Stalling/Cutting out problem?

[wannaboost94gt]

So my car is a pain in the ass :bootyshake:, I recently had a 347 put in my stang and have had problems ever since. I fixed the problem of the car just dying by replacing the ignition module. And now there seems to be a new problem I'll be driving down the road after driving it for a while and it will kinda cut out then the rpms will drop and come back to normal? :BangHead: Any ideas? I am so fed up of dealing with this car since the swap, I am loosing faith in the car because it's such a headache it makes me want to sell it. :crybaby2:

 

[CC'S95GT]

dizzy?

 

[wannaboost94gt]

Just replaced it, as well as the coil and plugs. Maybe the fuel filter is clogged, is that a possibility?

 

[toyman]

I assume you still are using the stock PCM. Have you checked for any trouble codes? This needs to be done to try to narrow the focus of many possible causes. Replacing the fuel filter is probably a good idea especially if you don't know when it was last changed. Clogged cats are also a possibility.

 

[CC'S95GT]

Just replaced it, as well as the coil and plugs. Maybe the fuel filter is clogged, is that a possibility?

it's not unhead of to get a bad remanned dizzy. (happened to me once) and MSD isn't very reliable either

 

[wannaboost94gt]

I haven't pulled codes since this started to happen but I did before to fix the dying problem and it was 212, I shall pull them again and post if there are any, I don't have cats, and I replced the fuel filter like 2 years ago but shall do so again. Anybody else got an idea?

 

[wannaboost94gt]

Any one eles wanna pipe in? :sleepy1:

 

[Wayne]

95 mustang 5.0 ignition check

A. Ignition coil check.

1. disconect all wires from coil check resistance of primary side {LOW VOLTAGE SIDE} should be from 0.8 ohms to 1.6 ohms if not replace coil.

2. check between negitive primary and secondary temanial {spark wire termanial} should be from 7.7 ohms to 10.5 ohms if not replace coil.

3. check between primary and ground it should be about 10 meg ohms to ground. if not replace coil.

4. with switch on engine off check for 12 volts on primary positive connector red/light green wire if not check circuit. Repair as needed.


B. Ignition module and stator check.

Note: before any other checks unplug ignition module , check ignition module connector ground. The black/light blue wire. Should be less the 5 ohms between it and the neg battery ground. Repair as needed.

1. check for power to ignition module. Termanal 4 red/light green wire. Switch on engine off.
12 volts if not, Repair circuit as needed. If good next step.

2. check for power to stator at distributor red/green wire. Switch on engine off.
12 volts if not Repair as needed. If good next step.

3. Reconect both connectors check for PIP signal with LED test light. Dark green wire terminal #1 on ignition module. back probe wire while someone else cranks engine and watch for LED flashes. If no flashes replace stator. If you have a PIP signal and everything else checks good but you get no fire from coil replace ignition module.
Note: you can check for a SPOUT signal but that would be a case where the car runs but only at base timing.

 

[1bad95]

im with desertcox. i got a bad reman dizzy too. went to ford and bought a new oem one next. i got a reman here on hand tho just in case anything happens again.