Starting issue

[matholland]

This does it when cold and warm. I thought that it might have been the IAC, and I had already cleaned it in the past, so I bought a new one and put it on...well it is still doing it. I thought that it was just after the head and intake swap that this had started happening but I remembered...

Whenever I used to deliver pizzas, I remember when you first started it maybe 1 out of 50 starts it didnt start right, and idled real rough until you drove it down the rd, then it was fine. It basically does the same thing, but now it will start, then die...unless you give it gas, go down the rd like a block, then its fine?

MAF is clean, new IAC, TPS voltage I adjusted a while back, so it should still be good. What else could it be?

 

[Mrstangerbanger]

Have you ever replaced the pick up in the distributor ?

My car had a starting problem and did the same shit and it turned out to be the pickup in the distributor...

 

[CC'S95GT]

Did you ck the TPS for smooth operation when you ck'd the voltage?
The TPS is a rheostat and can develope flat/dead spots over time.
Place your multimeter on OHMS and connect to the TPS then SLOWLY move the it through it's full motion.
Watch the ohm reading increase/decrease and look for the meter to jump or fall off then jump back up.
The ohm reading should consistantly increase/decrease as it's turned.
An analog meter is better for this test but a digital can be used

 

[matholland]

I have both meters. I will check that out later. Funny to mention the distributor, because its making noises, and I haven't been driving it because of that...also my lifters are ticking, so I am going to take the valve cover off and retorque them. I am going to get a new distributor and if that doesn't work I will probably order a new TPS.

 

[matholland]

Well NEW problems arise...after pulling my distributor, putting in the new one, it now cuts out, and runs like crap...timing is set at 12* base timing, and I tried 10* as well...still has starting problem...

cuts out bad when you get on it, wont rev past 4 grand?? wtf?? distributor is stabbed right, did it twice even..

 

[toyman]

Perhaps a bad or fouled plug. Changed them or the wires lately? Bad rotor or cracked cap could also be a cause.

 

[CC'S95GT]

did you ck timing with the spout out?
recheck your firing order.

 

[matholland]

firing order is fine... it was running, i took the cap off the old distro, put the new one in, took spout out set it at 12*, and it cuts out..new plugs and wires, cap and rotor are fairly new

 

[CC'S95GT]

bad maf and/or coil can cause it to cut out.

 

[toyman]

Are you saying it won't run with the spout out or with spout out and timing @ 12*? What timing are you seeing when it's running with spout out? BTW new plugs doesn't mean that one isn't or wasn't cracked during the install. Just saying not to take anything for granted or dismiss it because it's new or nearly new.

 

[matholland]

im saying that it starts, it idles..spout out and set to 12*, put spout in..take it down the rd and stomp on it and it wont rev past 4 grand and pops like hell all the way there..

as far as the plugs go...i never took the plugs off the cap when i went to change my rotor...just took the cap off, layed it aside..i dont get why it ran fine before and wont now....it still idles rougher than hell and has ever since its got back together.

 

[modo]

put the old distributor in to see if it goes away. issue sounds to be timing / firing order related

also for the hard start issue make sure your battery, starter, grounds are good. eec won't fire the motor unless a specific rpm is reached. i do not remember it exactly but i believe its close to 400. if the battery is weak or you have a faulty ground the rpms could be at the threshold

 

[matholland]

UPDATE....I was using a snap on scanner, looking at live data...it showed my timing, my buddy was with me and he pulled the spout connector and it didn't go down to base timing still showed around 20ish *, i took off down the rd without the spout and it ran fine.

You put the spout connecter back in...problem arises again..its running hot, i imagine because base timing is set too high now..what gives?

 

[toyman]

The timing is advanced to far BTC. Just use a timing light and set it at 10 with the spout out.

 

[matholland]

thing is i set it to 12* with the spout out. seems like everyone is settin it between 12 and 14...before i took my old distributor out, it was set to 12...thats with the spout out.

What I am getting at is when you take the spout out, and look at the live data it still shows over 20*, and if you give it gas, it advances....thats with the spout out...its like its in but its not..

I will try to go down to 10, but i have already tried 10* timing...will try it again.

 

[modo]

the scanner will show whatever the computer thinks the timing is not what it actually is. all the spout does is stop the computer from advancing the timing. if you pull the spout and it runs fine your timing is not at the base you think it is

.02

 

[matholland]

Alright I will look and check the timing again and see if that changes anything and let you guys know. Thanks for the help. What do you guys think my starting issue is?

 

[matholland]

Well, pulled my spout just to check again...looking at the 0* mark on the balancer..set the snap on timing light to 10, and i was 1 degree off it was set at 11....put it at 10 and bam same thing...it is advancing it when i put the spout in because i checked it with the timing light..its advancing it to around 20 at idle.

 

[matholland]

anyone? I am trying to get this car running because my other car is going to the shop for some warranty work, and I really need the stang going.

 

[modo]

anyone? I am trying to get this car running because my other car is going to the shop for some warranty work, and I really need the stang going.

dont fart around with the knob. put a line @ 10 and leave the knob on zero or use a standard light. i never trust the adjustable lights regardless of who makes it