

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rustang68

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You’ve been here a total of 11 hours and made 3 post and already made your mind up that this forum is a waste of time???

Let’s step back for a minute.

1) you asked question about a fwd continental motor on a mustang forum. People are having fun with you, learn to go with the flow and you’ll find the help is here.

2) yes it’s a cobra block with cobra heads. The intake and motor mounts will not work. You’d still need some other parts to make it drop in but it is completely doable.

3) learn to take things with a grain of salt and learn to listen when advice is given. Everyone here has good knowledge about mustangs. Any question you could have about an actual mustang can be answered here and probably has at least 10 times already.

Now that we’ve covered those items let’s try this a different way. See if you can get pics of the car and motor as the old man asked. We can help you move forward but need more info.


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You’ve been here a total of 11 hours and made 3 post and already made your mind up that this forum is a waste of time???

Let’s step back for a minute.

1) you asked question about a fwd continental motor on a mustang forum. People are having fun with you, learn to go with the flow and you’ll find the help is here.

2) yes it’s a cobra block with cobra heads. The intake and motor mounts will not work. You’d still need some other parts to make it drop in but it is completely doable.

3) learn to take things with a grain of salt and learn to listen when advice is given. Everyone here has good knowledge about mustangs. Any question you could have about an actual mustang can be answered here and probably has at least 10 times already.

Now that we’ve covered those items let’s try this a different way. See if you can get pics of the car and motor as the old man asked. We can help you move forward but need more info.


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Yeah sorry. But when the first and only replies I read were jump it, drive it, what was I to think? I should have refreshed the thread before I called the forum a waste of time because I included your comments amongst what set me off, which I shouldn't have.

At any rate, if I understand you correctly, you're saying the numbers are saying the block should be the same as the mark 8, but the difference is in the motor mounts? Was the difference you were refereeing to in the mark 8 and the continental the head design? thanks for the info, btw. It is appreciated
 
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rustang68

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My reply was meant as do what you want but drive it, do a compression test and leak down, throw a can of your favorite cleaner inside and clean all the junk out, makes things leak and clunk before you commit to anything. I have been burned before because it "ran good".
I already have the car. My buddy literally trailered it to my house and dropped it off. It was his car and it ran fine up until the day the transmission went out of it. The trans is screwed and the brakes don't work so I can't drive it lol. But he put most of the miles on the car and he's meticulous. The trans went and the body was starting to go.
 

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https://fordcobraengines.com/ford-modular-motor-differences/

Scroll down to engine block code. Same v code as the mark8. Scroll down a little more and it talks about the tumble ports


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Sorry evil, its bad info. I like that you are trying to help tho. Your best attribute!

Modular history info coming.....

Lincolns got the dohc 4v 4.6l first. Cobra was the last. Lincoln and first gen cobra both got the B series head castings. Lincoln B heads have under cut valve guides, needing out of production valve seals....however....simple solution is to have a machine shop swap the valve guides out for the updated versions used in every other modular head.

Lincolns got a reduced performance cam to match the reduced performance intake manifold, mostly set up for drivable torque and fuel milage. Cobra got the higher performance cam and intake manifold.

Lincolns got 6 bolt cast cranks, cobra got the forged 8bolt crank.

Pistons were the same dimension wise, but the lincoln may have gotten a heavier version where added materials aiding in bore support to reduce noise. Still the same hyputectic tho.

Conrods were the same, but if my memory serves me right, the earliest lincolns were pressed wrist pin rods like the early F-series truck did in 97. But i could be recalling early 2v engines with the 5.0l bell housing pattern, cause im thinking lincoln got the better engineering over the plain ol'ford models.

Lincoln got the 2v oil pump, cobra got the high output 4v oil pump.

Lincoln got a normal water pump, cobra got the high output.

Lincoln untill mid 97 all got the straight valve springs. Cobra started with the high performance conical valve springs along with the known cobra cams. Either valve spring can work in either head.

The car its self is worth driving...in my opinion. If the car only needs little to bring it to road worthy and its not rusted out or banged up, it would be a fun driver!

Forgot to add, the fwd blocks mounting points are different and the bellhousing is half of what a normal rwd block is. This is due to a much smaller tranny for packaging reasons.

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rustang68

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The car its self is worth driving...in my opinion. If the car only needs little to bring it to road worthy and its not rusted out or banged up, it would be a fun driver!


