Starting to buy parts, need advice.

Dugzy33

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Found this add near me...

http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/4026812353.html

Was thinking of buying the elbow and the throttle body.
This is my first sn95 mustang and I plan on getting a gt40/explorer intake and gt40 heads in the future.
Probably a mild cam. the ford E is the mild one right?
So I figure I will start getting the parts as I find them.

Opinions?
List of thing I should consider buying?
Thanks,
Doug
 

Nightmare

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Well, how you start modding is up to you, however I would go right for the most bang for the buck first: Gears. After that how you go about it is up to you.

To answer your question, a e303 is a rather mild cam, gives you good lope with out the cost of idle. I had one on my 93 gt.
 

CC'S95GT

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steeda 19 and trickflow stage 1 are also good cams for a direct swap.
You'll also need the adapter elbow and possibly 24lb injectors. may as well replace the timing chain and gears too. water pump if it's old.
 

ttocs

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trickflow and steeda are supposed to be an easy swap but I know just as many people that needed a tune after putting it in as didn't. A quick search on ebay and you can find elbows for right around that price he has so its not such an amazing deal that I would rush out to get it. go check it out and bring a $50 with you, no more(ok maybe take another $10 in case) and then its worth the time/trouble. The valve covers are stamped crap and tend to leak much easier then a machined set.
 
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Dugzy33

Dugzy33

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trickflow and steeda are supposed to be an easy swap but I know just as many people that needed a tune after putting it in as didn't. A quick search on ebay and you can find elbows for right around that price he has so its not such an amazing deal that I would rush out to get it. go check it out and bring a $50 with you, no more(ok maybe take another $10 in case) and then its worth the time/trouble. The valve covers are stamped crap and tend to leak much easier then a machined set.

The guy wants 85 for the elbow and the TB.
That seems good. The TB is Over 200 new and the elbow is like 100 new right?
 

OnyxCobra

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the guy must be a little slow because he took a pic of the bottom of the TB, the sticker is usually on the top side of it so he must have removed it and reapplied it to the bottom.

if it's actually a satin 75mm PP TB you're lookin around 180 new, and honestly 75mm is rather large for your plans. That elbow is probably over 100 new having the trickflow name on it, either way $85 is pretty cheap for both assuming they're in decent condition.
 

ttocs

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I have no idea what the price is new on them. When I compare prices on used equipment though I check to see what I can get the same part used for say from ebay for example. Personally I just hate the elbow and have never priced them because of it I just got a 94 cobra intake instead.
 

CC'S95GT

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I had forgot about vlv springs till you mentioned it.
The stock exploder springs on the P heads will need to be changed out too.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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There is nothing wrong with your stock 60mm TB, you will not gain anything by going to that one. You'll actually lose some low end. Also the E cam will make the 94/95 computer go nucking futs with the 110 LSA on that thing. I'd save your money honestly. Do:

-Gears
-FULL exhaust
-Shifter
-Subframes
-Suspension
-Wheels/tires

And then either supercharge the stock motor or swap in a clean set of GT40s/GT40 intake with the stock cam and supercharger that. Make sure you use ARP studs and a good HG. This will take you to 400+whp for very little money compared to a full tilt HCI or stroker etc...
 
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Dugzy33

Dugzy33

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There is nothing wrong with your stock 60mm TB, you will not gain anything by going to that one. You'll actually lose some low end. Also the E cam will make the 94/95 computer go nucking futs with the 110 LSA on that thing. I'd save your money honestly. Do:

-Gears
-FULL exhaust
-Shifter
-Subframes
-Suspension
-Wheels/tires

And then either supercharge the stock motor or swap in a clean set of GT40s/GT40 intake with the stock cam and supercharger that. Make sure you use ARP studs and a good HG. This will take you to 400+whp for very little money compared to a full tilt HCI or stroker etc...


Thanks for all the help everyone.
I bought the TB and Elbow for 80.
I should have mentioned that I bought the car with...

1995 Opal Frost GTS (Crank windows, no defrost, etc)

Steeda Triax shifter
18x9/18x10 saleen wheels with 275front 295rear potenza's (both brand new with receipt 1600 worth)
Lowering springs
All new exhaust from stock headers back. (dont know why the stock headers or still on? I will get headers soon)

So what I plan on doing today is looking for a set of gt40 heads. ( I dont want p's)
gt40 intake from explorer.
And then put those items on the car.
So elbow, 75mmTB (just cause it was cheap)
GT40 intake.

Then drive it!

Next headers, gears.

Then decide on new short block to build up in my garage while driving her.

The car drives nice and is very clean inside and out so my wife and I both enjoy driving it.
It was taken well care of before we bought it.
Plus it has 03 terminator leather interior and a nice aftermarket stereo with JL subs.
Nice all around cruising car that sounds great and drive just as well.
Anyway what do you all think of my plan?
Anything you would change?
I like the power adder idea, but have weighed the cost on that one.
I can get a good built shortblock for 2500.

Thanks, Doug


here is a thread with pics of her...

http://www.sn95forums.com/showthread.php?58734-I-m-New-and-so-is-my-GT-S


(Since those photos I have installed new clear headlights and cornerlights, and rear vertical tail lights.)
 

CC'S95GT

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great looking car.
As far as the engine list, don't forget to ad replacement vlv springs, roller rockers, 24lb injectors, and a cam while your in there. your HP will go from 215 - almost 300
I personally prefer the horizontal tail lights better.
 
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Dugzy33

Dugzy33

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great looking car.
As far as the engine list, don't forget to ad replacement vlv springs, roller rockers, 24lb injectors, and a cam while your in there. your HP will go from 215 - almost 300


I am not going to go with the P heads, Don't want to mess with headers issues
I read that the gt40 heads don't require diff valve springs with stock cam. ?
So will I need the 24lb injectors with the gt40 head/intake combo?
What is 110 LSA?
Since I have the TB already I will probably try both and see which "feels" good to me.
75 seems too big to me also. I just couldn't pass up the deal.



I personally prefer the horizontal tail lights better.


I go back and forth on that too... I still have them and will probably keep em.
Sometimes I get tired of people think I have a 4.6
 

CC'S95GT

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LSA is Lob Seperation Angle.


I've never heard anyone that has kept the vlv springs when the heads came from an exploder.
From my understanding, the mustangs rev higher and the springs will float during the higher RPM's if you keep the exploder springs on any of the GT40/ GT40P heads.
 

mcglsr2

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I would replace the springs. ~$100 for peace of mind on that is well worth it IMO.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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Explorer valve springs will float. Period. TFS springs are $100 and take all of 30 minutes to install if that. Why ppl skimp on stuff like this simply baffles me.
 
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Dugzy33

Dugzy33

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Well no gt40 heads and intake around here for reasonable prices as yet so I bought these for starters...


6201_2011.jpg


8227.jpg


8874_full.jpg

86629_8.2mm_t-volt_blue_sb_chevy_race_fit.jpg



I will get the gt40 intake and heads when I find what I want.
I'm a little picky. so I'll wait till the right parts come available or I can get them at a pick a part.
I wont be doing any power adders on this motor so I figured the msd 6a was good enough.
I got the box, coil and wiring adapter for 211.00 shipped.
The plug wires from another site for 57.00 shipped
All new. I think a decent deal.
 

Addermk2

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Spend the money and get aftermarket upgrade springs. Might as well swap in a camshaft while you're at it. A cam swapped GT-40 combo can easily make 250-275 at the wheels when tuned.
 

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