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Sadly, the car is too far gone. Needs a trans, car currently has no brakes (one rear caliper is literally gone lol), and too many PA winters have ruined the frame. Meanwhile I have a 96 GT convert that is solid, straight, is really a blast to drive, but I'd like to have more power than the 215 hp can give me....so free Lincoln...4v heads...initially it seemed like a good idea lol
 

lwarrior1016

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The first big piece to the puzzle that you would have to find is the custom machined adapter plate to bolt to the block and adapt a modular transmission to it. If you can’t find that adapter, hang up the whole project.

Next thing would be the valve seals that black was talking about, getting the work done to those heads wouldn’t be cheap and you have to tear down the engine anyway.

If you want a closer to drop in 4v swap and you want to do it cheap, go find an engine out of a Mark 8. You can get those engines super cheap most of the time.
 

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That’s odd. I found a few threads on other forums where people were actually doing the swap. That’s how I found that website.

Maybe they were doing the custom work themselves and not documenting very well


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lwarrior1016

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That’s odd. I found a few threads on other forums where people were actually doing the swap. That’s how I found that website.

Maybe they were doing the custom work themselves and not documenting very well


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There used to be a guy on Corral that was selling those adapters. @ScottyDsntKnow did this swap in his steeda new edge if I’m not mistaken. It can be done just takes some custom work.
 

evilcw311

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Glad we could be of service.

Definitely read that thread white posted. The guy documents a lot of stuff while he was doing his conversion.


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rustang68

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Glad we could be of service.

Definitely read that thread white posted. The guy documents a lot of stuff while he was doing his conversion.


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Will do. All the info is much appreciated!!!
 

96blak54

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Im glad you stopped in and asked! I figured all that useless knowledge up in my head would never be let out ever again. Thank you!

But hold on now...you just cant leave. You gotta show us the mustang!

Start a build thread over in the member section and post pics of the car. Pics of parts you buy. Pics of whatever you do!

Their are plenty of forums out there were you can do build threads but none have the character of the sn95forums. We all are knuckle heads and enthusiasts of the body style and platform. Hopefully you are too! You seem to be a cool dude! So keep in touch!

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evilcw311

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Definitely start a build thread and update it regularly. Ask questions, drink beers, post Smokey burnout videos!!!!


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rustang68

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Here's a picture of the old gal. It's really solid and straight but the clearcoat's peeling off of it. A previous owner put on the SVT rims and stiffer springs. It's a blast to take around corners. I also have 3 other Fords. A 68 Mustang I used to race in the NMCA, a 67 stang that was my first car, and current project is a 69 Torino GT that was my brothers. 351C and toploader 4 speed. Just got it inspected last Friday...first time in 20 years since it's been on the road!10-18-16 1061.jpg
 

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ALL THEM FORDS AND YOU HOLDING OUT!

The mustang looks good!

My 96 clear coat peeled too. I paint prepped and rattle canned it bronze. Its far from show quality but doesnt look as bad.

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Here's a picture of the old gal. It's really solid and straight but the clearcoat's peeling off of it. A previous owner put on the SVT rims and stiffer springs. It's a blast to take around corners. I also have 3 other Fords. A 68 Mustang I used to race in the NMCA, a 67 stang that was my first car, and current project is a 69 Torino GT that was my brothers. 351C and toploader 4 speed. Just got it inspected last Friday...first time in 20 years since it's been on the road!View attachment 1424
Nice! And to think you almost left this forum before getting to know us motley Mustang folk!
 

art331

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And I have a 96 GT with the stock 4.6. I'm told the Lincoln motor is basically the same motor that was in the cobras. The motor is low miles and sounds great. I need to get this old Lincoln out of my driveway so I'm pulling the engine to save it for my GT. Is there anything beside the engine I should save from the Lincoln for this swap?
I had that year Lincoln. It is a great motor and can be a great car. As folks have commented it would not be any sort of a direct swap. Here is my suggestion and what I wish that I had done. The achilles heel of that Continental is the airbag suspension. There are several great kits to convert it to a normal shock/spring setup. WORTH THE MONEY!!!!!! Fix up the Lincoln and enjoy it. It is a legit 300 hp cruiser. Paint it gloss black (like mine was), put some steely wheels on it and enjoy the JBL stereo. Everyone who rides in it will be impressed.
 

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